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Discussion Starter #1
Hello

I am new to the site and am excited about my first Alfa purchase. I have a potential buy for a 1974 2000 GTV.

I was hoping that some of the seasoned owners can tell me what to look for before buying. What will make for a solid vehicle that will likely appreciate over time, versus a Frankenstein car that will only bring heartache...

I would appreciate any sage advice.

Thanks in advance,
Rob from Toronto
 

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Hi Rob,
Welcome to the AlfaBB.
Send me a message.

Thanks
 

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Rob,
Email sent.
 

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Also check out trunk and well for spare tire. Probably has a glued in windscreen, check for rust where water might collect and sit. The vented scuttle at first glance might be presentable, but they tend to rust from the edge under the windshield out, getting difficult to find solid replacements. Check jack points as well, if the rockers show evidence of rust or bubbling they should be carefully checked. Oil leaks kind of come with the territory, but check transmission for shifting smoothness, 2nd gear synchros are not known for their longevity. Also check for vibrations at speed, could be anything from out of round tires, out of balance tires, worn Guibo, center support and/or bearing or failing u-joints. Brakes on a car not driven a lot can seize or drag. Once purchased you will need to change all fluids, hoses, brake and fuel lines, tune her up and with and luck you will be smiling. Exhaust system deserves a good looking over as well. I’m sure I’ve missed a thing or two, or three... I have a 74 owned since new, so somewhat familiar with them. Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also check out trunk and well for spare tire. Probably has a glued in windscreen, check for rust where water might collect and sit. The vented scuttle at first glance might be presentable, but they tend to rust from the edge under the windshield out, getting difficult to find solid replacements. Check jack points as well, if the rockers show evidence of rust or bubbling they should be carefully checked. Oil leaks kind of come with the territory, but check transmission for shifting smoothness, 2nd gear synchros are not known for their longevity. Also check for vibrations at speed, could be anything from out of round tires, out of balance tires, worn Guibo, center support and/or bearing or failing u-joints. Brakes on a car not driven a lot can seize or drag. Once purchased you will need to change all fluids, hoses, brake and fuel lines, tune her up and with and luck you will be smiling. Exhaust system deserves a good looking over as well. I’m sure I’ve missed a thing or two, or three... I have a 74 owned since new, so somewhat familiar with them. Best of luck!
Thanks VabeneGTV. This is fantastic info. I think the seller is in for some trouble from me. I am coming armed! Most appreciated!
 

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No 1 thing to look out for is rust in the rockers and rear wheel arches.
  • Proper vertical seams at the front and rear of the rockers; if missing, repairs have been done
  • Structurally sound jack points at all four locations
  • Undeformed box structures aft of the rear shock upper mounting points; if deformed, the car has been tapped in the back
  • Spot welds in the rear wheel arches and rear clip behind the rear bumper; if missing, body work has been performed
  • Undeformed radiator shroud and headlight supports behind the front clip; Even and symmetrical grill opening at the front; if not, the car has been tapped in front
  • Clean body (no rust bubbles) under the lower front corners of the windshield and at the rear quarter window trim by the C pillar. Even so, there is rust there that you can’t see; if you see it, it’s even worse than you thought
  • Clean body work under the radiator; this area tends to rust when the provisions for drainage plug up
  • Good panel closure for the hood, trunk and doors. Even so, the doors may be hard to close due to seal replacement or alignment issues
Once you get past the body, Any issues with the mechanicals, electricals and interior are fairly easy to resolve and parts are available. Rust and body work can eat your lunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
  • Proper vertical seams at the front and rear of the rockers; if missing, repairs have been done
  • Structurally sound jack points at all four locations
  • Undeformed box structures aft of the rear shock upper mounting points; if deformed, the car has been tapped in the back
  • Spot welds in the rear wheel arches and rear clip behind the rear bumper; if missing, body work has been performed
  • Undeformed radiator shroud and headlight supports behind the front clip; Even and symmetrical grill opening at the front; if not, the car has been tapped in front
  • Clean body (no rust bubbles) under the lower front corners of the windshield and at the rear quarter window trim by the C pillar. Even so, there is rust there that you can’t see; if you see it, it’s even worse than you thought
  • Clean body work under the radiator; this area tends to rust when the provisions for drainage plug up
  • Good panel closure for the hood, trunk and doors. Even so, the doors may be hard to close due to seal replacement or alignment issues
Once you get past the body, Any issues with the mechanicals, electricals and interior are fairly easy to resolve and parts are available. Rust and body work can eat your lunch.
  • Proper vertical seams at the front and rear of the rockers; if missing, repairs have been done
  • Structurally sound jack points at all four locations
  • Undeformed box structures aft of the rear shock upper mounting points; if deformed, the car has been tapped in the back
  • Spot welds in the rear wheel arches and rear clip behind the rear bumper; if missing, body work has been performed
  • Undeformed radiator shroud and headlight supports behind the front clip; Even and symmetrical grill opening at the front; if not, the car has been tapped in front
  • Clean body (no rust bubbles) under the lower front corners of the windshield and at the rear quarter window trim by the C pillar. Even so, there is rust there that you can’t see; if you see it, it’s even worse than you thought
  • Clean body work under the radiator; this area tends to rust when the provisions for drainage plug up
  • Good panel closure for the hood, trunk and doors. Even so, the doors may be hard to close due to seal replacement or alignment issues
Once you get past the body, Any issues with the mechanicals, electricals and interior are fairly easy to resolve and parts are available. Rust and body work can eat your lunch.
Thanks Ken. I will add these to my list. It is clear that the body work and rust is the focus. Hope you are keeping safe!
 

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Thanks Ken. I will add these to my list. It is clear that the body work and rust is the focus. Hope you are keeping safe!
Especially true for a northern car where roads are salted...
Good luck with your search/buy; stay safe as wel!
 

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Good luck! I recently purchased a ‘74 GTV 2000 from Vancouver. I’m deployed and have not seen it yet but I’ve already bought her “presents”. lol We’ll be united in 13 days.
 

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I'd walk away if it has a glued in windscreen. Not worth the hassle, and to convert requires a different windscreen
Pete
 

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Welcome, Rob. Send me a message (PM) and we can talk on the phone when convenient.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'd walk away if it has a glued in windscreen. Not worth the hassle, and to convert requires a different windscreen
Pete
Great advice. I will add that to my growing list! Thanks and keep safe!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Good luck! I recently purchased a ‘74 GTV 2000 from Vancouver. I’m deployed and have not seen it yet but I’ve already bought her “presents”. lol We’ll be united in 13 days.
Was it the yellow one? I thought I saw one auctioned from Vancouver. So happy for you! I hope it goes well! Thanks again!
Rob
 

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Great advice. I will add that to my growing list! Thanks and keep safe!
I guess I should clarify this comment. If the rest of the car is much better than other options you have available, as long as you understand the glued in windscreen impact, then you can make a wise decision :)

Pete
 
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