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Discussion Starter #14,221 (Edited)
I am back from dental, lunch and test drive of BB1

IT RUNS! More info to follow have a dental appt.
OK, even though every thing check good as per wiring diagram and multimeter test after I put BB1 back together again last week it would not start. I ended up getting a new AZ timing light and NOID wafer to verify what I already knew - no spark and no injector pulse. I was offered a good ECU from Lee in NJ which came yesterday AND it did not cure problem.


Today I jacked car, pulled R/F wheel and inner fender liner and lower TB cover to access RPM/Timing sensor at front crank pulley. BINGO problem revealed. There was no air gap between sensor and teeth on crank pulley. WHY? Because dirt/grease/oil glob on flat tip of sensor prevented signal getting back to to ground the ECU to pulse injectors and allow coil to fire plugs.

Must have been a failure waiting to happen and it just happened to happen after I replaced a/c hose and tidied up wiring on the back end of engine. GO Figure!.

I am one happy Alfisti for two plus reasons:

1. It now runs again and soon will get A/C recharged AND 2.

2. I took totaled Insurance Settlement check and kept the title for $100.

3. Extra Edition - I got new a/c receiver dryer filter assembly from ebayer in PA so I can ready system for evacuation and recharge next week at base hobby shop.

4. Now that we have a new used 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee (JGC) for ML to replace the 04 JGC we drove up here from FL and BB1 back among the living LIFE IN VBeach, VA is good again.

End of June, all of July and part of August has not been drama free by any means! I am tired-er now but stronger for what didn't kill me or BB1.

Here are some post rehab pictures of G56 circuit board and false firewall area, crank sensor area and pre-test drive pix:
 

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Replaced the 4 month old RR brake caliper after is started leaking again. Got the new rebuilt one from Rock Auto . . last one they had.

Removed the piston from old caliper and found some rust inside (only four months old). The brake fluid is new and clear, so I don't think there's water contamination in it. I think it probably came pre-rusted.

Also, I had a rebuild kit from Centerline. The ring seal in the bad caliper was slightly larger than the one in the Centerline kit. Hmmm.

And on top of that, the dust boot from Centerline was too big in circumference to fit in the 38mm bore, so I re-used the old one which fit perfectly. I'm going to hang onto the "old" 4 month caliper instead of paying shipping and sending it in for a $25 refund of the core charge.

The calipers, of course, were 38mm Girlings.

"NUGEON" was the rebuilder for both the old bad one and the new one I got from Rock Auto. So far the left side (NAPA sourced) has not caused any problems.
 

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Nothing new, but I had to remove my bright red Alfa baseball cap from the back window shelf of the 91S today. Seems there were unwanted/unreasonable comments...

Otherwise, the cars run well, except I may have to finally replace the brake master cylinder in the 91S, alas, although it acts up only in very hot Seattle weather (well, hot for Seattle, ~90F, stop and go). The realigned rhs handbrake cable works fine now. Still have to do that to the cable on the LS as well to prevent future similar problems.
 

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Stuck the ‘95LS in the workshop this evening. I’ll get after it this week.


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Trying to sort out the difference between the 1974 and 1990 wiring...got rear and stopping lights working ok...having issues with the gauges and don't want to pull them all out and it is a nightmare... found a short on the ignition, then the seat belt buzzer is driving me crazy, and can't understand why they didn't just add more relays back then to keep the whole circuit from overloading? Some senders don't work. I finally got oil pressure to work. Water temp is not working. Wondering if I can still put manual wire speedo and tach on the 1990?
 

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Discussion Starter #14,226
Got some early Sunday morning time in on BB1 yesterday. Pretty much got it all back together except for installing new A/C receiver dryer. Hope to find time this week to do that and to take BB1 to base hobby shop to get a/c serviced.

Had to get some new 1157 amber bulbs for parking/turn signal lights. Right after the fire I had taken out the Euro Bosch Projector headlights and reinstalled the USA spec Carello 9004 headlights.

If I had totaled car and let it go to insurance auction I didn't want to lose those H1 euro headlights.

