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Also this rubber piece under the shifter handle. If it slightly looks like its about to break. Go ahead and replace it. They break and fall of. When that happens its lets the shifter plates on top rattle around.


 
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Now for the third job after pulling the center console out. Clean the carpet. First photo is the clean carpet. The second photo is 30 plus years of dust and dirt. Since no one makes a molded one piece replacement carpet I really want to preserve the original one.

The next project is the mirror joy stick. There is a great step by step someone made with pictures on how to take it apart and clean it and put it back together.

I forgot the fuel gauge did not have any nuts holding the little hold down bar. That was a PITA. I also had a couple of broke rivets on the center column cover that I replaced. The inside panels were dirty and greasy too. All cleaned up and ready to
Be installed.

One last little item the cigarette lighter light is not working. I will give that a go to.


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Also this rubber piece under the shifter handle. If it slightly looks like its about to break. Go ahead and replace it. They break and fall of. When that happens its lets the shifter plates on top rattle around.


Thank you this has been very helpful.

I have an additional question. I had to disconnect my horns. When I was turning the steering wheel hard the horns were sounding. I was told that the spring was worn out or broken. Since I was putting an order together with Classic do you know what part this is?


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Now for the third job after pulling the center console out. Clean the carpet. First photo is the clean carpet. The second photo is 30 plus years of dust and dirt. Since no one makes a molded one piece replacement carpet I really want to preserve the original one.

The next project is the mirror joy stick. There is a great step by step someone made with pictures on how to take it apart and clean it and put it back together.

I forgot the fuel gauge did not have any nuts holding the little hold down bar. That was a PITA. I also had a couple of broke rivets on the center column cover that I replaced. The inside panels were dirty and greasy too. All cleaned up and ready to
Be installed.

One last little item the cigarette lighter light is not working. I will give that a go to.


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The cleaned carpet looks great, Ken. Wish I still had the original oatmeal carpets . . . .

David OD
Laguna CA
 

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1986 Spider Graduate
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You have tackled a lot of fiddly work! Congratulations and continued success with your next projects. Please continue with the photos. They are very helpful!!!
 

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Thank you this has been very helpful.

I have an additional question. I had to disconnect my horns. When I was turning the steering wheel hard the horns were sounding. I was told that the spring was worn out or broken. Since I was putting an order together with Classic do you know what part this is?


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The horn rings on the black spoke wheels (82 to 85) are different from the earlier ones. (72 to 81) If you notice one of your 3 horn buttons is either staying down or has less resistance then the others. This is because instead of being a one pieces 3 spoke horn button. They made 3 individual horn buttons made into and assembly. Yes. It is usually a spring in the base that breaks. You have to take the wheel off then remove the horn button assembly from the wheel to even look in there.

I've never messed with trying to fix one. Back in the day when you could get them we would just put a new one on. They were not cheap and a lot of customers would wrap a rubber band around the spoke and horn arm to hold it against the spoke. But allow the horn arm to still be used.

I have to fix the one on my car. So I'll be attempting to figure out a solution. But I have to build the engine first and get it back on the road. Its also a 71 spider. The original owner (who owned the shop I worked at like the later black spoke wheels because the rim is thicker the the earlier ones. Since the 71's came with plastic wheels. I'll probably put the really nice 73 wheel I have from my first Alfa that got totaled it 1988. The 72, 73 and early 74 wheels had a much lighter color to them. 74 and later ones are darker like yours.
 

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Finally got my gold 87 off jack stands following replacing of some fuel lines, vacuum hoses, and throttle linkage. And… it actually all seems to work which if you’ve seen my posts before following lots of changes usually isn’t the case for me.
 

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The horn rings on the black spoke wheels (82 to 85) are different from the earlier ones. (72 to 81) If you notice one of your 3 horn buttons is either staying down or has less resistance then the others. This is because instead of being a one pieces 3 spoke horn button. They made 3 individual horn buttons made into and assembly. Yes. It is usually a spring in the base that breaks. You have to take the wheel off then remove the horn button assembly from the wheel to even look in there.

I've never messed with trying to fix one. Back in the day when you could get them we would just put a new one on. They were not cheap and a lot of customers would wrap a rubber band around the spoke and horn arm to hold it against the spoke. But allow the horn arm to still be used.

I have to fix the one on my car. So I'll be attempting to figure out a solution. But I have to build the engine first and get it back on the road. Its also a 71 spider. The original owner (who owned the shop I worked at like the later black spoke wheels because the rim is thicker the the earlier ones. Since the 71's came with plastic wheels. I'll probably put the really nice 73 wheel I have from my first Alfa that got totaled it 1988. The 72, 73 and early 74 wheels had a much lighter color to them. 74 and later ones are darker like yours.
Jim,
Thank you for your reply. This is very good information. I think I will try the rubber ban to see how it works.


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This thread should be called “What work have you done on your Alfa Romeo for the last 3 days”

Mine started Saturday when I got the injectors back from being cleaned and the report said # 3 was stuck wide open. ***, another injector either dripping, reduced flow or stuck wide open! Time to check the fuel system and think about how old the fuel is!

Ohhh shoot, the 93 octane pump fuel is not non-ethanol and how long has it been in there?

1. Put the Alfa on jack sands.
2. Change out the 24,000 mile and 14 year old fuel filter.
3. Cut open and inspect the fuel filter.
4. Change the oil and filter since who knows how long that injector was stuck wide open?
5. Pull the in-tank pump out and pump out the remaining 1/4 tank of 6 month old ethanol fuel.
6. Inspect the gas tank for rust or debris, put it all back together.
7. Install the cleaned injectors and put the fuel rail and air box back on.
8. Buy fresh 91 non-ethanol fuel and 110 leaded race fuel, blend, add FI cleaner and pour into gas tank.
9. Take off the jack stands.

