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Discussion Starter #1
What the number 6 fuse 7.5 Ampere
It's keeps blowning :mad:
I think it the parkers . :confused: The only lights not working are the R/rear driver side taillight and the
Left parker " help me please"
 

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fuse 6 circuitry

Fuse 6 is labeled as Front Left and Right Rear Side Lights (parking lights), nothing else, so your symptoms are correct.

Does it blow instantly? Or intermittently? What happens just before it blows? In a glass fuse it is easier. If simply overloaded the filament melts and the inside of the glass is clean. If shorted the filament often explodes and covers the inside of the glass tube with blobs of metal and lots of carbon.

Any clue from your blown fuse(s)?

I have attached a pdf of the wiring schematic for the 75's Electrical system, side lights (parking lights), stop lights, and rear fog lights. I don't know which country it is from but it is in English. I don't think it shows the side lights in the Milano's bumpers.

I have highlighted the circuitry for fuse 6 in yellow. I think the wire is actually yellow (G = giallo, right?)

If you remove fuse 6 and connect a 12v lamp across the terminals the bulb will light if enough current is being drawn. Unplug/disconnect stuff and the lamp will go out when there is no current being drawn through it.

hth,

Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter #3
86spider ,
Thank you very much thats awesome.
So the fuse blows as soon as I turn on the lights. i was thinking might be short in the yellow wire but not sure where to start looking.

I have checked the right low beam relay near the battery, that is ok
I had found that some turkey put the foglight plug on the earth nere the battery.
 

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The right low beam should be on fuse # 10.

The fog lights should be fuse #1

Don't be tempted to put a higher rated fuse in the holder. See the thread "my sedan is dead"

I would start by dividing the system in half, or sections.

Disconnect connector "A" in the figure, at the ARC. It has been a long time since I've been into a Milano/75. I don't remember how hard it is to get behind.

But if you can separate the circuit there you will now know if the short is before the ARC or in/after the ARC.

If fuse blows, short is between the fuse and the connector "A"

If fuse holds with this disconnected, disconnect "C" and "F".

Reconnect "A", if fuse blows, short is in ARC.

If fuse holds, connect "C". If fuse blows, short is in wiring to Right Rear light.

Separate that into sections, Disconnect G73a (right rear light connector) or unplug rear light assembly.......... repeat for each section.

If fuse holds, Connect "F".

Disconnect the front left light connector(s) repeat above steps

You can connect a lamp across the open fuse holder contacts, or get a box of fuses.

The inverse law of fuses on hand determines how fast you will isolate the problem. Lots of fuses on hand and you will find the problem in short order, haha. Only one fuse on hand and it will immediately fail. And each time you return from the store with less than the critical number of fuses, you will always need one more.

Doing it this way in just a few steps you should be able to isolate which section of the car the short is in and then you can take just that section of car apart rather than starting at one end and working your way through the whole car to the other end to find the problem.

good luck,

Wayne
 

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corrosion has finally set in across the positive and negative. usually in the plug in or the actual bulb holder itself. I'd be checking the bulb holder. I've seen it there the most.
Unplug all your corner lights and plug them in one at a time. that should help narrow it down
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yes spider,
It's got me puzzled , it still blows with no lights or ARC plugged in ?
and a new combo switch ?

can you think of anything else PLEASE
 

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sound like the wire going from the fuse box to the light switch might be shorted some where. see if the bundle going along the wheel to the light switch out under the dash have any worn spots. the next thing would be to unplug the the light switch and see if clears it.
 

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If you go back to the diagram I sent in post # 2 you will see that fuse 6 is connected to connector H terminal 5. From there it goes to the ARC connector A terminal 4. Everything happens after that, so if the fuse is blowing with the ARC disconnected then the problem lies in the wire between the fuse holder and the connector to the ARC.

If you can remove connector H at the fuse holder and it still blows then it is in the fuse holder somehow.

Is there some additional wiring, either factory that I don't see on my diagram or added by someone?

Have you made a test lamp to replace the fuse with?
 

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86spider - very nice fault tree analysis in post #2.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi ,
Are the relays interchangeable for low and hight beam with 5 pins that's what it seem's
to be ,I unpluged the light's fr and back and disconnected the ARC and still the fuse poped .
So i pulled out the 3 relays on the right side of the car tune the light on pop
( two small metal one's & the big black one)
I would like put new relays in, can i use any Bosch 5 pin relay "say 30A".
You see i only have one new one from than a 33 not a 75/milano.
 

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Hi ,
Are the relays interchangeable for low and hight beam with 5 pins that's what it seem's
to be ,I unpluged the light's fr and back and disconnected the ARC and still the fuse poped .
So i pulled out the 3 relays on the right side of the car tune the light on pop
( two small metal one's & the big black one)
I would like put new relays in, can i use any Bosch 5 pin relay "say 30A".
You see i only have one new one from than a 33 not a 75/milano.
I actually just fixed my headlight relays this weekend and they were all the same. Not sure if it's different down under, but I was able to just use all the same relays (Bosch 4045 I believe?)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
HAHAHA well I have fixed the parker light's .
Funny story, it not a little imbarrasing - Tonight i went to replace the cigarette lighter into the back of the console and went to fit the only loose wire tothe light which was grey and black and it did not work. So I looked down to see the yellow wire fitted to the handbrake switch, it must have been like that since the prev owner. So I removed the yellow wire and conencted it to the cigarette lighter and replaced number 6 fuse and low and behold - Every thing worked!

Both front and back lights now work fine.

wife is very happy, thanks to everyone for their advice.

cheers
 
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