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Wow. Those look like headlight top covers. If you can score a set of those for the Bosch projector headlamps (the ones with the strip below) I'd love to have them. Mine are just beginning to crumble. Annoyingly, ePer does not seem to provide part numbers for the Bosch projectors.
 

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Wow. Those look like headlight top covers. If you can score a set of those for the Bosch projector headlamps (the ones with the strip below) I'd love to have them. Mine are just beginning to crumble. Annoyingly, ePer does not seem to provide part numbers for the Bosch projectors.
aren't they the same? Meethinks they are... Ciao, Chris
 

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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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The rubber headlight covers for the Bosch are different than those for the USA delivery B, L, S, LS, and Q.

I think you found a used pair of the Bosch pieces for me a few years ago for the Bosch headlights I put on my 94LS. Thanks again. Luckily, the used Bosch headlights I bought came with the lower fillers.
 

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To refresh any minds here are pictures of Bosch covers...

Wood Gadget Rectangle Tints and shades Laptop part


Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Natural material Hardwood


Product Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Material property Bumper


btw, I'm in need of the lower rubber strip for an Elma driver's side H4 (goes between headlight and bumper), if anyone has an extra.

Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Machine Wire


Chris, after those splash guards I think the only think the only options you may be missing are the "Dachwindabweiser" and "Seitenwindabweiser"...

Automotive parking light Tire Car Wheel Automotive lighting
 

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Discussion Starter · #15,546 ·

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appreciate the lessons, I thought the covers were generic. My lights are Elma. Been looking at the sites and finding a lot of NOS projector lamps as well as those trim strips underneath them at reasonable prices to boot. Send rain. Ciao, Chris
 

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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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Spent the morning chasing a gas smell in the 91S that the car has had for a while. Thought it might be the little screws holding the fuel pump in, but they are dry. All the hoses and elbows are intact. Pulled the rear seat out so that I could remove and access that vapor recovery canister and the associated plumbing.

Discovered that the small clear plastic line coming from the yellow and black check valve was kinked over, basically closed off, and the other end which hangs down inside the lower part of the RR fender was clogged with road dirt. Cut those bad ends off, but then realized I did a dumb thing.

I forgot to note which way the check valve is mounted, Jeez. Don't get old and forgetful.

Looked at the eper, but it is not really clear, and the workshop manual is worse. My impression is that it is a pressure relief check valve, exiting air from the canister to the clear plastic line which runs out into the lower part of the RR fender, but the eper seems to show it the other way? I drove the car a while with it that way, and when I threw some more gas in the car, the released internal pressure seemed very excessive. So, I surmise maybe it goes the other way. Will reverse it and see what happens.

So, lol, which way does it really go? Yellow end to the outside clear plastic vent line, or toward the canister?
 

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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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Hmmm. That's what I thought at first and the way I initially installed it. I thought that if it was a vacuum relief valve, it seemed to be a strange place for it do draw air from, the lower inside part of the RR fender, the line fed down through the trunk vent grid down into the bottom of the RR fender behind the plastic body fairing.

You are most likely correct, but I was surprised at the seemingly excessive pressure build up released when I took the gas cap off. Always been some, but not like this. Of course, it has been unusually 90+F out so maybe that makes the difference.

Did reverse it and drive the car around. Didn't smell any fumes (there was no pressure in the tank when I removed the cap), so that was ok, but I suspect I will change it back to how I originally installed it so that it relieves the system vacuum as you say.

Lol, or, since I didn't smell any fumes, maybe I'll leave it alone as a pressure relief valve. Engine runs just fine.
 

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Sounds entirely different here - no additional canister foobazz to my knowledge - Mr Del, in the upper area of my pump assy flange is a check valve... a ball plunger sort of thing that I don't recall how it functions, it's in my pump thread of years back. I think it's a pressure relief. Good luck with finding the source. Same deal here but only when I overfill it. Think I'd have learned by now no? When it cools, the car is going on a rack and the tank flez pipe, fill tube and bypass tube that runs up the fill tube will be swapped out. As I mentioned before, I think the tube has a crack or the flex tube has flexed to the point of cracking... IDK but having collected the parts, the swap should be fairly straightforward. Ciao, Chris
 

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This yellowish thing…
 

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No, it's item three in the eper page for the 164 emissions plumbing:


Looks like the small end goes to the canister, but not sure, esp since they don't show the long thin clear plastic hose attached to it which runs down and into the inside of the RR fender, outside the boot interior. the short piece of hose is the only clue that the small end attaches to the canister.
 

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No, it's item three in the eper page for the 164 emissions plumbing:


Looks like the small end goes to the canister, but not sure, esp since they don't show the long thin clear plastic hose attached to it which runs down and into the inside of the RR fender, outside the boot interior. the short piece of hose is the only clue that the small end attaches to the canister.
No sir, I meant the yellow thing in my pic is the pressure relief system as best I can figger on a euro 164. It slides up and down to vent/equalize pressure as best I know. I have seen item #1 for sale new on eBay over here. Always surprising how many US parts are available. Ciao, Chris
 
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The clutch MC on my Alfetta GT had a small leak for a year or two. I know it was leaking, since the fluid level in the reservoir would go down very slowly, and I could see fluid on the rubber boot for the actuator linkage in the footwell. Since I have been using silicone brake fluid in this car for over 40 years, I wasn't concerned about the small leak. Recently the leak got bigger, so it was time to rebuild or replace the MC.
While I had the lower steering column shroud off, I decided it was a good time to finally add a relay to the ignition switch. The ignition switch is old and the car's wiring will shortly be 50 years old. I had noticed that my switched 12V is lower than my unswitched 12V, and when I had a lot of electrical things running, the switched 12V was getting pulled down. I have had a relay on my starter solenoid for about 15 years. My low beams run off of a relay, but my parking lights and high beams run directly off of the steering column light switch.