Ready to take her out again.😊
 

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This thread should be called “What work have you done on your Alfa Romeo for the last 3 days”

Mine started Saturday when I got the injectors back from being cleaned and the report said # 3 was stuck wide open. ***, another injector either dripping, reduced flow or stuck wide open! Time to check the fuel system and think about how old the fuel is!

Ohhh shoot, the 93 octane pump fuel is not non-ethanol and how long has it been in there?

1. Put the Alfa on jack sands.
2. Change out the 24,000 mile and 14 year old fuel filter.
3. Cut open and inspect the fuel filter.
4. Change the oil and filter since who knows how long that injector was stuck wide open?
5. Pull the in-tank pump out and pump out the remaining 1/4 tank of 6 month old ethanol fuel.
6. Inspect the gas tank for rust or debris, put it all back together.
7. Install the cleaned injectors and put the fuel rail and air box back on.
8. Buy fresh 91 non-ethanol fuel and 110 leaded race fuel, blend, add FI cleaner and pour into gas tank.
9. Take off the jack stands.

Ready to take her out again.😊
What made you send in the injectors? Was it running rich I assume? Such a work of art, your engine is! I remember that I picked up my Alfa when you were finishing up and about to dyno.
 

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I'm changing the transmission and differential fluid for the first time since 2015. I had some very old Redline fluid, 75/90, from when it was $9.99/bottle-! And went ahead and put that in the diff. Holy cow, not only was it low, but what came out was gray/black and thick! Lots of yellow glitter, too. So, I decide to flush it again today after driving for a week, and last weeks fluid is still dark, but much better. This time I also drove the car first to warm up tranny and diff.

The transmission fluid was dark also, but not nearly as bad. I better do this stuff more often:rolleyes:
 

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What made you send in the injectors? Was it running rich I assume? Such a work of art, your engine is! I remember that I picked up my Alfa when you were finishing up and about to dyno.
Thank you!

I was just doing a mid season check on the engine. I use a bore scope to check inside the cylinders, I noticed that the # 4 intake valve was starting to carbon up and that the #1 intake valve looked kinda dry vs the other 3.

In the pictures below it shows the 4 intake valves from inside of the cylinder, the # 1 intake valve is the dry and baked looking one. The # 4 intake valve is the picture taken looking through the spark hole. The last picture is the # 1 exhaust valve for a reference of what the other 3 cylinders exhaust valves look like compared to the intake valves.

I was expecting the #1 injector to be messed up causing that cylinder to be running hotter than the rest. Maybe with the # 4 injector being stuck wide open screw things up? I’ll check with the bore scope again after my next drive to see what things look like after the cleaned injectors were installed.

In a way I’m like a pilot‘s mechanic that’s performing a pre-flight inspection, kinda crazy isn’t it.
 

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Thank you!

I was just doing a mid season check on the engine. I use a bore scope to check inside the cylinders, I noticed that the # 4 intake valve was starting to carbon up and that the #1 intake valve looked kinda dry vs the other 3.

In the pictures below it shows the 4 intake valves from inside of the cylinder, the # 1 intake valve is the dry and baked looking one. The # 4 intake valve is the picture taken looking through the spark hole. The last picture is the # 1 exhaust valve for a reference of what the other 3 cylinders exhaust valves look like compared to the intake valves.

I was expecting the #1 injector to be messed up causing that cylinder to be running hotter than the rest. Maybe with the # 4 injector being stuck wide open screw things up? I’ll check with the bore scope again after my next drive to see what things look like after the cleaned injectors were installed.

In a way I’m like a pilot‘s mechanic that’s performing a pre-flight inspection, kinda crazy isn’t it.
Your photos are NOT those from a garage kept beauty queen; well used for sure. Glad you drive it. Also, good job getting the injectors installed right away when you got them back. I waited a month and they stuck, as I was warned they would.
 

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good job getting the injectors installed right away when you got them back. I waited a month and they stuck, as I was warned they would.
That maybe the answer to my problem, last time i had them clean was last January and the car didn’t get out for a drive till April.

In fact I have been sending them out at the end of the driving season for the last 3 years.

Thank you!
 

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That maybe the answer to my problem, last time i had them clean was last January and the car didn’t get out for a drive till April.

In fact I have been sending them out at the end of the driving season for the last 3 years.

Thank you!
You showoffs and your “removable injectors” 😡🤣.

(7/8 of the bolts holding mine in are super duper stuck, so punted on that project until the winter when I can take the time to address any problems arising from applying a little more force to get them out without losing nice driving weather.)
 

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Just a Public Service Announcement / FYI -

The Spider chassis braces are being manufactured by Don's son Marc Ereminas in Oregon. Mine just arrived, custom-made for floor pedals.

Marc Ereminas
Drive Train 4x4 Parts Co
2610 E Hancock St
Newburg OR 97132

(503)-319-2736
[email protected]

He has all of Don's stock of used and NOS Alfa parts now.
 

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1986 Spider Veloce
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Just a Public Service Announcement / FYI -

The Spider chassis braces are being manufactured by Don's son Marc Ereminas in Oregon. Mine just arrived, custom-made for floor pedals.

Marc Ereminas
Drive Train 4x4 Parts Co
2610 E Hancock St
Newburg OR 97132

(503)-319-2736
[email protected]

He has all of Don's stock of used and NOS Alfa parts now.
Thank you!
 
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