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Discussion Starter #1
New to working on my alfa. I've got a problem with the coil discharging. I'm trying to find the connection from negative of coil to points breaker but not seeing it. Anyone know a good diagram or images to help?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I followed it to a cable/harness off the coil but then can't see where it comes back around anywhere. From what I had been reading I expected a connection back to the distributor assembly but don't see any.
 

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Use a voltage meter with an audible tweet when it makes a good connection. :) Yes, negative side to the points. You didn't say what car your working on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1982 spider veloce. series 2a.

Meter on coil shows 12+v when grounded to block. Nothing when grounded to negative of the coil. This makes me think the points breaker is open/bad. But I need to find it/connection to trace it. I checked the distributor but don't see any electronic mods (a couple owners before me and not good info on what was done). But I don't see the connection from the coil electrical to the distributor.
 

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Not an expert in this vintage but isn't the '82 model the first Bosch EFI? If so there are no points or electronic trigger on the distributor. That would be handled by a crank position sensor and the ECU.
 

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My point exactly!
Hence the USA version question. Some Euro cars still had points in 1982 (I think).
 

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Grounding points on the chassis are essential for good electrical conductivity in and on an Alfa Romeo. Get yourself a can of DeOxit D5, some steel wool or brass brushes and start there. One of them could be your likely culprit.
Also check the cleanliness of the sensors that plug into the bell housing. They could be covered with crud from dirt and oil from the bell housing. There should be a way to check to see if they are in good condition electrically.
The collective wisdom of this board is amazing.
 

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xander;5762905...Any suggestions why I'd see what looks like an open across the primary coil circuit?...[/QUOTE said:
Regardless of whether you have points or an ECU you should not have an open circuit across the coil primary circuit at any time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok. So I've been working on tracking this down for a while now. I've checked cleaned the ground in the trunk, the ones near the manifold, and the braid cable on the bell housing. All good and clean now. Battery is new/charged and tested both off and during starting and levels look right (12.3+, 10+). I had the ECU bench checked OK. And cleaned the harness and contacts. Still no spark (with new coil, cleaned contacts, etc).

I measured voltage at harness during starting and it at looks about right. Fuses are good (replaced all). So I'm thinking that the ECU isn't firing the coil despite the ECU itself being ok, powered, etc.

I checked the resistance on the flywheel sensors. One reads fine (~950 Ohms) but the other I get no reading on at all. Before I go through replacing that I thought I'd double check here and see what folks thought.

Anything easier to eliminate? Does that sound like a reasonable next step?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So bad sensor replaced but still no joy. Measuring power at ECU harness again during cranking voltage looks threshold/low. Wondering if I can splice or provide an alternate supply to see if I can ensure ECU is up and live during crank. Any suggestions for where I can supply from?
 
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