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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to clean up the wiring in my GTV6.
Can someone please tell me what these electrical components are.
The double relay black box thing?
The cylindrical resistor thing with three wires going to it?
Cheers.
 

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The "double relay" as it's usually called is a critical component. It's a good idea to have a spare. It's responsible for turning on the fuel pump.

The cylindrical resistor controls heater/A.C. blower speed. I am used to seeing that on the other side of the car. It would help if I knew the year of your car, and where in the world it's located. They are not all the same.

Greg,
Silicone Hose Kits
OKINJECTORS.COM
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks Greg. Its a 1984gtv6. Australian delivered.
That's what I was assuming to be the case.
My fuel pump runs with the double relay disconnected in my car, as the fuel pump has been connected to a toggle switch in the car. It's a little confusing as to why so many wires run to the double relay, yet it has no effect on the running of the engine - in my case, when disconnected.

The heater/ac thing - does that have an effect on the ac only or the heater as well? I no longer have the ac fitted so i was going to take that out.

I'm trying to clean up the amount of wires going to the fuse box because I can hardly fit it up under the dash after a peddle box was fitted and I have lost the mounting points to the fuse box on one side.

Thanks for the help.

edit ...just reread your post and understand that the resistor controlls the fan speed thus I kind of need that.
 

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V6 Relays

Hi
I think that Alfa calls this the combi relay. It is the interface between cars harness and the Bosch fuel injection engine harness. In a USA spec car, the engine won't run, if this is removed. I'm not sure if the fuel pump switch on your dash has completely bypassed the relays or a Euro / Aussie spec car has a different system. The combi relays provide power to the injection ECU and ignition system. Can you get a wiring diagram for the car? If you eliminate it from the system, you may get voltage drop to the ECU.
I'll see what I have for diagrams.
KG
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Paugnut.
I didn't start the car with the relay disconnected but rather ran the fuel pump to see if it would turn of when i disconnected the double relay. Disconnecting the double relay did not kill the pump. The double replay is definitely interconnected to the ecu harness thus I'm sure if i tried to start the car it wouldn't run.

I'm a little confused due to the changes to the wiring such as the fuel pump. The removal of the a/c system and some of its wiring. The brake fluid warning system is disconnected. The headlight switch was bypassed. No rear demister due to plastic window. Faulty relays. Faulty indicator stalk. Bad earths ect ect Basically it seems like some of the electrical components have failed and have been bypassed to keep the car running. I just want to get the electrical system down to the bare bones, understand it and then maybe re-position the fuse box to the passenger side. I'm making progress, getting things working but its kind of like defusing a bomb (without the actual risk of being killed of course).

Ill just keep plodding away and take my time removing bits and pieces and ill figure it out.
 

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get yourself the wiring diagrams. it will keep you sane...and for the most part, the colors are accurate..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Xray...my sanity was lost a long time ago. I do have the diagrams but they are only so good when the wiring has been altered. I have done allot of wiring on a few 2lt gtv's and the wiring isn't to dissimilar even down to some of the coloring.

Can anyone explain why the low brake fluid level warning system requires a relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok next stupid question.

What are these relays above the power window fuses. I'm thinking a/c for one and the other one unknown as yet.

Buy the time I'm getting home from work its already getting dark so its pretty hard to sort this stuff out without good light. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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The Australian combi relay functions the same as the US cct. Does a bunch of other things besides fuel pump. I'd get a new one and be certain that's fixed. You can disassemble & fix, but that is often temporary.

For what it's worth the wiring diagram in the owner’s manual of my Australian delivered 1983 GTV6 has been almost correct. I've found a slight difference around the handbrake warning light, but nothing else wrong.

Alfettaparts, if those relays in your hand are from up under the dash above the fuses, then one is the interior lights delay and i think the other one is the windscreen wiper delay timer.

Yes the trio of wire wound resistors is just for the heater/cooler fan. You'll still want that. That is a complex bit of circuitry. Make sure you're well rested and sober before trying to understand that bit.

