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Discussion Starter #1
The wire broke in driver's side window regulator of my GTV last week. As the break was at one of the window clamps, I was able to repair it by clamping both ends under the one clamp. But the wire is very tight and think that I am living on borrowed time with it.

A couple of years ago, I read of someone's bad experiences with replacement regulators from one of the well known suppliers. I think that the wire was the wrong length.

I would like to hear from folks who have bought and installed regulators recently so that I know where to make my purchase. Please PM me if you have had bad experiences that you do not want to broadcast to all the Alfa world.

Thanks.

Ed Prytherch, Columbia SC
74 GTV
79 Spider
88 Verde
 

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Mine is broke too - same spot. I refuse to buy a new one, so I removed it, put in new felt and channels, then bought 12 feet of 1/16" stainless steel aircraft cable and a bag of aluminum ferrules. I made a drawing of the routing and how the cable wrapped around the pulleys before I removed it. I plan to create the same length cable, run it through the holes on the pulley, and crimp on a ferrule to hold it. This is the true essence of owning an old car - a week to rebuild the window regulator. By the way, the window is now scratched from the bad felt chrome strip. Does anyone know if I can polish it someshow to eliminate some of it? Wish me luck! I wish I had the $60 to replace the vent window rubber (per side) - too much wind noise. These are available on a site from England that I found on Google (vent window rubber seal, I think). These seem to be disappearing - one guy told me to just lube up the old one and live with it!
By the way, you know - you can adjust the tension on the cable by loosening the nuts on the regulator and moving it accordingly (the handle stays in the same place as you make these adjustments).
 

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Window Regulator

Quick question on the subject of window regulators...Is there a way to tighten or another quick fix when you roll up or down, but the window doesn't move, but the cable spools up...It's like the cable isn't even attached to the window-I'm at a loss because I can't see too much inside the door panel of my spider to see exactly what is going on. I just see the cable moving while I'm cranking and OCCASSIONALY the window will comply-but most often not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The cable is not endless. The two ends are captive in the spooling drum.

If the cable moves but not the window, then the cable may be loose in the clamps on the bottom of the glass. You should be able to see what is happening when you remove the door panel.

I bought replacement vent window seals from either Highwood Alfa or Alfaholics - can't remember which one as I have done a lot of business with both of them. They eventually go hard and do not seal.

Ed Prytherch
 

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cable window winders

That cable is a PITA, I spent a good few hours sorting mine out.

Mine had broken before I bought the car, I cut the ends back until they were neat & not unwinding. I then used a new piece of cable, which I spliced into the system by using simple electrical connectors - those brass-in-black-plastic jobs with the 2 screws. I threaded the end of the original cable through by about 2", then the new cable from the opposite direction, also with a 2" tail out the other side.

The electrical connector was then tightened to hold the ends together. I did this on both ends of the broken cable & with Dad lifting the window, I made sure that the cable routing was correct & the new "splice" didn't foul anywhere.

The electrical connectors are too weak to hold the cables on their own, so once I'd established that the cable was now the right length, I then opened up each 2" tail, (think of each side as a "Y" shape now), I then wrapped tinned copper wire around the electrical connector & in between the cable & the tail, I then changed direction with the tinned copper wire & wound it around the entire join, from one end to the other. (same idea as wrapping a wiring harness with electrical tape). I then used a large soldering iron & soldered the whole lot, trying not to melt the plastic part of the connector too much.

Seeing as I'd opened up the ends of the cables in the "Y" shape, wrapped wire between them then closed them down & wrapped & soldered them together, the electrical connector could not slip over the 'lumps' at either end, so was now secure.

Luckily my break did not require either "repair" to go over one of those little plastic wheels in the door. I sprayed lubricant into all the wheels before assembling the doors.

The cable has a finite number of winds on the drum in either direction & correct positioning of the window on the cable is vital to ensure that when wound one way, the window is fully down & the other way it is fully up. They are also "handed" left & right.

The window regulator has 3 mounting bolts in slotted holes & the regulator can be swiveled around to take up slack in the cable. Just loosen the 3 x 6mm nuts & shift the regulator & re-tighten the nuts.

Simple really, but a real [email protected] & really needs 2 people & lots of time & patience. I used an intact cable winder door from a donor 1750 GTV to work off......... of course my broken cable winder was of the opposite side - naturally & that donor door was a mechanical winder <sigh> :rolleyes:

My repair lasted for 15 years then I sold the car, sorry but I have no pictures of the repair - dark ages before digital & I never thought to snap with a normal camera.

Window & door rubbers - trust me, spend the $$ & get new ones - try the UK suppliers, they are excellent quality & I replace all of mine on all my cars as a rule, when restoring a car - it is nice when the doors actually seal & so do the windows - it drops the road noise by about a third...

Hope this helps.

Ciao
Greig
Sunny South Africa

9 Alfa's remaining, all with mechanical window mechanisms.....:D
 

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Thanks, I opened up cardisc and seen what was going on in the drawing, so apparantly all I need to do is crank the window all the way down and then push it all the way down and tighten the two clamps attached on the bottom. Seems too easy! Thanks!
 

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Yes, it sounds too easy, once you've slackened the clamps & wound the cable all the way down, then pushed the window all the way down - fuzzy memory tells me that you can't access one or both of the clamps to tighten the screws as they are now behind the door inner skin.

