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Alfa Romeo Spider 2.0, Alfa Romeo 166 3.0
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yes but why?
That would be something you do if it was broken or you had the engine apart for a rebuild and thought the spring was weak..

In your case (your engine certainly doesn't look clapped out!) I would just do the simple safe chain tension method I mentioned: plugs out, loosen nut, roll the car in gear, tighten nut...forget about it for another 3 years!
Cost, zero
job done.

Now if your engine sounds like a bag of bolts, then OK investigate further and take it all apart.

PN is 60544910
Ok, point taken!

Now, i just came from the garage where i wanted to change the brake fluid, but when my wife pushed the brake pedal a gurgling sound was heard. I traced it to the hole under the cast iron thingie where all brake pipes go from. Just after the joint to the main brake cylinder or what it's called. When she pushes the pedal it gurgles and comes out fluid from the hole. Is it the main brake cylinder or what could be wrong? Never had this problem on a car.

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Oops!
Looks like your brake master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster.
Wash that fluid off well with lots of cold water, lots and do it now, or it will eat your paint right off in no time at all!
I think you need a new brake master cylinder and you will need to clean out the booster with a rag or the brake fluid will damage it.
Classic cars! Always something going wrong
 

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Alfa Romeo Spider 2.0, Alfa Romeo 166 3.0
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Oops!
Looks like your brake master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster.
Wash that fluid off well with lots of cold water, lots and do it now, or it will eat your paint right off in no time at all!
I think you need a new brake master cylinder and you will need to clean out the booster with a rag or the brake fluid will damage it.
Classic cars! Always something going wrong
Thanks spiderserie4. Just checking autodoc for brake master cylinder, do you have any experience with the different brands they carry or any preference?

I cleaned of the fluid ASAP so no worries.

 

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Thanks spiderserie4. Just checking autodoc for brake master cylinder, do you have any experience with the different brands they carry or any preference?

I cleaned of the fluid ASAP so no worries.

Anything else i should change while i'm at it?
 

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I personally would only use ATE parts on brakes.
orig alfa p/nwas 60714480 and the ATE part number was 03.2120-4504.3
Worth searching around on eBay too.
Not much else to change. Bleeding will be difficult if you do not bench bleed a new master cylinder
Search BB for bench bleeding the master cylinder
Good luck👍
 

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Oh and Short ATE pn is 010123
About 130 euros on eBay de(1385 sek)
 

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Here you go:
One bolt each side mounting. Top up and screen folded. From outside top up and folded. Top down folded. And top boot on. I use the top end of the zippered opening each side for the hardware to exit. Can’t zip it completely closed but it looks and works fine.
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You have done a great job with your car. it looks fantastic. The S4 do have a nice look to them. I guess they do not look so old fashion. Just a memory --- I brought my 85 S3 spider over to my dads house when I bought it in 1991 and he said where is the chrome bumpers? His daily driver was an early 70s GTV. The S4 a long way from the 70s and they have for sure held up to the test of time in design!
Here you go:
One bolt each side mounting. Top up and screen folded. From outside top up and folded. Top down folded. And top boot on. I use the top end of the zippered opening each side for the hardware to exit. Can’t zip it completely closed but it looks and works fine.
View attachment 1628278 View attachment 1628279 View attachment 1628280 View attachment 1628282 View attachment 1628284 View attachment 1628285 View attachment 1628286
 

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Dom, not sure I can agree with your chain tensioning procedure. I have always used the Alfa prescribed method. The reason I would not be comfortable with using anything to artificially tension the chain is because it can hide a weak tension spring, also if the spring is OK it could put too much pressure on the chain when the engine is running, possibly leading to premature wear. I know it is a bit scary running up the engine with the tensioner not locked off but it is quite easy and takes seconds to do.
 

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Dom, not sure I can agree with your chain tensioning procedure. I have always used the Alfa prescribed method. The reason I would not be comfortable with using anything to artificially tension the chain is because it can hide a weak tension spring, also if the spring is OK it could put too much pressure on the chain when the engine is running, possibly leading to premature wear. I know it is a bit scary running up the engine with the tensioner not locked off but it is quite easy and takes seconds to do.
Top Down, do i understand correctly when you say that you run the engine and loosen the adjustment bolt and then tighten it again? Is the engine warm or cold when adjusting?
 

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The first time I adjusted the chain was when I first got the car, the chain was slapping on the cam cover! I've had to reshim the tappets a couple of times, first time was not to my liking as I had to use the car, second time was 100%. Each time I have got the chain tension about right, then once the engine was warm and running at about 1200rpm (if I remember correctly) I slackened off the tensioner lock bolt and then retighten. Nothing to it really. First time, you do need to take the cam cover off to make sure the tensioner will move freely when unlocked.
 

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"With cover off you can tension the chain by levering the chain tensioner out a bit then locking the bolt "

What I should have explained clearer in my sentence above is: you lever out the tensioner, then release the lever, and then tighten the bolt.
you are not using a 2 foot crowbar to force that thing out against the chain with all your might.....you use feeling, you help it out.
Then you test the deflection between the 2 sprockets with your fingers after it has turned a cycle or two...again that is by feeling.

the alfa method to "crank" the motor for a few seconds, to me at least, is not something I would ever do.

timing.jpg

Those instructions were basically written for new, tight engines, perhaps after some work on the cams, or after a rebuild.
Tight engines are different to 30+ year old 100 k mile engines (like mine;))

its a little like an oil discussion though. we all have our own favorites;)
 

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1986 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce
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Finally had a day that didn't require weeding, mowing, gutter cleaning, etc.,etc.,and started working on the new fuel tank and fuel pump/sending unit assembly. My workbench was covered with extra parts, wiring diagrams, and misc, tools. Organize and clear which meant cleaning out my storage cabinet so I could clear the workbench. This lead to a 2 hour garage cleanup. Started working on the fuel pump/sending unit assembly and since the old assembly was toast I had some issues finding + and - for correct polarity on the fuel pump. After a Google search(what did we do pre internet?) on the Airtex pump found a picture showing where the markings for +&-, old eyes and a magnifying glass and still couldn't find them until I seen the enlarged picture. Assembled and inserted into tank, too high, removed and shortened connecting rubber tube 1/2 inch. Seems to fit ok but am going to inspect by shining flashlight in filler hole and see if float is hitting. By the way, the filter that connects to the bottom of the pump appears to be shorter by about 2 inches(?) in length than what is pictured on the box, can't see this having an effect on performance but it made the install into the tank tight but manageable. The threads I have read before indicated a problem with this. Will go out later this afternoon and complete the install.
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Got caught in the rain, without wipers. Our spider restoration has been a long road (flood car).The wipers on on the list
 

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Repainted my rusty air box, changed all brake pads, stripped and repainted 4 wheels, wire brushed lug nuts. Replaced rotor, cap, & plug wires. Touched up a few stone chips. Actually took the last 4 days . . .

Feels good, like after you go to the dentist, LOL.

David OD
Laguna CA
 

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Installed new spark plugs and ignition wires. Then I ordered Bilsteins at 4wheelonline. Tomorrow, I will do the brakes.
 

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Went to get gas at Costco. After fill-up, would not start -- no click, no nothing -- but the generator light was on, and I knew the battery was good. Eventually found that the power wire to the starter relay had been severed at the starter terminal. (No idea how this happened). Called my wife and used FaceTime so she could collect the tools I needed. She brought them, and 10 minutes later, I was back in business on the way home.

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