Brake fluid level - mine didn't have a relay, but not a bad idea as it doesn't make good contact when the float drops. I lost fluid & the one time in my life I needed that warning light, it wasn't working. That's where the circuit diagram was wrong, it shows the handbrake and fluid level as both operating the one warning light. Whereas they don't. Fluid light is built in next to the fan and alternator warning lights. The handbrake is a separate light next to the electric window switches. Probably an ADR requirement. Might look at putting in relay and/or transistor on that brake fluid level.

Good luck,
AL.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you guys.
The relays in my hand from the last shots are attached to the side of the fuse box proper, above the two fuses for the electric windows.
I'm pretty certain one was for the air condition as the wires go into the engine bay. These are are disconnected as the air con has been removed. The other may be as suggested, the delay for the interior lights. Ill have to trace the wires some more to determine that.
Al......the windscreen wiper relay is up under the dash toward the drivers door.
I might see if I can find the books from an Australian delivered car if it has the wiring diagrams specific to our models. Thanks for that.
 

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Earlier cars, 81-82 reference a different part number, 0 332 514 121. 83-88 reference the 0 332 514 127 relay. Interchangeable? What is the difference?
 

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Alfettaparts,

The manual lists an additional 2 relays for A/C that aren’t shown in the picture, just like the one posted by GHNC, so I reckon that’s them

I have copies from my 1983 Australian delivered (to the ACT) wiring diagrams scanned and saved as TIFF (& GIF as well), which print out nicely on A3 paper. I could email them to you if you like. The email & personal message systems on this forum don’t seem to allow attachments, so do you want to PM me a hotmail address or something like that?

Regards,

AL.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Al that diagram would be great. Ill pm you.

I had the day of work today so I traced the two 'extra' relays and took a punt on them being for the air con. So out with the relays and wires.

Later in the day my thermo fan wasn't switching on so I thought what have i done. Turns out the main power wire had come loose at the rear of the fuse box.

I'm down to three relays out of 9 and everything I want working is still going.

I can even tuck the fuse box under the dash without to much effort.

Just a word of warning. Allot of the power supply's and earths are jumped across one relay to another so you really need to take your time when removing a complete circuit such as the air conditioning system.

Now to carry on with the work to get the car registered.
 

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I completely rewired my gtv6. I may have had a thread about it about 4 years ago now... It took me about 3 months working about 4 hours a day. During this time I put in a new EFI Haltech E11V2 as well which made everything much easier. Simply rip everything out and put back in new stuff. During this time I relocated the fuse box behind the drivers seat with the new spade fuse type. It has made life MUCH better. Everything works better with good grounds and new wires. I also moved the heater resistor into the heater core box, having the vent air blow over the resistor when it is in use. This reduces the number of wires that penetrate the fire wall. I also added engine bay relays that controlled the headlights, fuel pump, and other major things outside the cabin. The most difficult thing was working with the windshield wipers and figuring out how that all worked. But mostly everything works. I need to work on some door switches and interior lights but other than that everything works!
 

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Actually AlfettaParts said he was thinking of moving the fuse panel to the other side of the car. Spade fuse conversion would make sense if you were doing that.

The wiring goes in to the back of the original fuse holder via 1/4" - 6.3mm connectors so to quote jeremy Clarkson "How hard can it be?"
 

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I used a painless wiring harness. I actually bought two so if someone wants to buy the extra one let me know. The main benefit to using new wires it that you won't start your car on fire. New TLX wire is SO MUCH BETTER than the old vinyl stuff. I got something like this:
Painless Performance: 18 Circuit Universal / Streetrod Harness / Non GM Keyed Column Machine

Let me know and I will try to break into my notes. I am on travel right now but I should be back in a week.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If i was fitting an aftermarket ecu I would definitely be doing a complete rewire. As it is I'm going to keep the original ecu for a while so I'm not thinking about a rewire for some time. I now have the fuse box quiet tidy and its snug and secure in its intended place so that will do for now.

When I had my haltech I used a prepurchased loom. When I had my motec I made the loom. Didn't really make allot of difference, both where still really time consuming to complete. Wiring is kind of fun. Would rather do that than overhaul a g/box these days.
 
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