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had my 2nd set of Teledials black powdercoated/glossed and new Quatrac5 tires fitted for winter.

Other little things like cam chain adjusted and those two small bolts under the front of the head were seeping oil for ages now, so removed them, cleaned them and refitted with some sealant.....so far not a drop of oil seepage there.
 

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Was on a nice little drive today when suddenly I saw the voltage gauge had dropped from it's usual 12-13 range down to around 7-8 volts. Then the "Battery" warning light came on. Looks like I have a "remove alternator and test" project in my near future, and just when the weather had started to get nice.

I'd first check voltage across battery when running (gauge/warning light could be a gremlin in the monopod)
then wires in main block on fender for clean contact (especially green for the gauge)
maybe even pull out the regulator/brushes unit from the back of alt, and inspect those.

....before removing the alt itself.
 

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Max,

Yes. It has the ZF 3 Speed which was also quite common in BMWs (?and Volvos) of the early 90s. I think it is time to have it overhauled.

Peter
Peter,
as you are in the UK, it might be an idea to ask Anglospider (Nick) over on the AlfaOwner forum where he had his S4 autobox overhauled.

However, have you checked the 2 relays for the autobox (post #4 below)?....see some info here (including a decent pdf guide on the peugeot ZF auto - same box as spider - I posted a few years back)
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spi...308-1991-automatic-trans-starting-issues.html

Dom
 

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The one disappointment is that she still seems to have a fuel-delivery issue when the level gets much below half a tank. The new pump started moaning about 40 miles into the shake-down cruise, and I felt a slight hesitation under acceleration through a hard left-hander shortly thereafter. It only took 7.5 gallons to fill up, and I can still hear some pump noise now where I hadn't noticed anything at first.
is there excessive vacuum in the tank when you fill up? (ie. does air woosh in when you remove the gas cap)
if so, might be the blocked/bad check valves by the fuel vapour canister in the trunk.
Next time it gets below 1/2 tank, loosen or remove the gas cap and see if thngs improve.
 

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Yeah, I found a switch on Ebay and a relay. Are there supposed to be two relays? I have one in the fusebox...
Probably more of a question for another thread, but if the gauge pod bulb for the defroster was bad, would it keep the defroster from working? Mine doesn't light, but I have at least 3 other out also.
just the one relay.
no, I don't think the gauge light out will effect anything....but its easy enough to remove the pod and replace those bad bulbs.

you did connect the hard top wiring connector behind the driver's door, right;)
check power there?
 

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I did my starter relay (S4, euro) from up top....didn't need to remove anything.
just got a wrench in from under the intake (going from the front) to undo the nut for the main feed on the starter; the little spade trigger wire on solenoid just pulls off (and in my case this trigger wire was already long enough to feed up to the relay, pin #86)

it is no harder, really, that getting at the oil pressure sender.

!Disconnect battery first!
 

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...Only negative about the visit; once again, my VVT doesn't freaking work. I got it working a couple of years ago, but since the rebuild it's once again sleeping...
its possible the solenoid is just physically stuck and that is very easy to check/rectify:
remove the electric connector, unscrew the end bit and pull out the little shaft.....that can gum up.

Mike explains here:
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-105-115-series-1966-1994/415594-vvt-solenoid-really-dead.html

might of course be the electric harness has failed (there is a workaround) or the internal oil passages have blocked.
 

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1984 spider-One of the license plate lights was hanging out of the fame. It cracked right where the plastic female fastener snapped into. I glued cracked together on the frame so the female fastener would stay in place. Cleaned the electrical contacts and put back together. Went to turn on the lights and I bent down to see if they were working. So sad non of the license plate lights worked. As I lean on the trunk lid to help my self up, the pressure of my weight turn on one of the lights. Any ideals what is the issue?
That frame would be a good candidate for 3D printing:)

as spiderJohn says clean the 3 contacts both on the deck and on the lid
this thing:
 

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No I have to push down on the trunk lid.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
might be worth checking the two rubber bump stops on back corners of lid are not too far screwed out
(iow. does the trunk lid sit too proud of the body, or is it nice and flush)

70's spiders had ones that just pop in, but I think your 84 will have the later screw type bump stops, like these.
 

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I'm getting rid of the huge flag mirrors on my S4 and mounting Vitaloni Sebrings on the stock mirror bases. Did the basic fitting mods today and tomorrow I'll spray them body color.

I'll do a little tutorial with photos soon.
that is a mod that nobody has done before.

I wonder how the chrome Vitalonis would look there, I had chrome versions on my old sprint....the S4 metal bases can be polished up to a mirror shine to resemble chrome too.
 

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The rotor screws are phillips and stuck.
a spray of release agent, then get a big phillips screwdriver that fits those screw heads perfect, then whack it with a big hammer a few times to shock the threads.
Then get the impact driver and they should come out (secret of the impact driver is using a big hammer and one or two solid big whacks...tapping is useless and doesn't twist the impact driver)
 

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....my one owner '91 Spider is getting new injector seals, new 7.5mm hoses.....
is it not worthwhile sending injectors off for professional clean and flow test, now the rail is off?
also make sure the hard plastic phenolic cups are still in the cylinder head...they can pull out when removing the injector and fall on the floor.

plenum off you say? that is surely the time to replace the engine mount under there if it needs it;)
 

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Installed the Rear Main Seal in the 67's 1600 twice.

First time without the Oil Slinger
Second time with the Oil Slinger installed
and the good one, the corteco, as well:)

(if there were signs of leakage from that horseshoe cover, you should check it for straightness.....the bolts can make little indentations around the boltholes in the plate and then it can leak....but if it was fine beforehand,leave it be!)
 
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