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Me too, sorta. It originally worked on my desktop but not on my laptop since I had not saved my password for BB access from it. It took several tries to change my password so everything seems to work and I can view the video now. Lots of steering wheel movement searching for front grip on the coated asphalt surface. Gotta reduce the dreaded understeer so coilovers planned for the winter to achieve more suspension adjustment.

Video is unavailable...
 

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AhHa!. My video on You Tube was logged as "Private". Just changed to "Public". It appeared on my laptop and should be available for viewing (Ain't technology wonderful?)

=conedriver;7907169]Me too, sorta. It originally worked on my desktop but not on my laptop since I had not saved my password for BB access from it. It took several tries to change my password so everything seems to work and I can view the video now. Lots of steering wheel movement searching for front grip on the coated asphalt surface. Gotta reduce the dreaded understeer so coilovers planned for the winter to achieve more suspension adjustment.
 

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...Gotta reduce the dreaded understeer .....
Aah understeer. The bane of autocross. It's almost like drifting, where overseer is a way of life. I always liked a bit of oversteer even on a fast track, and can't live without it in AX. Makes leaving the apex a bit exciting, but superb adrenaline rush when you hit it right. On the track it takes nerve to stay hard on the throttle when the car is sliding toward the exit curb. This is "THE EDGE" that everyone talks about. Nail a full power exit and you'll gain on all your competitors. (And occasionally (rarely we hope) take a ride in the gravel overrun). There is a very small difference between 10/10ths and 11/10ths. But 9/10ths is called the first looser....

This itself is the biggest difference between american auto design and european approaches. They like a bit of oversteer as their roads are often slow and twisty, where a bit of natural oversteer helps get around.

American cars live with wide sweeping highways and broad city roads. Understeer helps the manufacturers avoid lawsuits.

My race driving instructor - way back in history - said the difference between oversteer and understeer is which end goes through the fence if you've overdone the corner. ;-)

Robert
 

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Spent the 1st 30 minutes on my day off transferring the Title and Reg for my new Alfa!
Then I took an hour long cruise through the winding roads of the Ramapo Mountains.
I spent last Sunday detailing the car inside and out, so it looks great, but experienced a lot of exhaust buzz and metallic clanking
from the front left front over the slightest bumps.Other than that it drives great.
Returned home and changed the Trans and Rear diff fluid.
Adjusted the generic rear tailpipe hanger and then went after the metallic clank noise!!!!!!
Suspension and sway bar links check ok.
Adjusted front wheel bearings.
I thought it might be the hood prop rod or the door check, but no dice.
I found the clutch pedal pivot arm makes a loud clank when moved side to side.
Every where I look, I find something that MIGHT be making that noise.
OH Well
There's nothing like an Alfa!!
You gotta love it
 

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Yeah, I found a switch on Ebay and a relay. Are there supposed to be two relays? I have one in the fusebox...
Probably more of a question for another thread, but if the gauge pod bulb for the defroster was bad, would it keep the defroster from working? Mine doesn't light, but I have at least 3 other out also.
 

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Yeah, I found a switch on Ebay and a relay. Are there supposed to be two relays? I have one in the fusebox...
Probably more of a question for another thread, but if the gauge pod bulb for the defroster was bad, would it keep the defroster from working? Mine doesn't light, but I have at least 3 other out also.
just the one relay.
no, I don't think the gauge light out will effect anything....but its easy enough to remove the pod and replace those bad bulbs.

you did connect the hard top wiring connector behind the driver's door, right;)
check power there?
 

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Yeah, I found a switch on Ebay and a relay. Are there supposed to be two relays? I have one in the fusebox...
Probably more of a question for another thread, but if the gauge pod bulb for the defroster was bad, would it keep the defroster from working? Mine doesn't light, but I have at least 3 other out also.
Just one relay. Alfa moved the the location of the relay around on the fusebox. I think the location difference is whether you have a bullet fusebox or the blade style fusebox.
 

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Took the '85 Veloce for a 170-mile spin south and west through the mountains yesterday. Pretty chilly at altitude, but tolerable with a few layers and the heat turned up - better after I remembered that the dash vents only pass fresh air and closed them! Took a little detour out to the Royal Gorge where I haven't been for years; not my pic - probably taken from a quadcopter or full-size heli:

 

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Rented a cargo van, picked up a friend and drove into San Francisco to pick up my hardtop. Turns out it had the J hooks and I could have saved myself hundreds of dollars by driving the Alfa and putting it on. Prior owner had no idea how to attach hardtop and didn't live where the hardtop was stored.
 

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Just one relay. Alfa moved the the location of the relay around on the fusebox. I think the location difference is whether you have a bullet fusebox or the blade style fusebox.
I figured it out! Thanks for making me look. Yesterday, I pulled the fuse panel down to switch relays around- my fuse box is different than those in the Bentley manual, and I thought that needed to switch some relays around. I found that the major relays have special pin-outs in back and only fit in certain holes...BUT I found that two wires were almost all the way pushed out of the back of the relay plugs! One for the rear defogger, and one for the relay next to it. I now have power to the rear window, and my turn signal and hazzard now flash in the gauge pod. I actually thought it was a burned out bulb...

Today I had much less luck. I went to install a starter relay, having heard it was a '30min' job. I can't even access the starter from under the car!! I didn't feel like pulling the intake off. So then I went for the front bumper- need to remove that and replace a bent bumper shock, but the side markers wouldn't budge. No twisting to remove, frozen in good. So that job was put back a while.

So I just took it for a drive. Then raked leaves :|
 

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I did my starter relay (S4, euro) from up top....didn't need to remove anything.
just got a wrench in from under the intake (going from the front) to undo the nut for the main feed on the starter; the little spade trigger wire on solenoid just pulls off (and in my case this trigger wire was already long enough to feed up to the relay, pin #86)

it is no harder, really, that getting at the oil pressure sender.

!Disconnect battery first!
 

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I did my starter relay (S4, euro) from up top....didn't need to remove anything.
just got a wrench in from under the intake (going from the front) to undo the nut for the main feed on the starter; the little spade trigger wire on solenoid just pulls off (and in my case this trigger wire was already long enough to feed up to the relay, pin #86)

it is no harder, really, that getting at the oil pressure sender.

!Disconnect battery first!
I can't hardly even see the starter to get a tool in there! Much less the spade clip on the solinoid...
 
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