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Discussion Starter #14,721
Just up for Midnight pit stop here on the Right Coast and noticed it a bit warm in the beach house at 76 so lowered to 75. ML she complains it is too cold at 74 during the day but humidity lower here in VB, whereas in FL she has to have thermostat set at 71 or it is too hot. Part of the reason for difference in her comfort levels is 1988 2x6 stick wall construction here with good insulated walls and attic for this temperate zone and 2x4 no wall insulation; very little in attic. in our 1954 FL house.

Now contrast that with my 1991 black 164 w/converted R12 system with our white 17 Jeep GC with y1234 "freon" factory set up and you will understand why the black 164 is driven early in the day in summer.
 

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Same for my converted 91S, just barely ok on the hottest days. It is amazing just how much better the A/C is in the LS. Can easily handle the heat in the SW in summer. The Chevy SS is the same, just great with typical US setup, or should I say the typical system from OZ (the car being a Holden rebadged as a Chevy).

Supposed to reach 90F tomorrow, rather rare. Right now at 11pm we have temperature at 72F, dropping fast, and humidity at 37%. All we need is a couple of fans to move the air into the house, depending on the inside/outside temperature differences. Closing up the house when the outside temp exceeds the inside, then the reverse when the outside drops below the inside. Works well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14,723 (Edited)
Prepped BB1 this morning for 0930 tomorrow induction into minor cosmetic body work and paint touch up caper. Remove grill and emblem from hood and lettering, script, lock and emblem from trunk lid.
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1640663
 

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With the sun shining brightly, with blue skies (no humidity/smog haze for us as compared to the east, esp what we experienced in DC), with expected temperatures to reach maybe 93F today, have been keeping the car covers on the two Alfas in the carport, which does get a little direct sun during part of the day, Seattle being far north compared to the rest of the country. Have to keep the sun off the fragile plastics and fabric in the cars. Have always done that, and so far, no damage to any of it, all original yet (the 91S instrument cowl is still looking great, unwarped, as I always keep a white towel covering it when parked, even at the grocery store, and use leather care on it once in a while).
 

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Took the Spider to work today, as weather was ok (not really much summer in Scandinavia this year...). Always nice to get the V6 sound, especially with the roof down :cool:

It passed 59k km on the way home.
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Nice car. Had fun driving one in NZ a few years ago, same color.
 

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Today I continued trying to diagnose my always-opening trunk lid solenoid. Many threads on the topic but haven't seen a solid solution yet. I'm working through the electrical shop manual procedures, but need visual verification of which connectors are G164, G170 and G198. Hopefully I'll solve this after all these many years.
 

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Discussion Starter #14,728
When my 164S kept auto opening trunk, I found it was bad circuit/micro switch in the a/c and trunk panel in the dash. Lucky I had another control panel spare. But when it happened on my 93L and I did not have another good panel I found the ground wire in the wiring harness using wiring diagram shop manual. I had third switch button in 93 bezel holding dimmer switch. I spliced in wire in harness and hooked to that third switch. Nice location as I could reach in from driver side and pop open the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #14,729
Also check the microswitch and wire inside trunk lid at key lock lever for shorting/tripping. Try turning key counterclockwise to valet position and see if trunk stays shut as now lever can't touch switch. Also check inside trunk lid to see if latch solenoid is hot to touch.

Also FYI the trunk opening relay is located behind right side carpet in trunk next to relay for gas filler door solenoid.
 

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I verified that the trunk stays closed when truck lock switch (B55) is in valet mode. Any movement outside of valet mode, even a few degrees of rotation, will pop the trunk. Relay 152 is functional based on a bench test. Relay pin 85 has 0.019V which I assume is close enough to 0V to be acceptable. Relay pin 86 has 12V with the ignition key in the OFF position; the manual says should be 12V when key is in "PARK" but I don't know if there's a difference between OFF (fully CCW) and PARK (one click CW). I'm following the troubleshooting steps in ppg 809-811 in the electrical shop manual and stuck on test A5 - can someone help me identify G164, G170 and G198. I know where they are, but not sure which of the many relays is which. Anyone have a photo? It's unclear from looking at the manual.
 

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The next 10 days are forecast to be between 98 and 100 plus. Makes work in the shops a bit too toasty in the afternoon.
 

