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But Mad North-Northwest
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Discussion Starter #61
Does anyone have a GTV bar they can measure to confirm the arm length is shorter ? On this one the arms are about 10-1/2" center-to-center.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Discussion Starter #63
Thanks Ken, looks like the shorter bar would work perfectly.
 

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I have a spare bar that measures about 26cm or 10.25''. Apparently from a Spider? The stock bar on my GTV has 22cm or 8.75" arms approximately.
 

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How hard would it be to cut 1.5" out of the arms and weld them back together?
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Discussion Starter #66
Been thinking about it. The issue is this is spring steel, so any sort of welding is likely to mess up the heat treat and cause a weak spot. Maybe cut, thread, and use a coupling nut.

Or just leave it off if I can't find one, I doubt I'll notice the difference.
 

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Couldnt agree more. Alfas handle best w a soft rear end and a stiffer front end. larger front bar, NO rear bar n balanced springs. on a street GTV thats usually 750 front/100 rear. Race fronts go up to 1200. Soft shocks in rear, harder in front if using adj konis. thats 0-25% rear, 50-75% fronts.

you can install the rear and to test, just disconnect one side to negate it. you will feel the difference. or just listen to guys who race these n know. make sure tire pressures are right n have fun

setup right you can tighten the apex accelerating in the corner. that wont happen w a rear bar. it was added to subdue the tail not enhance it as that was the American preference at that time.
 

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In my experience, for a car that is stock, or with some mild street modifications, the rear bar "feels better" driving on the street in most all conditions (except extreme outlaw cases). Less body roll. To get the best lap times (in the same car) on a road course race track, disconnect that bar, and zip tie it out of the way. It may seem counter intuitive, but it is true. As for a highly modified street car / race car, a properly engineered and balanced rear bar may work better. Just my $0.02
 

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Couldnt agree more. Alfas handle best w a soft rear end and a stiffer front end. larger front bar, NO rear bar n balanced springs. on a street GTV thats usually 750 front/100 rear. Race fronts go up to 1200. Soft shocks in rear, harder in front if using adj konis. thats 0-25% rear, 50-75% fronts.

you can install the rear and to test, just disconnect one side to negate it. you will feel the difference. or just listen to guys who race these n know. make sure tire pressures are right n have fun

setup right you can tighten the apex accelerating in the corner. that wont happen w a rear bar. it was added to subdue the tail not enhance it as that was the American preference at that time.
i ran alan's race set up for the longest time back in the 80-90's replacing a shankle super sports set up which i was pretty happy with. typical racing spec 1200lb 200lb on the streets on cold street rubber without an altered rear roll center, it spun like a top. One day a rear bar end fitting came undone... and it handle much better! I left it off since. In the early 2000's i decided to do my own spring rates with christian at eibach . if memory serves i decided on 800F 180R. oddly enough I found out through the BB later that's pretty much what alfaholics have settle on for there spring rates as well.

i have 3 bars to shuffle around depending on the usage since the bars weren't adjustable back then. skankle stiff, S3 medium and stock 105 soft. a huge factor that will throw all this balance talk off is the rear ride height. if you drop the rear end lower it increases the grip dramatically due to the geometry of the longitudinal trailing arms and T link. basically your are reducing the weight jacking effect. If you run with the axle locator ie, sliding block, watts, panhard, you start all over with your set up. also you can go back to the front and chase it further with drop spindles and the geometry kits that are now offered. :)


me 2 cents cheers DB
 

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Can anyone for help me figure out the angle at which to install the arms? I marked mine before disassembly but they were installed backwards to begin with as you see on the top of the pic

IMG_2906.jpg
 

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Should be at normal ride height no strain on the bushings. Then mark them or guess based on images.
 

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Should be at normal ride height no strain on the bushings. Then mark them or guess based on images.
Good idea, did this. Before I install the drop links I want to check that it is reasonably possible to install the full assembly on to the car without removing a great deal of other parts?
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Discussion Starter #73
I just did it. It’s a tight squeeze but possible. I had to take off one of the wheels and let the exhaust droop.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Discussion Starter #74
Okay, the good news is that thanks to some end links from Ed and a GTV bar from Fred I was able to reinstall a rear bar on my GTV. That said, I also redid the entire rear suspension at the same time (new stock springs & new heavy-duty bushings) so unclear exactly how much it impacted handling.

Anyway it's all back to stock now so I'm going to call it good. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Amazing how a job that looks simple can take 74 posts to resolve. "Nothing worthwhile is easily achieved" - Percy Cerutty.
 

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I just did it. It’s a tight squeeze but possible. I had to take off one of the wheels and let the exhaust droop.
Well said. I dropped the exhaust and took the occasion to make a few adjustments to it while I did. Happy to have the rear bar on and my initial impressions after a day of driving is that it did nothing but good things for the car. Mine is 100% stock down to rubber bushings and stock springs. Koni Reds the only "mod" if you can call them that.
 
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