I had a rebuild kit for my clutch MC. I decided to pull out all of my clutch MC parts. I had 2 Ate Alfetta MCs, 1 Ate GTV6 MC, and 1 Bosch 164 MC. All of these needed rebuilding. I discovered that all of these MCs had the same bore except for the MC that I had just pulled off of my Alfetta GT. It had the smaller bore (about 1 mm). I has aware that the early Alfettas had a smaller bore BRAKE MC than the late Alfettas and GTV6s, but I had thought that all of the Ate CLUTCH MCs were the same. Apparently not. My GTV6 has a Bendix clutch MC on it now, that I rebuilt 5 or so years ago, so I don't remember what sort of bore it has.
I had the proper rebuild kit for my smaller bore clutch MC, so I rebuilt it and put it back on the car.
Several people have posted horror stories about trying to bleed the clutch hydraulics on the 116/119 chassis. Here is my experience this weekend. I put the rebuilt clutch MC on the car dry. I attached the hard line, but left the nut pretty loose. I put some paper towels around the end of the MC. I put some fluid (silicone) in the reservoir, and worked the clutch pedal 6 or 7 times. I then tightened up the line nut, and started working the clutch pedal. For about the first 10 or 15 pumps, I had no resistance. Then I started getting some resistance at the end of the pedal travel. I did another 10 or 15 pedal pumps, and things got better. After another 10 or 15 pedal pumps, I had resistance all of the way down, and the clutch pedal felt like it normally does. I never cracked the nut again or bled at the slave cylinder. With the engine running, the car goes into reverse without any scratching.
Having bled the clutch (mostly at the slave cyl) on my Alfetta and my GTV6 several times in the last decade now, it seems like it always takes almost 50 pedal pumps (after bleeding) to get the pedal hard all of the way down. This seems goofy. On all of my cars with the clutch in the front, it only takes maybe 10 pedal pumps to get the pedal to stabilize.

On my new ignition switch relay, the RED and BROWN wires that formerly ran to the ignition switch connector, now go to the relay contacts. I ran a new wire from unswitched 12V to the relay, a new wire from the relay to where the red wire formerly went on the ign sw connector, and a new wire from where the brown wire formerly was located in the switch connector to ground. Since the START terminal in the ign sw is now ground instead of +12V, I disconnected the ballast resistor bypass wire (GREEN wire in the ign sw connector). This was no problem for my car, as I had removed the coil ballast resistor about 30 years ago, so the green wire didn't actually go anywhere. Since the BLACK wire in the single terminal ign sw connector is now grounded in the START position, I had to swap activate (was 12V from BLACK wire) and ground on my starter solenoid relay.
For people that have a coil ballast resistor that they want to work, I guess they would have to install another relay to supply +12V to the GREEN wire.

Electrical wiring Cable Wire Electrical supply Gas

The above picture was taken before I removed the GREEN wire from the connector.
 

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This weekend I managed to replace left axle assembly with spare that had good rubber boots and replaced worn outer tie rod end on the 90 164QV. That stopped the grease slinging inside the wheel and fender liner. Also reduced major torque steer to acceptable level.

I still have to replace the QV's right side inner/outer tie rod ends as inner one has some play in socket and locking jam nut frozen so can't adjust final toe in to 0.

I still having to pace myself and not to overstress my new right knee inner ball joint. Also have de Quervain's Tendonitis in right wrist so wearing a thumb and wrist Velcro splint.

Drove the 168B rescue/daily driver to cars and coffee this morning. There was a white Alfa 4C there but close to a 100 other makes of cars and trucks today.
 

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It's the time of year when the mornings are cool and pleasant. Took the DD on a search mission to find a self serve carwash where you can wash them without the usual drive thru stuff. The two I thought might be indeed were. Cleaned and tidied the DD then Rossa. Took her for a longish drive to dry the hidden areas. Very pleasing morning. Not sure of its availability in the US but there is a product I found by Ma Fra Called Maniac Line wheel and tire cleaner. Best stuff I ever have used. Diluted 1/3 to 2/3 with water it is the bomb. If you can source it, I highly recommend it. Just don't let it dry and rinse it thoroughly. I'll post a few pics of what it did for the original wheels on Rossa that had caked on brake dust from eons ago. The pics show the inside of an Alfa wheel after 3 or four minutes of soaking and a wheel brush scrubbing. Rinsed with a garden hose. When I was playing with this stuff on the DD I had the luxury of a pressure spray at the wash place. FWIW, we're under water restrictions so doing this stuff in the driveway can result in a big fine. Hope all had a decent day. We finished up with big grilled meat and friends. Ciao, Cris
 

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Didn't see it on a Google search here. The front wheels on my 91S really need something because of brake dust. The rears are not bad. Thought about using bleach but don't know if it would hurt the paint on the wheel.
 
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