Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While I've got the front suspension apart for new bushings and ball joints, thought I'd clean it up and paint it. I wasn't planning to take the trouble to have the pieces powder coated. (I'd have to ship it somewhere).

Is Rust-Oleum (primer and enamel) O.K. ?

Cheers,
Jeff
 

·
Registered
1965 Giulia TI/1998 Spider
Joined
·
3,938 Posts

·
Richard Jemison
Joined
·
8,026 Posts
Paint

You need something tougher than plain Rustoleum. If you are trying to keep it simple, Rustoleum makes a one part epoxy paint available in Black that is called "Appliance" paint that is much more durable. It comes in a spray can as well. It can be bought at Home Depot. Takes a while to harden but far better for that application than normal enamal spray paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
867 Posts
I have a wire brush disk that attaches to my angle grinder. You will need this as the old paint is thick and hard also removes all the rust.

Rich
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
410 Posts
I second the Rustoleum appliance epoxy. Used it on my rear axle and it's pretty tough. Give it 24 hours to cure fully first. Cheaper than POR. Also, if you have doubts that you got all the surface rust, use a rust converting primer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Some excellent suggestions. I am going to look into some of these options
Thanks all.

Rich, I'm jealous of how nice yours looks !

Cheers,
Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,166 Posts
Hi Jeff,

I removed the old paint, then i used Por-15 Metal Ready and then Black Por-15, looks good.

Rich
Looks like the right combo IMO. "Regular" paint unless the car is driven infrequently won't hold up in appearance very long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,155 Posts
If you're not a concours fanatic, regular paint is too brittle to resist stone chips. I wouldn't even use powder coating on the A-arms, trailing arms etc. Mine were sand blasted, coated in Rustoleum primer, then treated to two coats of Wurth black stone chip underbody paint, sprayed on with a schutz gun - leaving a week's interval in between coats. This stuff is much more flexible and thus durable. Four years and 7,000 miles later they still look good as new.

Alex.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
896 Posts
I used caprotech rx5 & rx10. cleaned the parts with a wire brush on an angle grinder. afterwards the look like new!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
867 Posts
Jeff,

Just remember the only part i had sand blasted was the bottom A plate and the trailing arms, it was just to dangerous to do it the grinder due to the position and lack of room to get the correct angle.

Rich
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
While I've got the front suspension apart for new bushings and ball joints, thought I'd clean it up and paint it. I wasn't planning to take the trouble to have the pieces powder coated. (I'd have to ship it somewhere).

Is Rust-Oleum (primer and enamel) O.K. ?

Cheers,
Jeff
I am considering using VHT epoxy paint on my suspension rebuild, although with all these excellent suggestions, I'll be looking at all these new (to me) options.

High Temp 250F - 350 F High Temp 250F - 350 F VHT Roll Bar & Chassis Paint VHT Roll Bar & Chassis Paint Gloss Black - VHT Paint

(I am also planning on rebuilding/repainting suspension parts and the such.)

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out (I'll need all the tips I can get.)

Cheers,

enrique
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,873 Posts
I am considering using VHT epoxy paint on my suspension rebuild, although with all these excellent suggestions, I'll be looking at all these new (to me) options.

High Temp 250F - 350 F High Temp 250F - 350 F VHT Roll Bar & Chassis Paint VHT Roll Bar & Chassis Paint Gloss Black - VHT Paint

(I am also planning on rebuilding/repainting suspension parts and the such.)

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out (I'll need all the tips I can get.)

Cheers,

enrique
VHT WORKS WELL. I also like some of the Eastwood products (Eastwood Company: Auto Tools, Body Repair, Classic Car Restoration, House of Kolor Paint, Powder Coating) as well.

Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
496 Posts
POR-15 is NOT UV resistant. If you don't top coat POR-15 you will be repainting in a few years. Even on the underside of the car it breaks down over time, first trning a bit yellowish on the surface and then becoming somewhat brittle. Having to buy their special top-coats raises the price even further. And if you don't use it all at once it eventually (in a few months) destroys what's left of itself in the can (solidifies). I reverted to buying the 6 packs of little cans they sell because I could never use enough not to end up with 25% of it being wasted sitting in the can (even sealed with a bag like they recommend).

Eastwood's products on the other hand paint just as nicely (I've switched completely from POR-15), don't require topcoating, and appear to hold up well. The 1750 GTV is getting the Eastwood treatment.

On the cheaper end of things, I did some of the suspension of my GTV6 with Rustoleum's 'rusty metal primer' after just wirebrushing them, then topcoating with Rustoleum black. That held up amazingly well and was cheap. Depends on what you want to spend in time vs money, etc. Personally I'm kind of fed up with POR-15.

In one of the British rags (Practical Classics maybe? Or Classics?) they did a comparison recently of rust-sealing paints available in the UK. POR did not fare as well as you'd hope.

Karl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
496 Posts
Ok I dug up the article on undercoatings. It followed the rustproofing article which I can't find. This one is Practical Classics from April 2007 (so recent was a bit of a stretch).

They did not test regular POR-15 with a POR top-coat. They tested POR's Chassis Coat Black and Black Cote. Black Cote got a 10/20 and Chassis Coat Black got a 9/20. Their top pick for underbody paint was a product called Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic 121 with a score of 16/20. Here's what they said:

"
Quantity: 1 litre.
Overpaintable: yes.
Type of Coating: Primer/Standalone coating
This one scooped an award in last month's rustproofing primers test. And that's the beauty of Epoxy Mastic 121, which can be used as a standalone coating, or you can overcoat it with a more conventional product.

Nothing touches this stuff as far as rustproofing goes. The gravelometer and salt spray chamber caused just a couple of rust spots, but it is rather expensive compared with what else is on offer. "

They provide this UK phone number: 01775 630958

I found it here: Rust proofing products for automotive, marine and industrial applications

Sounds like a pain to apply due to the two part nature of it. I'm not endorsing it, just passing on the info in the hope that it helps someone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, it looks like there are some more interesting options to look at.
A couple of parts are back-ordered at Centerline for my suspension rebuild, so I've got some time. (hope that sounded like a better excuse than laziness...)
I did not know about POR-15's vulnerability to UV.
Karmat, that Mastic 121 looks very interesting. Its not cheap, but considering the time and $ invested in a suspension rebuild, its a small part of the total. I'm going to search for a U.S. distributor.

Cheers,
Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
496 Posts
Yeah that stuff is not cheap, but it sounds like pretty much the most rust-resistant thing you can buy. Sounds like you better have all your parts ready to paint at once with that two part system, though, as long term storage is not an option. :)

If you do find a distributor here, please post it, I'd be interested in checking it out, too.

Karl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
One last question. Are these hard epoxy type paints O.K. to use on the springs, or will constant flexing crack/flake them ?

Cheers,
Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
496 Posts
Good question, Jeff. I don't know for sure. I suspect the amount of actual deflection in the springs is not as much as you might think and that the paint will be fine. This stone-chip resistant stuff has to be pretty flexible to work well.

Karl
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top