Alfa Romeo Forums banner

441 - 460 of 1918 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
I have been taking care of all the little bugs on my 91 S4
Removed the radio to see if I can adjust the 3 A/C vents closer to the dash, which had a 1/4" gap and squeaked excessively.
Removed the vent bezel and found the upper center metal tab was loose and not holding upper bezel tight to dash.
Also found the rubber A/C vent hose's on left and right sides disconnected which accounts for the loss of air flow from the center vents with A/C
blower on.
After scraping up my hands pretty good, I was able to get the rubber hoses back on and re secured the vent bezel by bending the metal tab
to draw the bezel in tighter to the dash.
Fits nice now with no more gap or squeaks.
The PO actually took it to an Alfa Dealer years ago for this condition and after trying to fix it, told him to stick a piece of cardboard
in the gap to stop the squeak! haha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
I also had a buzz throughout the body at a certain engine rpm which I isolated to the lower engine oil pan sitting on the oil pan guard.
I removed the oil pan guard and the buzz is gone.
There is a mark on either end of the oil pan guard where the oil pan was contacting.

I guess it's time for new motor mounts and I will probably shim the oil pan guard down by 1/4" or so.

Should the guard normally be shimmed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
Normally no shims. You have diagnosed the most likely cause - sagging engine mounts. But also, the sump guard can get bent pretty easily in serving its function. Take it off - you'll need to anyway to replace the engine mounts - and carefully inspect for bent parts.

BTW - look at the rear transmission mount as well.

Robert
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Hey Huzz. I gained over an inch of clearance on my 91 between the pan guard and the pan when I installed new engine and transmission mounts. Along with a significant improvement in drivability and ease of shifting esp 2nd gear. Feels like a different car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Service Baseline for 1993 Spider Veloce

Got my Spider back Friday after getting a complete check of the engine/performance/alignment etc. I've driven the car "gently" since it arrived from California until I could get a good assessment on all the systems. There were few service records with the Spider, so I knew I needed to get it set up right and begin a service history.

Good news was no major problems or issues--the Spider is as rust-free as hoped, but still found a few surprises. The front end had been repaired--could see the welds with the car up on the lift--and the hood was replaced with that repair. The engine mounts were also shot.

Overall the Spider mostly needed standard maintence items for a car of this age--servicing the valves, replacing several belts and gaskets, spark plugs, door seals, realignment, adjust the tie rods and change the oil. The improvement in how the Spider drove was outstanding! I also feel a lot more confident, knowing the engine, transmission, brakes, suspension and steering are set and ready for the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
You should also drain and replace the transmission and differential. Redline 70/90 NS (?) is the recommended oil to use in both. You should fine the tx shifting much better. 14 mm and 17 mm allen hex wrenches are needed for this.

While the car is up on the lift to do this, lube the drive shaft u-joints (most of them have zerk fittings for a standard grease gun). Some cars have zerks on the tie rod ends and front ball joints as well. They can be installed if they don't by a good "old-school" mechanic. Inspect the rubber "Gubio" ring at the end of the TX. This piece often cracks and can fail an really surprising times. Several of the usual suppliers sell a BMW- derived drive flex joint that is MUCH stronger.

Then have the cooling system drained, flushed and refilled. This should be done every two years anyway. Lots of crud accumulates in our aging cooling systems.

If you have a competent Alfa mechanic, have the head retorqued. This can head-off a head gasket leak, but must be done very correctly.

Finally, get a really good brake fluid flush and replacement, with a really well done brake bleeding will keep the system in good shape. Most brake fluids absorb water slowly, and over a few years can rust the brake lines (from the inside) and the caliper pistons pretty badly. This is another one that should be replaced every two years.
Dot 5.1 brake fluid is suitable for most applications. Avoid the "Pure Silicon" (DOT 5) brake fluids as this stuff causes serious problems with rubber seals in some Alfa brake systems.

Good luck.

Robert
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
355 Posts
Cold in Connecticut. Convertible season is over. :crying2:
I still hope for a warm day or two. Ready to uncover and roll.

