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Discussion Starter #1
I've been done to Autozone 4 times already, tried 28mm too small 29mm (The biggest they had in metric-too small, but not by much), 1 1/4" and (too big, maybe because of the outer diameter of the socket, not sure) 1 3/16" (too small).
 

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I use a 1 7/16 socket with the wall thickness reduced by 2 for the first 25mm. Fits a treat. I think that the metric equivalent is 36mm but check before you buy.
 

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I have measured it with calipers and it comes out to a 38mm... or roughly 1.5 in.

I'm currently looking for an impact socket and wrench... i'm assuming this is the best meathod to remove it.?.? Bot... where do you get a socket that huge?!?! ANd... where do you get ine made for a normal size drive?!?

Sprintn
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have measured it with calipers and it comes out to a 38mm... or roughly 1.5 in.

I'm currently looking for an impact socket and wrench... i'm assuming this is the best meathod to remove it.?.? Bot... where do you get a socket that huge?!?! ANd... where do you get ine made for a normal size drive?!?

Sprintn
I got a 3/4" drive 1 7/16" socket at Autozone, along with a 1/2" drive to 3/4" drive adapter. I can swing my 1/2" drive ratchet with the "huge" 3/4" socket on it.
 

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I had to remove the crank nut the other day, and the simplest solution was to borrow the giant socket from my mechanic, who was gracious enough to lend it to me.
 

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I bought a 1 1/2 inch socket at Autozone for about 10.00. 3/4 inch drive. If you don't have a 3/4 inch drive breakover you can purchase a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter.
 

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I bought a 1 1/2 inch socket at Autozone for about 10.00. 3/4 inch drive. If you don't have a 3/4 inch drive breakover you can purchase a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter.
...and a 1/2 inch drive will probably break due to the torque involved. Only good solution is a 3/4 inch drive with a big breaker bar and a cheater pipe or else an airgun with enough power.


If the nut is stuck enough it is cheaper to drill a couple of holes in the nut and release the torque that way and then buy a new nut than it is to kill your tools in the process....
 

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Don't forget to flatten the crinped washer that is behind the nut or it will never move which is the whole idea. I use a punch and just hammer it flat before putting the socket on the nut.
 

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Since they make torque wrenches with 250 ft.lb. capacity in 1/2 in. drive, I don't think a breakover would snap in this application. Yes, I have broken the yoke on a 1/2 in. breakover but it involved a 1 5/8 socket in 3/4 drive, an adapter, a 5 foot cheater bar and a rusted nut on the rear suspension of a Chevy truck. Broke real good!
 

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If it's really on tight I use the starter to remove stubborn crank nuts. You disable the ignition put the socket on a breaker bar and making sure that the bar is 90 degrees to the pulley turn the bar clock wise (on the drivers side,here in the US) until it is touching the ground. Hit the starter and voila, it spins off the nut. Only car it doesn't work on is Hondas that spin counter clockwise.

Paul
 

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Only if your not getting paid flatrate. :rolleyes: ;)

There's a bit of work involved just to gain access to the nut with an airgun. Then, oftentimes, the gun isn't powerful enough to loosen the nut. Like gt601, I use a breaker bar and the starter; takes less than a minute.
 

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You don't.
Instead of the usual 'lock the crank, turn the nut' method, the breaker bar/starter method locks the nut and turns the crank.
 

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I guess if the engine is out and the starter is off there is a different approach.

An air impact wrench worked awesome!!!! So easy!
 

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Counter Clockwise...at least on my 2L.

Best Regards,
John M
 
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