I seem to recall that I marked the cable with a permanent marker on either side of the clamps, then raised the window up a bit by hand & wound the mechanism until the marker lines were on either side of the clamps........

It was a tedious process, but the windows worked perfectly afterwards.
Try not to let the window drop into the door too far - it hurts when you get your fingers trapped... guess how I know.

One of the local Alfisti has the entire mechanism drawn out on his garage wall, he refuses to paint that wall as he says the day he paints over the info, that will be the day the cable snaps.

On the subject of windows, once you have fixed the mechanism, then follow the thick chrome front chanel into the door & at the bottom you will find a nut perpendicular to the line of the door - this is the adjustment to get the windows to seal at the top of the doors - it shifts the entire window angle relative to the body - on a GTV anyway, but the Spider should be similar.

Ciao
Greig
 

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Thanks, I'll keep that all in mind! I was just getting ready to go out and get it done, I also have new brakes to install and a trunk cable-nothing like snapping a cable that lets you into storage! I had been hoping that Napa would have sent off my water pump by now, but no such luck-I've recieved, by mistake, a new water pump for 91-94 2.0L, but I needed the 90 pump-she's leaking pretty bad through the shaft seal gasket, so I've been filling it up with straight distilled water, but it is getting really cold here in a hurry:-( Anyways, I had hoped to fix all of those little things this weekend.
 

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I had both right and left regulators fail on me in 1,5 years the last one only recently. Bought new ones from Alfaholics , lubed them up - perfect!
Mind you the installation is not easy and it'll be handy to have another person around -
 

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I tightened up the clamps on the lower window, problem is solved, no new parts necessary-thank you guys-so much!
 

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No Easy Way!!!

Having had so many children driving Alfetta sedans (and my wife besides) in the 80's I know well that if a cable breaks in the window raising or lowering process mechanish one can always put in another cable. But, whatever you do, don't fooliishly take BOTH windows out and forget which way (i.e. clockwise on driver or vice versa) the window crank was to turn to put the window up. And it does make a difference, and there is both a right side and a left side difference of the drums which wind up the cables on one part and let it out on the other. So, just keep at it. Have a nice beer. Do it on a sunny day (if only) and take a break once in a while. The blood on your hands from the inside of the doors does not really get too messy unless you get lots of grease on it too. And, oh yes, by all means do lubricate the mechanism so you might not to have to do it too often. But, my friends, there is NO EASY WAY but trial and error. Lots of both!!!
 

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'74 GTV window regulator and future rust restoration

You are right ... I can tell, a man of experience with cable window regulators. I had fun doing it - one mistake, back apart, final assembly and ... presto! Perfect. That's what Alfas are for. Pity those who have professionals do it for them. More recently, I laid in the street for an afternoon putting in a "Magnaflow" exhaust. Again - fired up great, nice steam initially coming out of the now-louder and bigger-bore tip. It sounds like a sports car now and I would highly recommend it. However, sadly, it does not have an Alfa sound anymore! As nice a system as it was, and as free-flowing at high revs, I had a local custom muffler shop put in an OEM system from ANSA. Now I can hear the timing belt, the cam, and the cacauphony of moving parts in the engine again ... plus I have a better low-end torque curve (felt, albiet not documented). My car is pretty mechanically sound now, and quite stock - a few drips of oil here and there, but I wouldn't have it any other way. I loved the 70's and still do! My next project is to have some rust restoration done around the bottom panels and the driver's door. It's OK for awhile, but the bubbles have begun. I am thinking of looking up a person in the SF Bay area who has done it before, but I also have a local friend. Any suggestions?
 

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I've fixed this problem 2times both doors - TO REPAIR A BROKEN REGULATOR DOESN'T WORTH IT- it's a lot of work especially when working alone, a ***** of a situation , go get a new one -Alfaholics, Highwood, Alfa Classic Alfa - mind you they are not cheap BUT you save a lot of work for a stupid stupid problem. I always make a joke with my Alfa friends how it's easier to rebuild the engine than fix the window regulator.
 

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I just spent a few hours replacing my '74 GTV regulator, and I think I can add a tip to the vast store of previously-posted experiences: Before you attempt to install, clamp the new regulator in a vise and run the loop of cable thru another pulley (that you just happen to have laying around...). Use the extra pulley to put some tension on the cable and put the handle on the reg. This allows you to work it "up and down" several times to sort the cable on the drum, work the kinks out of the cable from shipment, and lubricate the gear mechanism. I found installation itself pretty straightforward, but had serious issues with the regulator I got from Centerline. They didn't send new nuts, and the old ones fit VERY tight on the new studs. So tight in fact that the studs spun in their mountings and I spent most of the time trying to get vise-grips on to tighten them. I did not have the nuts cross-threaded, but wound up grinding off the nuts to remove the new winder, pressed out the studs and used 1/4-20 hex bolts & locknuts to finally get the new unit installed. I'll drive the car for a few weeks with the door inner panel removed to see if the cable takes an initial stretch- I won't be surprised if it does...
 

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The slots in the door where the 3 regulator bolts go, are to allow you to take up any slack / stretch, by loosening the nuts & rotating the mechanism.

Actually it was originally to allow "Luigi" to do the job.

Good plan on waiting to re-fit the inner panel.........

Ciao
Greig
 
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