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A/C units are not all that expensive. I'd sure have one if needed. My bro in law in CT for some reason refuses to get one, preferring to suffer in 90+F very sweaty weather. He could easily afford a simple window unit. Therefore, we never visit in the laate spring, summer, or early fall. No way, no how. Late falls of course are very nice, with decent weather and beautiful foliage. Winters suck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14,733
I verified that the trunk stays closed when truck lock switch (B55) is in valet mode. Any movement outside of valet mode, even a few degrees of rotation, will pop the trunk. Relay 152 is functional based on a bench test. Relay pin 85 has 0.019V which I assume is close enough to 0V to be acceptable. Relay pin 86 has 12V with the ignition key in the OFF position; the manual says should be 12V when key is in "PARK" but I don't know if there's a difference between OFF (fully CCW) and PARK (one click CW). I'm following the troubleshooting steps in ppg 809-811 in the electrical shop manual and stuck on test A5 - can someone help me identify G164, G170 and G198. I know where they are, but not sure which of the many relays is which. Anyone have a photo? It's unclear from looking at the manual.
Right now I can't as I just put computer that plays my 164 DVD in the shop for repair but I can tell you you have a grounding somewhere in the wiring from microswitch in trunk at key lock back to trunk button on dash a/c panel. OR trunk lock micro bad or micro in ac panel bad. Something is abnormally grounding the wire going to pin 85 of trunk lid solenoid relay. Do the easy check first at the microswitch at key lock.
 

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Right now I can't as I just put computer that plays my 164 DVD in the shop for repair but I can tell you you have a grounding somewhere in the wiring from microswitch in trunk at key lock back to trunk button on dash a/c panel. OR trunk lock micro bad or micro in ac panel bad. Something is abnormally grounding the wire going to pin 85 of trunk lid solenoid relay. Do the easy check first at the microswitch at key lock.
I pulled the A/C panel (Q21A) and tested with a backup I got from somewhere I don't remember where. Hey guess what? Trunk doesn't constantly open with the new panel. Glad I had that spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #14,735
I pulled the A/C panel (Q21A) and tested with a backup I got from somewhere I don't remember where. Hey guess what? Trunk doesn't constantly open with the new panel. Glad I had that spare.
Good deal now do all the other function on that panel work? I hope so.
 

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Hopped into the car last afternoon for a drive after days pf sitting and got the "click" no-crank condition. Figured the battery went flat again and put the stater on it. This morning, started just fine. While driving along an 80 km zone, was happy at the peppiness and she seemed to pull even with the foot off the gas. Turned out a wiring loom was rubbing against the throttle....causing the ca to run at 3000 rpm even at idle...as I had not put the firewall back on, wanting to be sure the starter and manifold nuts were right. After a few hours, started up again and drove a short distance to town to get a quote for a lint of color match paint for touch ups. Shut off ca, started again to move it forward 20 feet...again no issue. After 10 minutes, got in to start and got nothing. Lights work, dash, everything but NO crank. After fiddling with everything I could think of, including a jump start, had to have it towed to my driveway. I am hoping it is the ignition switch as I did have trouble with the former switch. I am hoping it isn't the recently rebuilt starter or new solenoid. So, later tomorrow, I will start checking all connections, wires, etc. To be clear: There was an occasional click but NO crank. Frustrating.
1641252
 

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Discussion Starter #14,737
Beeton I read your post over on my maintenance sticky and this one so to test starter wiring and ignition switch functionality from ignition switch connector under dash with alarm disarmed on your 94LS disconnect that 4-wire connector and insert jumper with bayonet flat blade terminal into red 12v hot wire in female connecter and just touch other end of that jumper wire into purple wire female terminal. If starter OK and I10 starter relay, etc... OK starter will turn over. Try that and report your results.
 

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Culprit seemed to be a dirty pin 1 at the front bank multi connector. At least that is the only cleanup that did the trick. I had checked the firewall connector while waiting for the tow but just did not check the front one. Could have saved myself 2 hours.
Anyway, had tried the relay, switch tests (relay clicked, bypass-no starter) and then moved to the engine bay.
Cleaned the multi connector and then the car started right away and has started 10 more times since wit no "click".
I had also removed the center console in case there was a safety switch in there to look at (auto tranny) but I don't think so. Cleaned stuff anyways.
Will check manifold nuts for leaks and then re install firewall this week.
Fingers are crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14,739
Does 24v have A/T safety switch in center console? I don't think so as I believe the P or N switch is on the tranny gear lever switch on tranny. Now the safety solenoid to unlock the shift lever from park when brake light switch is pushed by brake pedal is there with a hole in side console carpet to do a finger push if brake light switch shunt on brake pedal switch fails. Years ago I had to walk now deceased friend Myron through that exercise when he was out to dinner with his girl friend and could not get car out of park to get her home before her daughter came looking for them senior citizens God! how I miss his come rescue me calls!

You know what is funny he has been gone for years and now I am approaching what his age was then?
 

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Yea. The brake pedal causes the solenoid to release the lever in the shift mechanism. The solenoid clicks loudly enough. I wasn't sure there was not a safety in there that prevented the car from starting in anything other than P or N. I was reaching as I had cleaned up under the console a few weeks prior to the no start due to a sticky "P" setting (the metal-edge of the lever had worn a bit and was binding with the frame.)
 
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