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I have a late 1750 GTV. It's in primer and stripped down to the metal and primed. Needs some floor repair and a rocker. Has baskets of new parts -door handles, head liner, rubber, etc. All the front suspension is off and cleaned and painted. All the rear suspension is off, cleaned and painted. The engine is completely dis-assembled, cleaned, and ready to be re-assembled. New cylinder sleeve / piston set, gasket set, etc. What's it worth. I pushing sixty, have two other ALFAs and thinking I don't want to take the time to do this. What's it worth, guys?
 

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Bud,

As we both know, that's a very nice body; as observed by me when I place my can of beer on the fenders during various sessions at your garage. To better illustrate the condition to prospective buyers, you need to take more pictures to illustrate where there is no rust.

I have a late 1750 GTV. It's in primer and stripped down to the metal and primed. Needs some floor repair and a rocker. Has baskets of new parts -door handles, head liner, rubber, etc. All the front suspension is off and cleaned and painted. All the rear suspension is off, cleaned and painted. The engine is completely dis-assembled, cleaned, and ready to be re-assembled. New cylinder sleeve / piston set, gasket set, etc. What's it worth. I pushing sixty, have two other ALFAs and thinking I don't want to take the time to do this. What's it worth, guys?
 

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What's My GTV 1750 in a Basket Worth

I'm not about to place a value on a project car except to say that it would be less valuable than a Duetto or Sprint Speciale. The 1974s of that model seem to garner higher prices than the other years. We had both a 1969 and a 1974.

Further, it takes a special kind of buyer to take on a disassembled project car. Certainly, some one with more knowledge about Alfas and the time required to pick up where you left off. I suggest that you catalog the parts and box them accordingly: engine parts, trim parts, interior parts, glass etc. I have seen Pat walk away from dissembled project cars at the right price, simply, because he could not be certain that he would get all the parts necessary because they were spread around the garage, yard, etc. He learned to look for parts that he was fairly certain would be missing and that he would have to come up with or make. He would much prefer to buy a non-running car that was still a project car, but he could see everything that the car came with and they were attached.

The other side to this coin, is the person that doesn't care if it's an original Alfa and is willing to put another kind of engine in it, or make parts work, flare the fenders etc. To sell to this kind of buyer, you truly have to be able to detach yourself from preserving an Alfa, and not worry about what it may ultimately become.
 

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Has to be a pre '71 1750 (unless somebody has welded up the front indicator holes) thus this makes it a series 1 or mk 1, but it also has the uglier large tail lights thus I suspect somebody has indeed welded up the front indicator holes OR it has had a rear section replacement at some stage. I also did not think they made 1750's up to 1974. I would have thought '72 was the last year (?).

As the body looks like it needs bugger all work I would give it to a paint shop and get it painted and then sell it as a "just needs assembly" project, or pay somebody to put it together.

What I can tell from these pictures is that it appears not to need any rust repairs which makes it EXTREMELY rare and worth something.
Pete
 

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Has to be a pre '71 1750 (unless somebody has welded up the front indicator holes) thus this makes it a series 1 or mk 1,....
Pete:

No, I think it is a 1971 model car - at least the '71 models sold here in the states - as it is a hanging pedal car. The rectangular hole in the firewall that accepts the pedal & booster assembly is clearly visible.

Little Italian:

My guess is somewhere in the $2,000 - $5,000 range, depending on how well you market it, and whether you find a buyer who just has to have it.

Unfortunately, disassembled projects sell for a big discount relative to assembled, running cars. This applies despite whatever time and money has gone into bodywork and new parts. Sorry, but that's just the way the market seems to work.

That dolly you have built looks like a nice feature for working on the shell, but the lack of a proper suspension may make it hard for a buyer to trailer it. You may need to re-mount the suspension to turn it into a "roller". Do you have wheels and tires that will hold air?

Your location in Kentucky may hurt you a bit. Here in S. Calif., there are probably 200 Alfisti within "trailering distance". My guess is that there is a smaller pool of prospective buyers in your vicinity, which does put downward pressure on price.
 

