Wheel Stud Help

loosemoose17 said:

I think the whole hub needs to come off, correct? Will this ruin the wheel bearing in the process?

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I'm afraid so, if I recall correctly And yes, taking the hub apart will destroy the bearing.
Jes

Oh goody, can't wait. Do you recommend taking it to the local Alfa shop to have it done? I've replaced wheel bearings and hubs etc on other cars before (subarus, GTVs, Spiders), but never on a transaxle car, so I'm not sure how big of a difference it is or how much more challenging it is to do.

Thanks.

loosemoose17 said:

Oh goody, can't wait. Do you recommend taking it to the local Alfa shop to have it done? I've replaced wheel bearings and hubs etc on other cars before (subarus, GTVs, Spiders), but never on a transaxle car, so I'm not sure how big of a difference it is or how much more challenging it is to do.
Thanks.

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It can be quite challenging, particular without the special tools. Just the initial nut (after the cover and cutter pin) is tightened to almost 200 ft-lbs and requires a heavy duty impact gun. On top of that, there are a couple of special tools that will make it doable. Without those it is an uphill battle. I would suggest to get a quote from your local Alfa shop, or arm yourself with patience and persistence...
Jes

I have the special tool for replacing the bearings but not the one for the locking ring.
I replaced the bearings on that car a few years ago so the bearing races should come out without too much trouble. The ones that I removed were stuck and needed a long soak with PB Blaster before they would budge.
I will lend you the tool if you want to borrow it. I would plan to sacrifice the locking ring and screw in a new one - then you don't need a special tool.
I can't remember if that wheel is on the left or right side. You don't have to be concerned with left hand threads if it is the right side.

If you just want to get it through inspection, then the broken stud is long enough to get a lug nut on.

Hi Matt,
Here is another option:
I have a set of studded snow tires mounted on steel rims that you can have for free. There will be plenty of stud showing to get a lug nut on. The catch is the wheels are in Colorado and you would have to pay for shipping.

Ed,
I'm going to contact the Alfa guy near me later today and see how much he wants to do it. If he's too much, I think I'll take you up on your offer about the special tool.
How much do you think shipping would be for the studded snow tires?

Thanks,
Matt

I don't know how much it would cost to ship them by UPS or FedEx. Maybe someone has an approximate weight for a steel wheel & tire, then we could do a calculation. I would think that Greyhound would ship them for less than $100. They are in my son's apartment in Fort Collins. I doubt that he has a means of weighing them but I will ask him.

Greyhound shipping would be about $150 for 4 wheels and tires.

If that wheel bearing was just done it shoudn't be too bad to get apart. You can tap the lock ring out, and a new one in after replacing stud and wheel bearing. You may still need an impact gun to get the "big" nut out (if it was properly torqued to spec), or a breaker bar with some form of extension for leverage. Of course, tapping the lock ring in will not allow you to tighten it to specified torque. You also need a torque wrench that goes to 200 ft-lbs to do the final nut. I always tighten things to the torque specs provided in the manual, but some probably don't care a bit.

As Ed hinted at, watch out that on one side of the car the lock ring is reverse threaded.

Jes

It is the right side, so that means it is counter clockwise off right?
I was just trying to get off the outside nut and that is quite difficult. Even with the parking break on the axle just spun and I couldn't get it off. I'll try doing it with someone inside the car pushing on the brakes this evening, as I presume that will help.

Going from memory: The big nut is regular threaded both sides. The lock ring is reversed threaded on the left side, and regular threaded on the right side. I think that is how it is, i.e. think of it as driving the wheels will tighten the lock ring regardless of side and you should have the answer.
Jes

Hi Matt,
The cost of shipping the wheels and tires to you by FedEx ground is about $122.

Ed

Wheel stud

You do not have to pull anything apart to change a wheel stud on a Milano/GTV6/Alferra rear.
Simply position the broken one at a position where it clears the deDion tube and hammer it out. The new one can be pulled in with the nut.

Richard,
Are you sure that applies to a verde (which has the emitting whel for the ABS on the back of the hub)? Somehow I seem to recall it interfers with the studs going out the back. Maybe I recall incorrectly... Anyway, OP should be able to verify that himself easily.
Jes

Ed,
I'll get back to you on the wheels, give me another week or so.

Richard,
It looks like there's a metal plate behind the hub (ABS thing Jes is talking about?) that has like little grooves cut in it. I'll try getting the stud out the way you suggested tomorrow, but I recall that metal disk being in the way

Jes, I think you are right. I'll try to get a picture up tomorrow, for reference's sake in case anyone uses this thread in the future.

Thanks for the help.
Matt

Oh, and does anybody know what size the stud knurl is? Serpent Autosports sells new studs, but neither I nor Charlie know whether it is a 12mm knurl or a 14mm knurl.