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I sell and use AMSOIL in all of my vehicles. But when looking up on the guide what oil to get there doesnt seem to be any specifications. What oil weight does the car run? Can i run normal Signature Series AMSOIL or does it need the Euro Spec oil?

Thanks in advance,

Bryan
 

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20W-50 is what I've used for 40 years, major name brands. If they lack zinc, add ZDDP for the health of the cams and tappets.
Andrew
 

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Hi Bryan,

First, contact the AROC-USA librarian and request the documentation for your car. It will almost certainly contain an owners manual and shop manual containing specifications for your car: Tech Library | AROC

The official specification is 10w-40 but as Andrew says most people around here tend to run 20w-50 or similar. I've been running Mobile 1 15w-50 for years with a BG MOA additive package. This has suddenly become unavailable in my area - all the auto parts stores around me stopped selling everything 50 weight except for motorcycle oils and Valvoline VR1 Racing. These would be great for older cars but for late models with catalytic converters they'll "poison" the cat. I did Castrol Edge 10w40 w/ BG MOA on this last oil change I squeezed in the day before shoulder surgery but going forward I'll probably get Redline 15w-50 from Centerline just because they're local to me.

Be careful of about the cat too when selecting an additive package. But of course if you sell the stuff I'd guess you already know about that part!

Chris
 

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Hi Bryan,

First, contact the AROC-USA librarian and request the documentation for your car. It will almost certainly contain an owners manual and shop manual containing specifications for your car: Tech Library | AROC

The official specification is 10w-40 but as Andrew says most people around here tend to run 20w-50 or similar. I've been running Mobile 1 15w-50 for years with a BG MOA additive package. This has suddenly become unavailable in my area - all the auto parts stores around me stopped selling everything 50 weight except for motorcycle oils and Valvoline VR1 Racing. These would be great for older cars but for late models with catalytic converters they'll "poison" the cat. I did Castrol Edge 10w40 w/ BG MOA on this last oil change I squeezed in the day before shoulder surgery but going forward I'll probably get Redline 15w-50 from Centerline just because they're local to me.

Be careful of about the cat too when selecting an additive package. But of course if you sell the stuff I'd guess you already know about that part!

Chris

Chris if you would like i can get you a quote for 20w50 AMSOIL ZRod. it has zinc in it. Ill add a link here so you can check it out and tell me what you think. You shouldnt have to do any extra additives with this oil.

AMSOIL Z-ROD® 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil
 

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If you check the Mobil 1 website, the 15-50 oil still has a high PPM of ZDDP. This is important if you believe the urban legend that oils with lower Zinc levels cause excessive wear or failure in flat tappet engines. And, as reported in an earlier post Mobil 1 15-50 has disappeared from the shelves in my area. I bought my latest supply from Amazon.

I can get Mobil 1 15w50 for under $25 per 5 quart jug at Walmart. It's higher zinc than other weights and very high quality oil.
 

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I just ordered Mobil 1 15W50 through Walmart mail order with free shipping. Got it in about 5 days or so. Better, easier, cheaper, and safer than driving through Queens to get to the Walmart store on the other side of JFK.
 

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Watching a video now where they're using AMSOIL SAE 60 RACING OIL... and following it with nanotech additive for protection and performance... is this kosher...

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
 

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Watching a video now where they're using AMSOIL SAE 60 RACING OIL... and following it with nanotech additive for protection and performance... is this kosher...

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk
I wouldn't use it if you do a lot of cold starts. Keep racing oil for racing.
 

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Hi Bryan,

First, contact the AROC-USA librarian and request the documentation for your car. It will almost certainly contain an owners manual and shop manual containing specifications for your car: Tech Library | AROC

The official specification is 10w-40 but as Andrew says most people around here tend to run 20w-50 or similar. I've been running Mobile 1 15w-50 for years with a BG MOA additive package. This has suddenly become unavailable in my area - all the auto parts stores around me stopped selling everything 50 weight except for motorcycle oils and Valvoline VR1 Racing. These would be great for older cars but for late models with catalytic converters they'll "poison" the cat. I did Castrol Edge 10w40 w/ BG MOA on this last oil change I squeezed in the day before shoulder surgery but going forward I'll probably get Redline 15w-50 from Centerline just because they're local to me.

Be careful of about the cat too when selecting an additive package. But of course if you sell the stuff I'd guess you already know about that part!

Chris
Just changed my oil to 15w50 mobil1- walmart carries it most of the time. Would you add additives to it? Why/ why not? I have never added any additives to any of my cars, but alfas really aren't any ordinary car..
 

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My opinion is that people tend to way, way overthink this. You’ll see posts on how they have used brand X for thirty years and never had a problem. What you don’t see are any posts on how someone used brand Y and their cams got destroyed in 15,000 miles. We’ve all heard the scare stories about reduced zinc and flat tappet engines and maybe there were some tales years back from people with pumped up pushrod V8’s, I don’t know. The Alfa is overhead cam, it doesn’t have all the inertial mass of a valve train with lifters, pushrods and rocker arms. Furthermore the cam lobes and buckets run in a perpetual pool of oil, they are never anywhere close to being starved of lubrication by any stretch of the imagination.