John

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
It's cold here also in Northern Jersey, but I'm not tucking her in for the winter yet!
I have sorted through and fixed all the very minor issues I've uncovered since taking possession of her
earlier this month and plan on doing the usual belts, hoses, fluids, mounts etc at my leisure. But I have one last
item that needs to be addressed now that all the minor items are identified or corrected, and that is a very prominent
metallic rattle noise from the left front fender area while driving on normal roads with no harsh bumps.
I thought it might be the hood prop rod or the loose and worn door stop, but how knows!
I borrowed a set of Chassis Ears from a guy at work, so thats what I plan on doing this Sunday.
The car's in unbelievable shape and I feel very fortunate to have it in my garage!
it definitely found a good home!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
Most brake fluids absorb water slowly, and over a few years can rust the brake lines (from the inside) and the caliper pistons pretty badly. This is another one that should be replaced every two years.
Dot 5.1 brake fluid is suitable for most applications. Avoid the "Pure Silicon" (DOT 5) brake fluids as this stuff causes serious problems with rubber seals in some Alfa brake systems.

Good luck.

Robert
DOT 5 is only bad for ABS systems because if forms air bubbles with agitation. The seals will be fine, and this is a great way to save your paint. Seals aren't prone to fail with silicone fluid any more than regular DOT3, 4 or 5.1. It's good stuff and there's a ton of myths out there about it. I've had it in my TR6 since the early 90's. It rocks, and when your aftermarket brake or clutch master dies slowly with out you noticing, it won't eat your paint.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
128 Posts
Busy Alfa Day. Went to the leather store and bought materials and supplies so I can make my own replacement straps and what nots. Installed new door guide lugs. Then got bicycle brake cable and housing so I can make back ups for trunk and hood. Got little rubber grommets also. Washed car. Applied Rustoleum Wipe New to the side view mirror housings and duck tail to try and bring the black back (1st and third pics- really made a difference on the housing that attaches to the car door). Then waxed the car with Turtle Wax Jet Black Black Box Finish kit (see SHINY mirror like finish in pic two).

Took about two hours to do the last two items. So far both products appear to have made a difference. I have a bad trunk deck where some crazy PO apparently placed a can of paint thinner and rag.... it's so sad to look at (pic 4- also shows hand dent-not from me- :crying2:.. but it actually looks better now- you'll have to take my word for it).

Accomplished a lot considering I also did my black friday shopping.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,861 Posts
It's cold here also in Northern Jersey, but I'm not tucking her in for the winter yet!
I have sorted through and fixed all the very minor issues I've uncovered since taking possession of her
earlier this month and plan on doing the usual belts, hoses, fluids, mounts etc at my leisure. But I have one last
item that needs to be addressed now that all the minor items are identified or corrected, and that is a very prominent
metallic rattle noise from the left front fender area while driving on normal roads with no harsh bumps.
I thought it might be the hood prop rod or the loose and worn door stop, but how knows!
I borrowed a set of Chassis Ears from a guy at work, so thats what I plan on doing this Sunday.
The car's in unbelievable shape and I feel very fortunate to have it in my garage!
it definitely found a good home!!
Where in NJ are you located?

Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
355 Posts
Saturday was yet another unusually warm day, in the 60's. After the Christmas decorations were up, we did a 20 minute top down run at 3:15 pm.

JR

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,214 Posts
Well, I went to back the S4 out of the driveway last night, noticed I had no brake lights flashing. The fuse was fine, since the interior lights worked on the same circuit. I looked in my backup parts stash I bought from IAP waaaay back when, and behold a brake light switch!

I put some pliers on the old one, turned it out of the slots in the tab, plugged in the new one and tried to rotate it back into the locking slots. Man-- very tight fit! Not wanting to break the new switch, I put a dab of lithium grease on the three small fingers that fit into the slots, put the pliers on it and it rotated into place. Pushed the switch down a bit to ensure the lights would go out. Presto - chango... brake lights.

But I'm still postponing the heater core R&R on my trusty little Nissan pickup... :surprise:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
At lest it's not the heater in your Alfa. That has to be done of the hardest pieces to get at. You nearly have to disassemble the entire interior and dash to get at it. And that always risks damaging the not-high-reliability heater valve!

>:)

Robert
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
At 61 degrees.........

Too nice today here in the DC area to fail to get the Spider out with the top down! Had a good excuse as I took the car in to get the convertible top replaced. The interior of the top was shot with dry rot, the seals were cracked and the rear window plastic had a tear that only drew attention to how much it was yellowed and cloudy.

Enjoyed a nice run around Annapolis, then up to Baltimore for the work. Will post a picture when I get it back.
 
441 - 460 of 1918 Posts
Top