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To better illustrate the condition to prospective buyers, you need to take more pictures to illustrate where there is no rust.
Bud, I agree. Take a hundred pictures. Show every nook and cranny where there is usually rust. Everyone is scared of being burned by what they couldn't see. I sold a really rusty, very incomplete 750F for far beyond what anyone thought it was worth by doing just what I described. The California buyer knew exactly what he was getting.

As a reference point for your '71, I recently paid $2400 for a '71 1750 in Kansas City. This car needs middle and outer rockers and rear fender lips on both sides. Strangely, the spare tire well and floor boards are solid, as are the front and rear windshield areas. It came with 2 complete, but needing rebuilt 1750 engines and transmissions, and some extra parts (doors, hood, deck lid etc) from the second car (a '69). I'm using the '69 seats in my '74! Oh yeah, it also came with most of the needed sheet metal to make rust repairs (rear fenders, rockers). This car may become a Carerra Panamericana race car. At least that is my dream for it!
 

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Has to be a pre '71 1750 (unless somebody has welded up the front indicator holes) thus this makes it a series 1 or mk 1, but it also has the uglier large tail lights thus I suspect somebody has indeed welded up the front indicator holes OR it has had a rear section replacement at some stage. I also did not think they made 1750's up to 1974. I would have thought '72 was the last year (?).

As the body looks like it needs bugger all work I would give it to a paint shop and get it painted and then sell it as a "just needs assembly" project, or pay somebody to put it together.

What I can tell from these pictures is that it appears not to need any rust repairs which makes it EXTREMELY rare and worth something.
Pete
Pete - the US spec 1750's had the larger rear tail lights, at least the later ones did. They and the 2000's also had indicators attached to the bumper and not let into the front panel as per all other markets.

Looks like a nice shell.
 

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Pete - the US spec 1750's had the larger rear tail lights, at least the later ones did. They and the 2000's also had indicators attached to the bumper and not let into the front panel as per all other markets.

Looks like a nice shell.
Thanks just learnt something :).

Pete
 

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This could be an option for me. I have a running 74 that is...well , a rust bucket :eek:. Insted of ordering a ton of sheetmetal from Classic Alfa I could just finish this one while still driving my 74. I have done all of the mechanicals on my car (engine, trans, suspension, brakes, steering box...) Please send me a ton of pics, or as many as you have :) to:
[email protected]
I live in Maryland (450 miles away, loked it up on map quest). It's a shame to see my GTV parted out but the body is very rough to say the least, even though it drives GREAT :D

I bought an abandoned project 75 BMW 2002 about 5 years ago and did the same thing. drove my mechanically perfect 1974 '02 while finishing the projec car and transfered the mechanicals when the project was done. Please send me some pics I am very interested.
Thanks Much
Luis
 

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where's the car at? (to paraphrase a joke I once heard)
Yes, and more pics would be good.
Don't be deterred. the only person willing to buy your project will have done it before. I have assembled these GTA, GTV's only 4 times; well more, if you think of what's involved in racing them.... (go figure) the way to go fast enough in these cars is to build the motor well. No one really dumps another mill in there.... well, there was that s2000 honda powered one....
thanks
Steve
 

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Clarification on transplant

I think I need to clarify. What I meant is that I could satisfy my lust to drive a GTV while doing this project. No need to be without for a number of months.
I would order the sheet metal and other necesities (interior bits, trim pieces and details) from CLASSICALFA weld and prep the car and have a profesional finish the body work and paint. Rebuild the 1750, have Wes Ingram re-do the Spica and recommend head modification for improved performance matched to the Spica. Just a bit better performance than original nothing radical. After that is done the rest of the mechanicals is all ready to go in. No additional time needed for these repairs, just the time to carefully transplant...

1. rebuild and super smooth 5 speed trany, (new hose, master and slave cylinders);
2.completely redone front suspension (Centerline kit) to include the steering box;
3. IAP springs with Koni reds
4. all new brakes (4 calipers, 4 rotors, hoses, slave and master cylinders, handbrake cables)
5. redone rear suspension, new seals on diferential, new limiting straps, new suspension bumps and ALL new bushings (some urethane) and A arm bushings
6. boiled and sealed gas tank with new sender unit.
7. European tail lights, I like the red and yellow beter than the all reds.

