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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys - I want to replace these two relays found where the fuel pump fuse is located on my 1982 Spyder. I need to get two new ones to sort out a starting problem. Could you please let me know an internet site where they are available and their part number? Thanks.

 

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1966-2013
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The small metal one is the same as used on the horn, power windows and the pair on the right inner fender if the car is AC equipped so can be swapped out of the main fusebox or the off the fender for testing puposes.

Commonly available through most parts counters, but make sure that the terminal designations are the same or you'll have a 'only half works' sort of scenario to deal with.
(lotta folks think a relay is a relay and just grab the first one they see)

The big one, not so easy to find, and not inexpensive at all.
Certainly nothing you'd want to throw at a car simply for testing purposes unless you were absolutely certain was the likely culprit.

Part # is the 10 digit sequence right there on the side of the big relay and top of the small one.
If wherever doesn't sell Bosch, they have a cross reference guide to convert to whatever brand they are selling.
*Relays are a 'get what you pay for' item. If it's not Bosch, (see also Tyco) or perhaps Sepia, then you really don't know what to expect.

Query:
When you turn the key from 'off' to 'on', do you hear the fuel pumps run for like 1/2 a second or so?

If yes, then the drive relay (the big one) is working.
If no, then go through all fuel pump wiring, put in a new fuse, check the inertia switch if present for function, or continuity through the bypass if its not. There's a few other things to check/inspect/test before even thinking about that drive relay.

Like an ECU or ICU, you don't just swap it out without mucho assurance that its the issue because it simply is not cost effective to do so.

A couple more questions:
Do you have at minimum 10.3~10.5 volts at the battery during cranking? (low voltage = no ECU)
Are the flywheel sensors functional and connected correctly? (dysfunction = no spark, incorrect hookup = WAY wrong timing)
Do the pumps function steadily during cranking? (start bypass circut)
Have you been through the L-Jet diagnostics information as found via the link in my and others signature blocks?
 

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relays rarely fail. They are more reliable than most electrical devices. Diagnose your problem properly before you start changing stuff out.
 

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Ciao Tifosi,

I note that the drive relay in the picture is a Bosch 0 280 230 001
in past posts, if I remember correctly, you have given the number 0 282 300 001
Can you confirm the Bosch #
Best regards, Elio
 

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1966-2013
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One has terminals 31, 31b, 87, 50, 30, 15 while the other has terminals 31, 30, 50, 15, 87b, 87, 1

Transition occured sometime late 86~87~ish.
IIRC, the one that doesn't have the #1 and #87b terminals is fitted to the later versions.
Something to do with inertia switch wiring or the like, but I don't recall the specifics right at this moment.
However, they both function the same and I 'think' they are interchangable.

I vaguely recall papajam saying explination words about it at one point in time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys. The problem started due to an intermittent start issue. Leave it for a week and the spider will not fire up. The battery will not hold a charge either. I changed the fuel pump earlier because that had failed. I think it may be a combination of issues. I noted that my fuel gauge is no longer working either. I am slowly working my way back. Perhaps I should replace the inline fuel pump or clean it up a bit also.
 

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1966-2013
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Check the sending unit wiring in general, including the ground wire while you're there, then with key on earth the gauge sender wire to the chassis to see if the gauge pins itself at max (pic of wires on sender in FAQ at the top of this subsection)

The 'in-line' pump is the main pump and that which supplies all the pressure and vast majority of volume to the rail.
The in-tank pump is not much more than a siphone/feeder pump to ensure that the main pump has a sufficient supply of fuel. (if there's enough gas in the tank the main pump alone can run the engine without the in-tank pump, but the in-tank pump cannot run the engine without the main pump)

Intermittant start issue/battery won't hold charge.
Go back to post #2 and see info about neccisary voltage levels during cranking.
 

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I have a the same type of problem-My 85 runs perfect for 60 seconds then starts missing and backfiring then stalls -If I wait a couple of minutes it will start again and do the same thing.
I changed -Cap & Rotor, outside Fuel pump,
Plugs, fuel filter
Ignition coil
SAME PROBLEM
 

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Blinky, it seems to me that you could have a vacuum air leak problem.

Dominic
P.S. I still have this sad feeling when I see a thread with a post from Tifosi.
 
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