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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Doing my first timing belt on a GTV6. First timing belt on anything for that matter having always owned 4-cyl Alfas.

Alfa factory shop manual calls to remove the spark plugs. Not a big deal to do, but not sure why I need to. Seems better to leave them in so nothing falls down there.

Why do I need to remove them? Just to verify piston position later down the line? In that case I can just remove plug #1 when the time comes.

Just curious and wondering if I am missing something.
 

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After the timing belt is finished, you need to rotate the engine by hand at least 2 revolutions to ensure nothing is caught up and the timing is correct. It makes it a lot easier to rotate the engine.
 

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Also, if you leave them in, when you have it set to TDC there will be compression which will try to move the crank backwards and make it difficult to keep it steady.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ah, of course...I should've been able to figure that one out myself. Duh. Thanks for clarifying.

On a related note the manual says to "push the car" while in 5th. It's hard to push a car in a garage. ;-) As an alternative, I've seen folks on the BB talk about turning the crank itself. Or I imagine you could even jack up the rear and rotate the wheels while in 5th.

Are all those perfectly fine approaches? I know this engine gets particularly unhappy when it moves backwards even a little bit, so want to use the "safest" yet easiest approach to rotation.

Thanks.
 

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With the spark plugs out you should be able to rotate the engine with little drama and yes, you should rotate only in the direction the engine normally turns when running. If you go to far, just rotate 2 more revolutions and make sure the crank and the number 1 valve is on TDC.
 

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Again, I'm not to experienced with the 2.5, but on a 3L if you rotate the engine backwards you stand a chance of jumping the timing belt.
 

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BEFORE you remove the belt, you need to have the crank, cams, and distributor all lined-up. Ever try doing that with the spark plugs in? The turn the rear wheels is the same as pushing the car. I don't see how one can be in the rear of the vehicle while observing the crank pointer in front.

Get yourself a a big socket wrench or breaker bar and suitable socket to fit the crank and keep this a one-man operation. I not only remove the spark plugs, I remove the valve covers as well (and you gotta remove the plugs to do that).

Also, to tell that #1 is at TDC, you need to insert something like a chopstick into the hole. Once everything is lined-up, THEN go about removing the belt. THAT way it's all set for the new one (just be cogniscente of the distributor drive - it's easy to move and get the rotor out of alignment while installing the new belt.
 

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I was nervous too the first time I changed the belt. It really is no big deal. Once you have the new belt on turn the engine like 10 times by hand and recheck for lined up timing marks. If everything is still lined up, you're gold!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all this. I am digging in deeper today, so this is all well timed (pun intended ;-).

Yeah I am a bit nervous doing this the first time, or cautious at least. I am not used to doing jobs where if I blow it I can't just go re-do it to fix it. This one comes with a penalty for being wrong. Go slow, check everything, get good advice, and all will be fine.
 

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The other part to this is of course, the de-tensioner. You can get all the above correct and blow the tensioning... It's happened a thousand times.
 

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If you follow this you won't have any problems

As long as you don't put too much force on the tensioner while you are adjusting it you're fine. See the Caution under number 1.
 

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