[GTV4EVR]

Or is there such a thing? Every GTV I've owned since 1969 ran with the needle on the temp gauge straight up - 175 regardless of ambient temp and traffic conditions. My "new" car (74 GTV) runs at 195 unless I'm in traffic, then it goes up to 212 on the gauge. This is with an air temperature of 55 - 65F. I know some folks say 195 is normal, and some say 175 is normal. Should I be concerned when I hit 212 when it isn't warm out?

Thanks....

 

[lowmileage]

Mines stays right at the 175 marker and its using IAP's thermostat that I bought last year when I did a flush along with a change of hoses. I don't see any reason for a early model 1970 car to run anywhere near 200 unless there is a cooling problem. Thermostats of that era were 180's weren't they? In the 80's I know they were going with 195's cause they were making cars run hotter due to emissions.

 

[144]

Spica injected cars need to run at least 175 degrees for the injection system to function correctly. DO NOT put a 165 thermostat in a Spica engine. If you're engine is overheating and the thermostat is functioning normally, it's not the thermostat causing the problem. Also, removing the thermostat will often times cause an overheating problem to actually get worse.

A 185 deg thermostat is preferable in a Spica system. A healthy engine normally runs with the needle about straight up unless it's hot and you're stuck in traffic or running at high speed. In those cases, 210 wouldn't be unusual.

 

[Franco D]

Greetings, new to this excellent forum. It's been quite a few years since being active with Alfas, which is in the midst of changing.

When bringing back a 74 GTV from Colorado (high altitude) to NY, the thermostat needed to be changed from a lower setting up to 185. Then all returned back to normal and was fine.

auguri,
Franco

 

[endel]

I run at 175 almost 95% of the time, whether it's a hot summer day or a cool fall day. I have had it run up to around 200+ on the turnpike, but the gauge twitched for a second and settled right back to 175-180. Having that occur, I'm going to run a temp check of the coolant itself with a meat thermometer when the gauge says "175".

PS: I'm running carbs

 

[rogerspeed]

Or is there such a thing? Every GTV I've owned since 1969 ran with the needle on the temp gauge straight up - 175 regardless of ambient temp and traffic conditions. My "new" car (74 GTV) runs at 195 unless I'm in traffic, then it goes up to 212 on the gauge. This is with an air temperature of 55 - 65F. I know some folks say 195 is normal, and some say 175 is normal. Should I be concerned when I hit 212 when it isn't warm out?

Thanks....

YES. I've had four SPICA Berlina's and a built Weber Spider in the last six years and they all ran spot-on consistantly in the 175-195 range, even in hot weather. Unless you are running A/C in very hot weather, in traffic, 212 is not normal. It could be something simple like the fan belt not tight enough, do you have a complete fan shroud? or someting more serious, on a SPICA motor there is a fine line between the right mixture and too lean, too lean will run hot and under hard driving conditions in hot weather you can blow the engine, or with Webers the classic leaky rubber mounts lean out the mixture and there goes the engine. Is the waterpump good? I've seen cars with not much left of the impellor, could the radiator use a tank and rod job? Have you tried a an infer-red thermometer to acertain the true tempture? I would not let it go on unchecked.

 

[GTV4EVR]

Thanks for the comments. The engine was rebuilt 7000 miles ago. I've put about 2500 miles on it since I got it and it has always run hot. It has been converted to Webers, has Motronic pistons and CB47 cams. It looks like it may have the Bosch thermostat installed. It has an electric pusher fan (and no shroud). If it makes a difference, it is also burning oil (1 quart per 250 - 300 miles). No air conditioning, just the opposite; to keep the engine temperature down as much as possible I have the heater going full blast in traffic. The heater works very well

 

[gprocket]

On my '69 Spider I've had three different motors in it in the last twelve months. All of them read around 195 - 200 on the gauge in the car. None of the motors were close to overheating. My conclusion is that the gauge is off. One of these days I'll get around to check on that...

 

[endel]

Burning oil

That seems to be excessive... is it burning ( blue smoke) or leaking? I also would suggest using a shroud, as it makes a huge difference. Any weak hoses collapsing? Just seems like WAY TOO MUCH oil to go through on a very fresh engine.

Thanks for the comments. The engine was rebuilt 7000 miles ago. I've put about 2500 miles on it since I got it and it has always run hot. It has been converted to Webers, has Motronic pistons and CB47 cams. It looks like it may have the Bosch thermostat installed. It has an electric pusher fan (and no shroud). If it makes a difference, it is also burning oil (1 quart per 250 - 300 miles). No air conditioning, just the opposite; to keep the engine temperature down as much as possible I have the heater going full blast in traffic. The heater works very well

 

[GTV4EVR]

I swapped in an different instrument cluster. It showed 175F in another car, but shows 195F in this car. I'm going to take an IR reading off the thermostat housing tomorrow to confirm the accuracy.

 

[GTV4EVR]

That seems to be excessive... is it burning ( blue smoke) or leaking? I also would suggest using a shroud, as it makes a huge difference. Any weak hoses collapsing? Just seems like WAY TOO MUCH oil to go through on a very fresh engine.

It's burning (and leaking). Lots of blue smoke on acceleration. The problem is rings on cylinder 2 (200, 135, 200, 200) so the engine will be coming out in the spring. I don't think the shroud makes any difference with an electric pusher fan. The rad hoses look good.

 

[endel]

I look forward to seeing what the IR readings are. Those devices are very accurate and can tell you a lot.

 

[GTV4EVR]

Well, if it's valid to take a reading off the thermostat housing, it looks like the gauge may be reaing about 20 degrees high. I had the same problem with my other GTV when I got a new sending unit from Centerline. When the gauge was reading around 212, the IR read 195 at the thermostat. I got readings of around 205 from the fins of the rad.

 

[lowmileage]

to keep the engine temperature down as much as possible I have the heater going full blast in traffic.

That's what I have to do in our Jeep Cherokee in heavy stop and (sometimes) go traffic. Fun doing in the summer isn't it

 

[GTV4EVR]

That's what I have to do in our Jeep Cherokee in heavy stop and (sometimes) go traffic. Fun doing in the summer isn't it

I'm glad the hood opens the way it does. In traffic, I open the hood to let some heat out too. I wasn't running on all cylinders when I turned the heater on and I had it pumping the hot air on my legs. I eventually realized I would be more comfortable with it on full defrost.

 

[lowmileage]

I'm glad the hood opens the way it does. In traffic, I open the hood to let some heat out too. I wasn't running on all cylinders when I turned the heater on and I had it pumping the hot air on my legs. I eventually realized I would be more comfortable with it on full defrost.

In the Jeep, I still keep the windows shut even with the heater on - not wanting to be embarrassed in keeping the windows open so others think I don't have air conditioning