So maybe if you like the logo on the bottle that’s as good a way of selecting as any. I’ve kind of taken a liking to Royal Purple myself.
 

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My opinion is that people tend to way, way overthink this. You’ll see posts on how they have used brand X for thirty years and never had a problem. What you don’t see are any posts on how someone used brand Y and their cams got destroyed in 15,000 miles. We’ve all heard the scare stories about reduced zinc and flat tappet engines and maybe there were some tales years back from people with pumped up pushrod V8’s, I don’t know. The Alfa is overhead cam, it doesn’t have all the inertial mass of a valve train with lifters, pushrods and rocker arms. Furthermore the cam lobes and buckets run in a perpetual pool of oil, they are never anywhere close to being starved of lubrication by any stretch of the imagination.

So maybe if you like the logo on the bottle that’s as good a way of selecting as any. I’ve kind of taken a liking to Royal Purple myself.
:grin2::grin2::grin2: my favorite logo ...
 

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Any oil made in the last 10 years is better than what came in my car in 1989. My owners manual says use API SF rated which probably went obsolete in 1990. I use 10w-40 winter or 20w-50 summer.
 

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Any oil made in the last 10 years is better than what came in my car in 1989. My owners manual says use API SF rated which probably went obsolete in 1990. I use 10w-40 winter or 20w-50 summer.

" better" in what respect ? do you think the metallurgy in your 1989 car is something mystical ? I would suggest to you ( without any factual basis for the claim ) that there is every possibility that, due to emissions requirements and the compromised chemistry that the oil companies are forced to use now, that any current non synthetic may very well NOT be as good as the oil that came in your car in 89. and look... lets look at the truth of the matter... the cars are completely conventional, have extremely low unit loadings on the bearing surfaces, have a very good and well designed and executed oiling system and have absolutely NO history of lubrication issues what so ever...

so... I ask the question , what problem are you trying to solve ? are you running 13 to 1 at 9500 revs that you suddenly are at the design limits of the hardware ? are you trying to go 25000 miles between oil changes because oil where you live is suddenly 350 $ a quart ?

the " logo on the bottle " standard is about as good an answer as you need to this question. unless you have some bizzare configuration you are trying to protect then engineering rule number 6 is your answer... " all you need to solve a problem is only what you actually NEED to solve the problem. everything else is a waste of time and money."
 

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that any current non synthetic may very well NOT be as good as the oil that came in your car in 89.
I think these days, non-synthetics are mostly marketed for either very low-end applications or specialized applications like oils targeted towards classic cars. So limiting the discussion to "current non-synthetic" is a bit problematic. I think the biggest developments over the last 30 years have been improved detergents and the development of better and better synthetics. The detergents on even non-synthetics are almost certainly better. What synthetic oil gets you is wider viscosity ranges (you can't get 0w40 out of conventional), better stability at high temperature, and longer life. Longer life is a big reason why most OEMs now specify synthetic oil.

The only issue with running synthetics and modern oils is that ZDDP content has been reduced on most modern oils because it fouls catalytic converters and 02 sensors. You can either use an additive or a specialized oil that still has high ZDDP content. Mobil 1 15w50, for example, has high ZDDP content for a modern synthetic. That being said, the benefits of synthetics are probably limited for most vintage Alfa drivers. Most aren't driving 10,000 miles a year through 4 seasons, so cold start viscosity and longer life isn't really important. Most aren't driving their cars on the track, so high-temp stability isn't an issue either.

At the end of the day, for normal use cases, oil selection isn't all that important so long as your choice of oil is at least remotely appropriate. Running 0w20 in a vintage Alfa might give you low pressure issues. But beyond that, it's not that big of a deal. If you have a special use case, things obviously change. I use a synthetic because they are better for turbocharged cars as synthetic is though to have more resistance to having deposits "cook" onto hot turbo components after shutdown.
 

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The "reduced ZDDP" mania has been going on for at least the past ten years. The scare stories have been persistent enough that it's actually used as a marketing tool now. But where are the pictures of all of the destroyed cams and lifters directly and irrefutably linked to reduced zinc in motor oils?

Nowhere to be found.

I remember when people were convinced that unleaded fuel was going to destroy their engine which, again, was ultimately used in marketing by selling people another additive.
 

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I use fully leaded gas car is jetted as per factory for a 64' 1600 (1) station is down the street (2)a personal preference but..... the AFR and Lambda Measurements are spot on. Oil choice is a feel good decision. Do I really think ethanol mixed fuels, oil synthetics are detrimental to the point of failure (NO)! At the end of the day it is the way I spend my money..... :grin2:
 
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