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Discussion Starter #1
I will shortly be having the floors patched up on my GTJ (Minor rust issues do not warrant new pans!) and have consequently stripped the floors and bulkhead of all sound deadening material (Ex bitumin layer on transmission tunnel....needless extra work I think.)

I have removed the Tacho as it is not working and needs repairing......UK based recommendations welcome.

What else would be worthy cleaning/checking whilst the interior is bare ?
I do not have storage so it needs to be done on a rolling basis.....tinkering at the weekend, perhaps left over night but then back in the garage Sunday PM.

I may have a look at the heater box as the fan whines at times, I think it may be catching on something in the housing.

All electrics seem to work with the exception of dull instrument lamps so as much as I can completely remove the dash I'm not sure it's worth the hassle.

Any advice, thoughts previous experience welcome.

Cheers
 

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It's worth checking around the screw holes under the black undercoating on the transmission tunnel for rust. The screws that hold on the trim were driven straight into the steel without any follow up.

For what it's worth, the black stuff chips off super easily with a paint scraper if you "freeze" it first with a bag of dry ice (CO2) pellets. Wear gloves obviously.





Much easier to check it now with a bit of preventative maintenance than have to replace it with another good one later....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have just received a quote back from Speedy cables, awaiting one other.

How do you use the ice pellets to strip the transmission tunnel (Sorry if that is a dumb question.

Cheers.
 

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I may have a look at the heater box as the fan whines at times, I think it may be catching on something in the housing.
You may have a dry leaf or some other debris in there. But you also may have worn/dry bushings in the motor. Easiest fix is a replacement motor.

All electrics seem to work with the exception of dull instrument lamps so as much as I can completely remove the dash I'm not sure it's worth the hassle.
No need to remove the whole dash just to address dull lamps. Just replacing the bulbs may make a difference. Improving the ground connections may help as well.
 

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I have just received a quote back from Speedy cables, awaiting one other.

How do you use the ice pellets to strip the transmission tunnel (Sorry if that is a dumb question.

Cheers.
You buy a scoop (kilo'ish) of dry ice pellets from your local purveyor of ice. They will normally put it in a plastic shopping bag and then double wrap in paper. I then remove paper and double bag the ice with another shopping bag (in case it splits). Then simply place it on the tunnel or wherever you want to remove 'stuff' for a few minutes and chip/scrap away.

Works a treat, a second go with the ice usually gets you to bare metal or primer.
Or you can clean up with thinners or your carb degreaser of choice. I prefer to avoid the fumes.

This floor was done with just 1 bag of ice and a 1" paint scraper. Picture taken before I finished the inside right edge. The discolouration in the centre of the floor is surface rust that was UNDER the factory black crap, no obvious cracks (or screw holes).



What do the corners of the rear floors look like where they join the rear kick panel .. and how 'clean' is the rear kick panel?
 

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I may have a look at the heater box as the fan whines at times, I think it may be catching on something in the housing.
Cheers
Hi Robin,

Definitely take the heater box apart. Mine was choc-a-bloc full of old leaves and crap. Also good opportunity to clean the small radiator. Also replaced all of the nuts and bolts with stainless items.

Cheers,
Wazza.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I assume I need to drain the cooling system to take the box out. Can the removal and replacement be done in a day ? At this time of year it's getting a little damp in the UK and I'd like to keep it garaged as much as possible. If not I guess I'll refer to the BBC Weather centre and hope for the best.

The floors are in mostly good shape and solid. Keith Spencely at MGS coachworks advised that the floors really do not need replacing so I'm saving the extra expenditure. The front foot wells have been patched before as both holes are filled in. I think a leaky windscreen in both bottom corners and lack of membrane behind both door cards are the cause. Hopefully once those are resolved leaks should (Mostly) be a thing of the past !
 

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I assume I need to drain the cooling system to take the box out. Can the removal and replacement be done in a day ?
No, if you haven't done this before it's unlikely you will be able to remove the hoses, cables, bolts (from underneath!) and other wiring/air tubing then reco the motor and refit - in an day.

I'd allow two days to remove (tight, dark upside down, new), two to recondition (something will break) and day to refit (new experience)

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I may just try to remove the motor/fan grease up and then clean out the bottom tray as a starter and see if am comfortable doing a more thorough job after that's done.
 

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I assume I need to drain the cooling system to take the box out. Can the removal and replacement be done in a day ? At this time of year it's getting a little damp in the UK and I'd like to keep it garaged as much as possible. If not I guess I'll refer to the BBC Weather centre and hope for the best.

The floors are in mostly good shape and solid. Keith Spencely at MGS coachworks advised that the floors really do not need replacing so I'm saving the extra expenditure. The front foot wells have been patched before as both holes are filled in. I think a leaky windscreen in both bottom corners and lack of membrane behind both door cards are the cause. Hopefully once those are resolved leaks should (Mostly) be a thing of the past !
Hi Robin,

I assumed that you had removed the dash when you said the interior is stripped. If that is the case then removing the heater box is a piece of cake. The heater unit itself is a very simple piece of kit and pulling it apart and putting it back together is pretty straight forward. You can use a clamp on the inlet hose before disconnecting so that you don't have to completely drain the cooling system.

While you've got the floors stripped bare, I would definitely recommend a coat or two of POR15 or similar, and then a layer of Dynamat before installing the felt/carpet.
Photo shows interior stripped before heater box removal.
Cheers,
Wazza
 

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