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12 " 1/2 inch drive ratchet/ 22mm socket - I was able to get just enough purchase on the bolt to move it 2 inches - reset wrench - then did it three times. I was able to back it out with my fingers after that. I would wear a long sleeve short when doing this. My arms look a little chewed up. It is a PITA - but doable. Also - cold engine is recommended! I flushed water from the thermostat and radiator watching it come out the block drain. Used a anti-seize on it when it went back in. It is tight but not overly tight.
Replaced the radiator cap with solid pressure now - ran for 45 minutes at 94 degrees F today at 60 mph. Car still overheats - time to pull the radiator...
 

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Pulled all the body tools out of storage.
I think the small air compressor will suffice for cutting panels off but I will have to move the car to the other shop or get another large air compressor after the panels are welded.
Thinking I am going to look for some sort of converter/preventer to flood the sills with then leave them alone since they seem sound.
Fender patches and nose repair are enough work.

Also decided that the Spiders are the only cars I am keeping for myself that do not or will not have flip front ends.
 

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(Yesterday) drove it, then wiped her off as I got surprised by heave rain shower
 

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I continued to perform an under hood cleaning and detailing in general. Had to wipe more pollen from interior surfaces after a 45 minute ride around town last week. Used a spray body detailer on the exterior body to remove pollen and debris. Then I took it out for a 12 mile twisty road ride. At that point, with the heat rising, retreated to spend the rest of the day inside.
 

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Got my motor almost ready to pull over the weekend. Turbo manifold and turbo out, intercooler piping, radiator out, intake manifold out, dropped driveshaft, removed shifter, bagged and labeled hardware/wiring.

The only thing that really got in my way were the stupid ring clips holding the clutch slave on. Had to order a bigger set of snap ring pliers on Amazon, as my 8 inch pair just could get them open wide enough.
 

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Finally Started Assembling My High Horsepower (hopefully!) 2L Motor For My 74 Spider AutoX Restoration Project. The Local Machine Shop Has Been Taking Way Too Much Time To Do Balance & Seat Work (not an alfa shop). I've Done Everything I Can Think Of On This Motor (cams/pistons/rods/valves/porting/crank/ignition/carbs/flywheel/etc./etc.)

-John
 

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Ordered more parts!

Also did a search for likely replacement tie-rod ends to use as upper ball joints for my custom A arms, #ES2065L looks like they should work.
 

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Took the Spider out for a nice drive and brought it to the local car wash to vacuum the interior.
 

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I just had mine exhaust installed by local independent muffler shop. He had to fabricate the flange from the aft side of CAT. he cut it off the old muffler and welded it together. I replaced the center section and rear section. Yes the fitting kit from Classic has everything. I bought the center section from Amazon and the rear from Classic. Labor was $180 / about 3 hours. No rust or metal in my eyes!
 

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Took advantage of a break in the summer heat and brought the Spider to the Annapolis City Dock "Cars & Coffee" this morning. Very big turnout today, and another red S4 Spider turned up as well! Great setting in good weather, with a interesting mix of Italian exotics, British and German makes. A Triumph TR250 was a big hit--same owner for 56 years.
 

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Pled with a fellow back east to keep his Spider race car shell Alfa powered rather than some sort of CENSORED! engine swap.

Got ready to put my rusty Spider on stands to begin the body repairs. About the time I make real progress on that the guy with the ex-racer may relent and sell it to me?

Made payment for the shipment of a load of Alfa parts I recently bought back east.

Started looking around to see what parts/cars I might convince myself to part with in order to regain space and funding.
 

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Completed moving the two Spiders around.
Black 79 (Engine work) is out of the way in an alcove but can easily be rolled forward to work on it.
Stripped 78 is moved away from the wall so that I get to all sides of it.
Took the bonnet off and reminded myself where I left off.
Going to refit the rebuilt Dellorto's and get it running.
Ran before but poorly, the carbs were gummed up from the car sitting a long time.
Should run much better this time around. :)
Oh, and despite not being able to find any numbers on the cams I know they must be pretty high-lift as the cam follower bores have been notched for clearance. :D
So if the engine is good I hope to do the body rust repairs and make it a driver.

That brings me to questions.
I have a full set of patch panels, made in Canada so I'm guessing Wolf brand.
Most are evident where they go but couple need to be identified.
The BIGGER question, I have rust at the usual wheel well corners but none apparent at the sills below the doors.
Should I still strip off the sills and replace the middle rockers anyway?
Most of my apparent rust is only the lower three inches or so.
Passenger side behind the front wheel is the worst spot with the end of the middle rocker looking thin.
If the lower patch panels are not too hard then my nose repair will be the biggest challenge.

Not making this one a show car, I intend to drive it hard.
Now keeping the body spares I have in case I need them after an "OOPS!".

I know there should be detailed threads here on rocker repair here, not finding them. :(

Richard,
Did you do the rebuild on the dellortos? If so, or if not, would you tell me the details, please?!
Thanks,
😎
 

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Yes I rebuilt the Dellorto's myself.
Had to MAKE a couple of small parts on the lathe as they are no longer available.

The DHLA's should work as well as Weber but parts are not as readily available and some not at all despite an international search.
Few DHLA parts in the U.S.
 

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Today was a good day.
Realized that my euro headlight harness was not miswired (before I ripped it all apart) but instead I didn't know how to turn on the headlights on my spider (turn the knob like on a Toyota, not flipping the level up).
Then I found the source of my 16v electric on the car was not a bad regulator but a weak battery in my multimeter (again, before I ripped the car apart).

Inching closer to being able to drive this car to Olympia next month.
 

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Got the bodywork intensive Spider up on stands so I can sit on a roll-around cart to work on it.
Much more comfortable than sliding around on the ground.
Still debating cutting into the rockers under the doors as they appear to be fine.
Also listed one of my project Triumph GT6's and a Spitfire Mk. IV for sale on some other forums.
If those sell I will have the funds to rebuild an engine for my '79 Spider.
 
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