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Discussion Starter #1
hi all,

my power steering fluid keeps on overflowing. everytime i top it up to full and after a drive it will all flow out from the top, and drop below the minimum level again, causing a mess at the engine bay and undercarriage. anyone knows why?
 

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SSlim,

The internal seals of the pump is leaking. I think there are about 6 small round seals in the pump that needs replacement.
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
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Are you filling the reservoir when the fluid is hot or cold. If it's filled when cold, the normal expansion of the fluid when it warms up may cause it to overflow.
 

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75evo is right. You have a pump that is leaking around the little o-rings. I fixed that by taking the pump apart. Here's an illustration:

When you take off the two bolts (see extreme left) that hold the pump together, it will split into two - minus the pulley, which is at the right hand side of the picture



The seals are located around the little holes on the radius of the pump body, as pictured below:



Those o-rings are unobtainable, usually, but if you were lucky enough to find a shop that could match them to something already on the shelf, you'd be in fat city. However, since I wasn't so lucky, I put gasket sealant between the two halves of the pump, making sure none of the holes are covered with the goop, and put it back together.

I now have a power steering pump that doesn't leak, and works just fine. Cost of repair, $3 (for a tube of gasket sealant) plus a bit of my time.

Nizam
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hi papajam,

it hapeens doesn't matter if i top up during cold or hot ...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hi 75evo/nizam,

yes it is bubbling a lot, so i guess the pump gotta go under surgery soon. thanks for your info!
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Wow, this fix worked perfectly - no more mess. Thanks guys.

Just to add some info, I was able to get a big box of assorted metric o-rings at Harbor Freight for $9. They are round cross section instead of square but they worked fine to replace the six worn ones.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Gubi said:
They are round cross section instead of square but they worked fine to replace the six worn ones.
Oops...they worked fine for about two weeks. Then it started leaking again :rolleyes:

Redid it today with gasket compound like nizam - we'll see how that holds up. So far so good.
 

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I had this problem and it was the rack not the pump.
I replaced the hoses and it keeps on leaking. if I looked in the tank the ATF would get fomed up then over flow. Then after geting a new(rebuilt) rack I have not had any overflows.

The rack was a pain to change but I wish I had changed it sooner. The overflowing ATF would find its way onto the hot cat and the car was smoking real bad all the time.
I have had the new rack for about 5 years so far with no problems.
 

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One thing almost nobody checks when looking for O-rings is their compatibility with the fluid concerned. The results of this oversight can range from nuisance to dangerous. Make this check a necessary part of your O-ring search!
Jim K.
 

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Wow, this thread has been resurrected!

My "long term test" has spanned from Oct 2003 through June 2005. So far, no leaks out of my fix! My wife uses her Verde, up until recently, everyday (now she has the spankin' new Audi A3). No leaks out of her PS pump. It's nice not to find a puddle of PS fluid under the car, or boiling off the exhaust downpipes.

The PS racks are hit-or-miss. Mine never leaked (originali) but my wife's Verde had a leaky rack too so a rebuilt one fixed that particular leak. My $3 tube of gasket sealant fixed the PS pump and I just used fresh copper washers everytime I work on that system to ensure tightness.
 

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Most o-rings in bulk packs (Harbor Freight, etc.) are of Buna N compound, completely compatable with our system's Dextron III requirements. BTW, the 6 small o-rings around the perimiter of the pump body originally were round in cross section but due to compression over time become square. I suspect that if you still have a leak from the flange of the mating halves, you were given the incorrect size, you did not replace the two o-rings on each end of the pressure regulator (the part that protrudes from the accumulator/aft half of the pump - see Nizam's photo) and/or that was not the scource of your problem to begin with. I would suggest that you look to the shaft seal behind the pulley. When it fails, the pump's suction draw's air past the seal and the resulting increase in volume would explain your overflow symptoms. I rebuilt my pump leaking from the middle with only the eight o-rings 40k miles ago and it's not leaked since. I did have to special order minimum quantities of them from a hydraulics store as they were not of standard size so I do have enough to fix a few.
 

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ps and load leveling

i recently bought a 1988 platinum/automatic. having previously owned silvers and golds i'm unfamiliar with the load-leveling system. mine appears to be leaking through bad hydraulic hoses near the rear of the car, and also appears to be non-functional. there seems to be a part missing, judging by bolt holes and what looks to be a bracket position located on the underside of the car just above the differential. in that general location the two small (ca. 4mm) metal tubes that extend from the hydraulic lines are connected together haphazardly with a piece of fuel line. since i determined this on my back in the street i may not have completely accurate information.
here's the question: since the system seems to be disabled anyway, what's the best way to default it out without having to replace the whole hydraulics? can it be capped at the pump, and how would i go about doing that? i searched the posts but haven't found anything about this; i hope i'm not being redundant.
 

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Rob.
You might investigate your local library's reference desk for a copy of All-Data on CD Rom; Audi used the same/similar system in the same time frame thus I would guess that their layout would be almost identical in that it was supplied by the same vendor; ZF Industries (includes Sachs, BOGE, and Lemforder). IMHO that all or nearly all of the AR Milano applications have been converted as the rear leveling shocks leaked, were very expensive and have not been avaliable for a number of years. You may be able to 'shorten the hudraulic loop' by tracing the load leveling plumbing, but I would not cap it off at the pump. If you choose to change the pump to the standard, shorter bodied unit, be aware that there may be a difference in the mounting brackets necessary for pulley alignment.
 
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