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Discussion Starter #1
Gents which dipstick are you using with your twinspark motor in your spider or GTV
Logic would say use the old longer one with the batwing sump.
But you could use the shorter one to give greater spare oil capacity, but may suffer oil thrashing at the rear shallow end of the sump.
You thoughts please.
Regards to all CrashMcT
 

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I checked both and it looked like they had the same depth. Try them both and check the depth vs the oil pump pickup.

Regards,
Lawrence
 

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With all of the variances in dip-stick lengths and oil-pans between the earlier cars and the later cars, 1300, 1600, 1750, 2000, TS etc - my suggestion; drain the oil, fill with the specified amount, inset any dipstick and re-mark it!

Even on the V6 cars and 24 valve conversions (especially when using an Accusump - fill it - don't start it - remark the dipstick.) Start it and fill to level after initial running!
 

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Wouldn't that lead to an overfilled engine? The camboxes and filter carry quite a bit of oil and they always seems to be filled when I check my oil level...
 

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Do you top up your oil to the full mark when neccisary?

That doesn't overfill it does it?

Oil change quanities are based on sump oil and filter, then there's an extra number that's used after a teardown and rebuild, as what lays in the cam galleys stays there for almost all eternity until you all but tip the engine over to let it pour out. (as in rebuild)

It simply 'refreshes' itself by new stuff splashing up in as carried by the chain, then it flows back a bit through the drains or timing chest, but there is always a small volume there.

In other words, putting the correct quantity in the sump will get the correct quantity in the engine regardless of the cam galleys, unless they were deliberately drained by some method, in which case you'd have to add more yet. (though I'd reccomend cranking it til the gauge read pressure, then letting it sit about 15 minutes while the oil resettles before marking the dipstick)
 

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Do you top up your oil to the full mark when neccisary?

That doesn't overfill it does it?

Oil change quanities are based on sump oil and filter, then there's an extra number that's used after a teardown and rebuild, as what lays in the cam galleys stays there for almost all eternity until you all but tip the engine over to let it pour out. (as in rebuild)

It simply 'refreshes' itself by new stuff splashing up in as carried by the chain, then it flows back a bit through the drains or timing chest, but there is always a small volume there.

In other words, putting the correct quantity in the sump will get the correct quantity in the engine regardless of the cam galleys, unless they were deliberately drained by some method, in which case you'd have to add more yet. (though I'd reccomend cranking it til the gauge read pressure, then letting it sit about 15 minutes while the oil resettles before marking the dipstick)
Ok, as the original post was about a TS engine with a 105 sump I was assuming that the engine was being rebuilt or at least fully drained for the Nord->TS swap. Guess assumption is the mother of all... :rolleyes:

BTW, depending on in what papers you look the stated volume of oil is not nessesarily the amount you use for a change. I have for instance NEVER been able to fill 7.8 quarts into any 116/162 Nord/TS engine, the level is always at MAX way before that. Not even after a rebuild.
Not a good idea to over-fill the sump with oil...
 

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My practical experience on changing the oil in the 105/115 nord is 7qts to start with and then add about 1/2qt once run for the oil filter, the other 3/10 might be in the cam troughs? Don't you use Imperial (english) qts in europe, a larger unit of measure. In the US, as suggested, I'd add at least 7qts to the dry engine (bat-wing sump) wait a while and mark the dipstick
 

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Imperial units are only used in a few countries still. ;)

We use liters, very close to a US quart though. 0.973 or something. I do know how to convert my measurements though and it's still nowhere near 7.8 quarts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Come on guys back to the original question: 1600 Nord sump fitted with twin spark motor above. It runs fine on the short stick. Although the longer original stick would give the original quantity. Unless you have done the conversion your not really in a position to answer! I have a full set of manuals for both models & can read a manual. Im after other twin spark converters experience !
 
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