Drove the car around the neighborhood some more.
 

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Verrry good.
 

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Discussion Starter #14,228 (Edited)
Gotter dun today. BB1 now has operational A/C again. Not as cold as our Jeep Grands but appears to be as good as it was before the fire.

Installed new old stock ebay receiver dryer and had hobby shop evacuate system, their service machine computed and added 41 oz of R134a and 2 oz of ester oil. Sticker on chassis I had remade with R134s stated 42 oz. which maybe more than the 80% conversion rule but since still have the R12 hoses should be OK.

Looks like we are now going to leave BB1 in VB at our beach house and may leave our 04 Jeep Grand, too.

We are rethinking our semi-snow bird status as it gets real hot in summer in FL. It has been hot here in VA, too but we are enjoying the lower temp/humidity here at the oceanfront.

In the sun summer can be brutal most anywhere nowadays and that is why we have car and house A/C systems.

It is only 85 with 50% humidity at the beach today and feels like 87 but even though 1 degree cooler in FL it feels like 94 there with 78% humidity.
 

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"We are rethinking our semi-snow bird status as it gets real hot in summer in FL"

Gosh, who woulda thunk that, lol.

"In the sun summer can be brutal most anywhere nowadays"

Yeah, just wait, what with CC coming along. Haven't had to use the car a/c yet, and of course the house has none, since the humidity, yada yada yada...

Glad you were able to spend the time to fix up BB1, still a nice car. Didn't deserve to die yet.
 

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Wow, can’t believe it’s been six years since I bought my 164 and started posting in this section. Speaking of A/C it’s been probably four years now since restoring it and it still works! Outer front door handle finally gave up the ghost though so I need to dig up the spare I’ve had in waiting. Also the sunroof doesn’t open anymore, moves about a quarter inch then stops. Vent action still works.
 

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Discussion Starter #14,231 (Edited)
If I keep BB2 the 164S in FL it has the Ford motor home "Sanden" SD7H15 chincom compressor and 1991 condenser . I may have to do cross-flow upgraded a/c condenser. Roadtrip and others have done that upgrade. BB1 also still has originale 1991 condenser but it does have 24v 94-95 OEM factory Sanden SD7H15 compressor.

My bud Ralph in Orange Park FL has modified his 164 a/c by replacing the PDI valve set up with something similiar to 164 euro plumbing and swears he has much colder a/c. I need to get an understanding of what he did to mod the system. It has an external pressure switch in a tube running along side of engine bay. He may have used a different expansion valve with only one capillary tube.
 

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That would be interesting to hear about.


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"I may have to do cross-flow upgraded a/c condenser. Roadtrip and others have done that upgrade"

I made that change when I converted the 91S a/c over, but the a/c is just not all that great (absolutely nothing like the as yet untouched 94LS a/c which is just superb), although it does work to some extent if I try it, which is not often at all. Will have to check the pressures again.
 

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Last night, I wiped some bird droppings off the hood of my '73 Spider (I do this daily, since the car is under a tree). I put some synthetic wax (sealant) on the hood, nose and front fenders, then I put the top down for a drive. It was a beautiful evening 9:00 or so and around 75 degrees, nice dry air, cloudless night! Perfect for a convertible!!!

I pulled out of the driveway and drove her gently to let her warm up. About a mile later, she was nice and warm, so let the motor sing a little, then off to Pizza Rev for dinner. After dinner, I took her for another short drive through the neighborhood and into the next town (Sierra Madre). I was getting ready to turn right on Baldwin, when I see a police officer, so I took it easy. After a mile or so of 30 mph law abiding speed, I then turned left on Michelinda and opened her up. Turned right on Foothill and let that twin cam sing!!! Then home, top up and doors locked.
 

