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gave my ZF box lash adjustment in the spider 3/8 turn tighter ; really helped calm down the wander from the road crown and grooves. Im trying to dial it in as loose as possible but to remove as much slop as I can... I did follow the Tech bulletin on setting the play ; and that got me pretty close...
 

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I got the car out of the shop yesterday for what turned out to be several idiot light connectors coming loose and causing my fuel gauge to punk out. $$$ since the dash and center console had to be removed. Again. Also learned my rings are, um, not seating correclty and will likely need to be replaced. Main bearing is making noise according to someone I unfortunately trust with such things. Got my fuel gauge back though but they reversed the level and low tank light wires so I ran out of gas on the highway in 90+ heat! Took the backroads and was able to hear a new muffled grinding sound that's present at any speed. Diff? Axle bearing?

Got home and decided to fix my slightly bent bumper and repair the license plate light that broke way from the fixture. Got the bumper in better shape but "found" another short while reattaching the lights and now the parking lights are out! Was still 90+ in my garage at 11 PM when I gave up.
@papajam thanks for the wiring diagram!
 

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Got home and decided to fix my slightly bent bumper and repair the license plate light that broke way from the fixture. Got the bumper in better shape but "found" another short while reattaching the lights and now the parking lights are out! Was still 90+ in my garage at 11 PM when I gave up.
Figured out the electrical issue and it wasn't at all what I thought was going to be: a nightmare of hunting down a short in the light wiring harness. I used my 25-year old 12v circuit tester and stuck it between the negative post and lead. Played with all the switches to see what was keeping the tester's light burning. Turns out the headlight stalks switch shorts unless you hold it slightly back from its natural resting state. So, time to take the column apart and try to figure out a way to avoid spending $469 to replace.

Same problem:https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-105-115-series-1966-1994/259002-headlight-problem.html#post4938953
 

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Drove it first time after being in Europe for 6 weeks, but frst replaced the battery of un known age...it was "old" when I bought the car 3.5 yrs ago....
 

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Dreaded "Check Engine Light"......

On Saturday, while heading out to an AROC Capitol Chapter drive in N. Virginia, my check engine light came on, then off, then on again.........Decided the better part of valor was not being 100+ miles from home and service with some gremlin potentially lurking. Car was driving great, and all gauges normal.

Had time to bring it up to Paul at Difatta's today. We ran the codes, with only 1224 registering. After checking the system, most likely culprit was the O2 sensor. When I came back after lunch, Paul was done, and showed me the original O2 sensor he replaced--definitely past it prime. Spider now runs great, and a 50 mile drive back showed no sign of the problem. Acceleration was in fact better--I just hadn't noticed the degraded performance as the sensor was failing.

All in all, disappointed about missing the drive, but glad the problem appears to have been a specific, 25+ year old part.

Ready for the next outing!
 

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Put the car up on stands last night.

We ran our 500+/- mile rally up the coast a couple of weeks ago. The only new addition on the "to do" list is to replace the intermittent speedo cable. Made us guesstimate speed and a few turns, but that's part of the charm of vintage drives.

I was all set to replace the copper tubing fuel line (from the prev owner) with proper steel stuff, so perfect time to put in the speedo cable. Hope it arrives tomorrow. The older I get, the less eager I am to climb under a car.
 

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Took a picture with its garage mate.......
Nice! Go to Home Depot and buy a piece of 4x8 foot white plastic or coated wall panel. You can have them cut it in half or to whatever size you want. Stick it under your cars to catch leaks. Always lays flat. Cleans right off. Never needs replacement. Cheapest solution EVER!
 

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I replaced my 10" electric pusher fan (~800 CFM) from a previous owner with a 12" 1200 CFM version - works great!

While I was at it, I thought "Hmmm... what if the thermal switch fails??", so I provided a second wire by-passing the existing thermal switch, intending to add a second thermal switch elsewhere.

This weekend, I got around to installing a second thermal switch, and thought "Hey, it would be nice to cool the engine after the car's shut off..." so I ran a fused power lead for the new thermal switch to the main lead from the battery.

All seemed to work, until I drove to work on a 90 degree F day. When I arrived, the key would not shut off the engine! Classic back-feed issue! Both thermal switches were closed, and so the +12 from the main was back feeding the ignition circuit. (Plucking the fuse stopped the engine).

The previous owner had powered the fan directly from the ignition circuit, so my job tonight is to install a fan relay to break that feed path... An electric fan should be relay-isolated from the ignition anyhow!
 

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You have to scratch your head at some previous owner wiring. Gets more interesting with more previous owners having had their hands in it.

So thankful for info nowadays and diagrams from Papajam or Prosperos garage. I never would have figured out the blue wires on the wiper circuit.
 

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Magnets! Part one

I always use the boot cover for my spider to keep dust and grit out but was so tired of those stupid clips, which were also starting to break with age. Then I got the bright idea that I could retrofit a different method of attachment: magnets! I bought a pack of small bar shaped neodymium magnets, the real sticky kind, and experimented.
 

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Magnets! Part Two Well, my sewing skills are limited and the thick vinyl didn't allow for a lot of hold so I decided to take the idea to an upholster. He attached them to the underside of the boot and attached the magnets with fiberglass screen for more direct contact. Then he seamed the edge to keep everything in place. Works incredibly well. No more fussing with those clips.
 

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Sfizio,
That’s awesome! Have you driven on the highway with 80+ speeds? If so, and it worked, I’d consider this idea right away. Thanks!
 

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Took the day off yesterday and did almost 400 miles from Houston thru the Texas Hill Country and back for a 2nd shakedown (the 1st shakedown was the break-in). It was hotter-than-hell outside but it didn't seem to bother her like it did me.

She cruised smoothly at 85 mph at 4,500 RPM and I bumped it to up to 100 mph a couple of times. For the most part, I ran her up to 5K or 6K RPM on upshifts so I didn't take it easy on her. The resulting MPG was in the low 20s. The only problem encountered was the hood kept popping open when I would hit a bump at speed so there is some adjustment to be made there but otherwise I'm very satisfied. I'm planning on driving The Twisted Sisters (google it) when the temperature turns later this year.

Closer to home I ran up on a new Giulia and flashed my high-beams then pulled up alongside and, despite a friendly honk, the guy wouldn't even glance at me. What's up with these nouveau Alfa owners?
 

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Sfizio,
That’s awesome! Have you driven on the highway with 80+ speeds? If so, and it worked, I’d consider this idea right away. Thanks!

Thanks, Yachtman. I've not yet done the wind tunnel tests, just got it back last night, but I will and get back to you. I did wonder about that initially but the strength of the magnets are so strong, I'm really not concerned. I also saved the original clips, which I might use at the leading edge on each side in the event that there are any issues but really 16 magnets should do the trick.
 

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Thanks, Yachtman. I've not yet done the wind tunnel tests, just got it back last night, but I will and get back to you. I did wonder about that initially but the strength of the magnets are so strong, I'm really not concerned. I also saved the original clips, which I might use at the leading edge on each side in the event that there are any issues but really 16 magnets should do the trick.
I have a motorcycle tank bag that is secured only by magnets which has yet to give way at speeds well over 80 MPH. The magnets are sewn into thick canvas flaps that lay over the side of the tank.
 
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