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Took mine out for a drive today, got back to the shop and adjusted the idle, and was going to go out for another drive to check the new idle setting when the car started to stutter (the computer was cutting the fuel) look down and my temp gauge was at 250F.

Lucky I was less then a block and uphill from the shop so I was able the turn around, shut off the engine and coast back home while listening to my coolant boiling and hissing out of the expansion tank.

Found out that my cooling fans aren't working, when I was adjusting the idle the temp was climbing to the boiling point.

After it cooled down I took it for a ride around the block, everything seems fine except the fans still didn't work and would have over heated again.

Now it's time to run some tests to see why the fans aren't working.
 

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Now it's time to run some tests to see why the fans aren't working.
make sure both fans turn freely by hand...
remove the 2 wires to the sender on the radiator and join them together, key on...do fans work now?
if yes, the sender is bad (or connections bad at the sender, check/clean these first before condemming it)

if no, check the the relay (the white one with the built in fuse, 2nd position from left, top)...I have seen these relays with melted fuses (fuse should be a 30A)

sender PN is: alfa 60506988
 

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make sure both fans turn freely by hand...
remove the 2 wires to the sender on the radiator and join them together, key on...do fans work now?
if yes, the sender is bad (or connections bad at the sender, check/clean these first before condemming it)

if no, check the the relay (the white one with the built in fuse, 2nd position from left, top)...I have seen these relays with melted fuses (fuse should be a 30A)

sender PN is: alfa 60506988
Believe I found the problem, a broken connector on the power line to the fans.

I have an after market ECU so the way it's works is there is a coolant sensor that gets 5 volts from the ECU, as the sensor heats up the resistance goes down and the sensor passes the output voltage ECU and the ECU sends power to the cooling fans. The connection that broke was the that output line to the fans.

The coolant temp sensor that controls the fans is mounted on the coolant manifold on the head. Not my idea, just where they mounted it. It's the one with the blue electrical connector.

What I did was trace the route of the OP wire from the ECU and confirmed it with a continuity test.

Haven't tested it yet but pretty sure that was the problem.

Another thing that I need to check is the dummy high temp light never lite durning the over heating, that sensor is on top of the head so it maybe toast. The light turns on when the ignition is turn on and goes off as it should. The dash temp gauge works fine.
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Beautiful spider in matching santa color but can you really see the road behind you in the passenger rear view mirror?
Um, that was a mistake on my part. The mirror couldn't be placed correctly in the original position, so I flipped it, thinking this would work. It's worse.

But then, as Franco said in The Gumball Rally:
And now my friend, the first-a rule of Italian driving. What's-a behind me is not important.
 

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Um, that was a mistake on my part. The mirror couldn't be placed correctly in the original position, so I flipped it, thinking this would work. It's worse.

But then, as Franco said in The Gumball Rally:
And now my friend, the first-a rule of Italian driving. What's-a behind me is not important.
I completely agree!!!
 

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Um, that was a mistake on my part. The mirror couldn't be placed correctly in the original position, so I flipped it, thinking this would work. It's worse.
For the small round mirrors, the passenger-side mirror needs a little modification for you to be able to position it so that it works. In my case, I used a Dremel tool with a pointed grinding tip to grind away some of the base material where the mirror shaft passes through the base. This allows a little more range of motion for the mirror so that it can be positioned correctly. This tip was given to me by @David O'D and has worked great.
 

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For the small round mirrors, the passenger-side mirror needs a little modification for you to be able to position it so that it works. In my case, I used a Dremel tool with a pointed grinding tip to grind away some of the base material where the mirror shaft passes through the base. This allows a little more range of motion for the mirror so that it can be positioned correctly. This tip was given to me by @David O'D and has worked great.
Thanks, I knew something was off!

As I am an "Italian Car Driver", not an "Italian Driver", the whole "What's-a-Behind me Doesn't-A-Matter" isn't a-totally true!.

Mo in NJ
 

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I connect the battery and started the engine today. I had to let the spider set for a couple of weeks so I disconnected the battery. Good news she started up in two turns of the engine and ran smooth. I took on the freeway and ran her at 75 mph ..... smooth as glass, took on a few twists and was loving it. I have to get it smog next month so it seems she is running well enough to pass. We will see!





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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I've spent this week replacing the crank gasket, distributor o ring. Replacing spark plug wires, and getting the AC done with new condenser.
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Spent a beautiful day yesterday replacing all of the radiator hoses to solve a coolant leak. Cold and dreary today, but I still drove the Spider to work.
 

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Today I started the process of removing the passager side front spring so I can install a deep well pan.

Using 4 threaded rod because I'm scared of that 1,200 lb spring. Boy, what a mess that big boy would make if it popped out under compression!

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I finally updated by blog after about 4 months of fixes. I am now able to use Lola as a semi-daily driver... though much work remains.


Steve
 
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