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Wow, can’t believe it’s been six years since I bought my 164 and started posting in this section. Speaking of A/C it’s been probably four years now since restoring it and it still works! Outer front door handle finally gave up the ghost though so I need to dig up the spare I’ve had in waiting. Also the sunroof doesn’t open anymore, moves about a quarter inch then stops. Vent action still works.
When driving my 95 ls from Montreal, just acquired, without proper testing of all buttons (bad me), the roof would open and stick about halfway when closing or not close at all. Luckily, it was August and not rainy. I drove most of the way with the roof fully open and after many prods of the button, got it to close in my driveway. It's not the mechanism but likely your buttons. I opened up the pad and replaced the small bimetal button with one from an old electronics panel from a trashed t.v. I kept some buttons around for my son's hobby-play as he liked electronics. It's been perfect since.
 

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Not alot of Alfa time over the last 2 weeks due to my DD blowing a steering rack and pump (2007 Santa Fe). Convinced that I would rather not get my hands dirty, I ordered a rack ($275 cdn plus $75 core) and decided to get a labor quote from my local mechanic. He came up with 7 hours (alignment included, I think) plus any other issues that may crop up and that convinced me to get my hands dirty as were were a week from our road trip to Boston area. So, dug in and got it done but it made the rack swap from the 164 look like nothing. Add the need for 2 hoses at around $200 (Hyundai would have been $350 and one was not currently available) and the labor and parts for the mechanic would have amounted to around just over $1000. My dirty knuckles covered the hotel bill.
Rack is now fine but my abs and esc are buggered up to the point I had to remove the fuse.
Back to Alfa, I had started the sound proof improvement exercise and am at the stage where I am laying in a 2nd layer of sound proofing material under the back seat, deck and under the rear floor and also in the trunk. The rear seat has a felt-rubber (tar?) pad that extends most of the way from left to right but there are a few areas it does not cover and those areas are open to the trunk, one on either side, large enough for your fist or friendly rodents. The felt and rubber mat under the rear deck cover was partly digested by mice so hat area will be covered as well. I stripped everything off of the deck area. note that the speaker supports are riveted to the deck (rear parts) and held in front by bolts. I will add some images as I proceed but this weekend will be a catch-up one for laundry and other chores.
As for the sound proofing materials, much ambiguity regarding what works and what doesn't. Commercial stereo-mats can become very expensive, hovering around $2-8 per sq ft. Some have heat reflecting backing and others do not. The ratings are not universal so it seems that many suppliers attach whatever numbers they like. So, an STC28 (for sound absorption) may or may not be consistent. Sound deflection material, as opposed to absorption, uses another rating system, that used for construction as sound deflection material is used in condos under laminate and has to have a minimum rating of 50 but uses IIC ratings (sometimes known by other names) and IIC is used for impact absorption rather than sound penetration. I am using IIC 72 rated material that one site did translate to STC 30ish but other sites claim no such translation exists. So, I conducted my own tests. Using a speaker and cardboard box, I found that: placing the speaker in a box, sealing the box and playing a passage, I measured the sound level at around XX decibels (as I have discarded the exact numbers), xx-4 decibels when measured with the inside of the box layered with retail available sound deadening material with one side reflective surface. xx-6 decibels with the box layered with the IIc72 material. I went with the II72 pad and as it was more readily available, being designed and sold for flooring use, a 200sq ft pad cost me around $40 so not a huge financial risk. Another benefit of this pad is that it is very thin, around 2mm and I can add 2 layers versus the 5-6mm thickness of the other "made for sound systems" pad. I will post more as I progress.
 

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Thank you so much. I am having ground problems with my 1990 Spider too...drove me crazy until I found the ground issue...must start replacing all ground wires and make sure the make good contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #14,239
I washed BB1 my 164L w/S engine and then turned it around in driveway and covered it up. Washed our Jeeps, too. Going to our local branch Alfa dinner meeting tomorrow night by car-pooling in my bud Skip's Giulia Ti.
 

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Took BB1 for morning drive in VB

Took BB1 for morning drive in Virginia Beach from Rudee Inlet to Cavilier Hotel with stops along the way at DeWitt Cottage, 17th Street Park, and the restored 1927 Cavalier Hotel.

Tested out the wipers in the rain as well as the A/C. Systems check good.
 

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