Went for a drive this morning and all I got was the families "tick" telling me the battery was low.....again. Put the car on the charger for a few hours then went for a 10 minute drive. After 30 minutes, "tick", "tick" and eventually she started.
Got it home after a 10 minute drive and then again "tick". Put the charger back on for the better part of the day and......can't find the darn keys, neither of my 2 sets.
I'm hoping the "tick" was just a partially discharged battery and not the starter itself....that was a chore. Also rebuilt the alternator so should be charging fine (meter shows 13-14 volts when running). Frustrating.
Drove BB1 out and about this afternoon to get us some super "grinder" subs for early supper. Such a pleasure to be driving a 164 again. I went way across town to Toni's Pizza in our old neighborhood. Toni's Pizza
I have three sets of regular keys, one valet key, two remotes and two alarm keys for it, too. Alarm siren noise wire cut and antitheft box disarmed so just use the key to lock/unlock doors.
I’m getting back to my timing belt on the S after a few days of family time. The water pump I got from OKP was a pain the the backside to get in because of the bulbous thing below the pulley. I ended up having to dismantle more engine just to do that one thing. Finally succeeded but took way longer that I was anticipating. I did take a few moments and wire wheeled the heck out of the bolts though, some were ugly..... I haven’t even got started on checking valve clearances yet..... is there a trick to the throttle cable to get the intake plenum out of the way? I apologize if it’s more obvious once you start getting into it.
I just remove four allen head bolts and small hose and set the throttle body and cable aside. Be careful of the throttle body gasket though. I did it that way because it is a real pain to loosen those big nuts on throttle cable enough to remove cable from TB bracket and you can lose that little spring clip on end of cable, too.
More tackling of the jobs on the S today. Got the bits to make the cam hub puller as per Alfisto Steve’s instruction, I could only find hollow plugs here so I just packed it with washers. Couldn’t get either hub out for a lookie loo, thermostat housing for the front hub and even with the trans dropped out of the mount I was a few hairs short of getting the rear one out. I just wanted to change orings anyway, I was just curious.
On to tackling shimming and retorquing the rear head, had to adjust all three exhaust gaps, intakes were spot on.
Everything went mostly ok, the car thought it would fight back here and there but progress was made.
I’m glad I’m not paying for this, compared to all else I’ve worked on, this 164 sure has been time consuming to get things done. Sigh.
Front head and timing belt reassembly hopefully tomorrow. I have to clean covers etc still, see how it goes.
I sure appreciate Alfisto Steve’s technical tidbits spread throughout this site.
More work today on the S, pushing forward with the timing belt etc jobs. Checked valve clearances and did a retorque on the front head, that went fairly smoothly, had to adjust all exhaust valves, until putting the valve cover back on and the screw where the dipstick is just spun. Time to break out the Heli coil kit and drill into the head. Once all back together I moved onto reinstalling the timing belt. Getting a the covers back on took a bit of extra time, just dealing with old plastic bits. I thought I would leave the water pump pulley bolts to tighten until after the belt was tensioned but then I forgot, when I was doing the engine run, bleeding, checking for leaks etc, I noticed that my water pump pulley had a bit of a wobble..... sigh
I did try and do some beautification by changing my damaged left driving light but the new one I got has a totally different wiring connector. Anyone know what connector that is so I can buy one? Or have a pigtail from an old car?
I only had time for a short drive before dinner, runs well, about the same as before, seems to idle more smoothly. Sure is a nice car in general, to drive, be in. While the coolant was drained I put in a new facet temp gauge sender from eBay, the gauge seems to indicate hotter now, a solid 90*c but my overheat light doesn’t come on randomly anymore.
Wife came home from driving her Milano to the store and back, and came in, saying there is some smoke coming out from under the right side of the car (the way the wind was blowing). Oops. Took a look around, checking the gauges, noting that they all read fine, normal oil pressure and coolant temperature. Hmmm, started to peer around under the car, saw a couple of drips smoking on the exhaust, looked at the engine with the hood up, and noticed that there was oil dripping out from under around the oil pressure sender, running down onto the exhaust and causing a little smoke. Oil level was down to the min mark. Unusual, as the Milano does not use oil at all between changes.
Decided that something may be awry with the OEM pressure sender, either loose or leaking from a crack. There is nothing else around there which would leak oil. The pressure light sender area is dry, and there is no oil from the heads, esp the rhs, closer to the sender. Will clean the area up and then start the engine again to see what happens. Lol, at least it won't get oil on the clutch.
Nuts, I just hate trying to get at that d*mn pressure sender, tucked down in the back with little access. I do have a set of crow's foot socket fittings, but may be too thick to get under the sender housing to reach the not that tall nut. May have to grind one of them thinner. Luckily I do have a couple of spare senders, maybe one new, and a couple of ones I did my patented "drill the hole" repair on that I know work.