All suspension pieces have been POR15 coated and painted.

So it would be my intention to take it back to its original glory, so much so that I would paint it original color (in and out). Looks like it was a greyish-blue or bluish-gray from the engine compartment pic?? I would also have the engine bay cleanedup and painted. NOT my intention to stray from what it looked like when it left Italy...Rebuilt 1750 with improved SPICA, improved head flow, beautyfull fast driver :). I must confess I might add a CENTERLINE header :D but that would be it.

Hope this clears any misunderstanding and PUTS FEARS TO REST:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Paint Started

VeloceGT came and took a look at my GTV but decided it was too much work to get it the way he would like to have it. So in my dispair I started working on it again. Here are the latest photos.

It would be nice if I could get it the car track ready by the Convention Time but I don't believe I can get it all painted and enough stuff reassembled.
All the suspension and steering is cleaned, overhauled, painted and hanging up in the garage, ready for bolt-on. It's almost a kit car. The bolts and brackets still need to be plated. Fuel and brake lines need to be reinstalled. And the engine had to be put together although I have a head ready to drop on.

Of course, there is the matter of finishing the paint work.

I just spent two and a half days water sanding out the engine compartment. All my fingers are ground down but are starting to sprout back out. Took another day to put two coats of Epoxy primer and three coats of paint in the wiper motor sump and the engine bay. I think I can get at least two of the wheel wells primed and painted this week end. There already cleaned out to the original paint. Next, I'lltilt the car back up on the the rotor to do the bottom. Might as well make it as clean as the rest of the car.
 

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Keep working like this and it will be finished soon :). Looks great.
Pete
 

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And now for something completely different.

I'm curious as to what the chassis number is. Our 71 GTV, #1533114, has the two slot front valance while yours has a four slot. The question of when this change occurred has come up numerous times over the years so maybe some more light could be shed on the subject.
 

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It would seem to confirm Alfas practice of transitioning from one component to another over a period of time instead of 'the change took place on x date with y chassis number'. I was PMed a chassis number that precedes 1533114 by a few hundred, was built a month earlier yet has the 4 slot valance.

2 slot valance of 1533114;

P5130008.jpg

P5130017.jpg

Do you have the large tail lights?
The car was originally fitted with the large tail lights but has been converted to accept the small lights, and reverse light, that Bertone intended. :)
 

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Basically what ever you want is right. We have proved that Series 2 1750's in particular can have the 4 slot, but yet mine never has and is a 2 slotter.

And as for the large tail lights, some Series 2 1750's have them and some don't ... and yes even if my car originally had the large tail lights I would convert it to the much better looking smaller ones. Thankfully I don't have to.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
More Paint Work Done

It has been raining here in Lexington almost every day. It makes it very difficult to get any work done. I'm hanging in there. Here is the insides of the Passenger Side Front Wheel House. I cleaned the undercoat out of the wheel houses about a year ago. I discovered if you soak the asphalt coating with Tire Black, the Asphalt dissolves. A scrapper and a lot of paper shop towels is all that is necessary to get the houses cleaned down to the original paint. I've spent two days up under this wheel house sanding out the paint and primer and metal prepping the bare metal.
My fingers are worn down to nubs again from trying to sand out all those little curves and profiles pressed into the metal. ( Is there a maximium number if times you can where your finger tips out? - Nine lives?).

Two coats of Epoxy Primer and three coats of single stage paint and this is what you get.:D:D:D
I love it. It's so pretty. John M+ is going to be so proud of me.
 

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All I've got to say, Bud, is.....

Work your fingers to the bone....
What do you get?

Boney fingers!!!:D:eek::D:eek::rolleyes:
 

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Are you going to re-underseal so you can drive it on the road?

Pete
 

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undercoat

We used a product called raptor made by a company called u-pol. It is a tint-able bed liner and makes for a wonderful look, texture and durable seal.
 
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