[RedAlfasgoFast]

Spent many hours yesterday cleaning off 28 years of oil and grime from the front (radiator) side of the engine. Started out trying to use some Simple Green cleaner in a spray bottle and a rag, but that wasn't working. Next I went to a brass wire brush, a rag, an old tooth brush, and liberal amounts of paint thinner for the brushes. That worked good.
Also removed the old rubber bushings from the A/C compressor mount and the dog bone engine mount using the propane torch method (off the car of course and out in the backyard). Worked well, but sure makes a lot of smoke from the burning rubber. Today I will finish off cleaning the front of the engine and rebuilding the mounts.
Mike D.

 

[therealguy419]

So decided to recharge the ac as heat index will in around 110F today and tomorrow. Recharged my crown vic ac then did the alfas ac. Needle showed it needed to be filled did fill it and then it started to run a little rough when the ac compressor was on, when turning off ac it returned back to normal. I am thinking I might have a bad AC Compressor and it was not getting that cold.

It sounds like you were using the disposable cheapo fill gauges on the refrigerant bottle? If so, you could be overcharging the system which will degrade cooling and put tremendous strain on the compressor.

Using a can of A/C Pro showed that the system was empty so I started filling it just a little bit then Compressor started to struggle. Charles did say that the ac did leak.

 

[Rogue Leader]

SO it was 105 degrees here today I figured what better time to work on pulling the passenger side axle.

I didn't last more than 20 minutes. Then I had a problem with my quickjacks, so I got the car down on stands, fixed them, and got it back up and called it a day. Brutal out there.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Took the day off from Alfa related and stayed cool out of this brutal heat wave. Watching new 2018 First Man movie about Neil Armstrong on HBO.

Hope jet stream dips south as predicted next week I need to work on Jeep Grand and would like to work on BB1. Once Neville's care parts pac arrives weather permitting I will try to get BB1 ready fpr a/c service.

 

[pinino]

That's correct, fault codes don't get automatically cleared from the ecu after the cause of the fault is repaired. You need to do one of the following to remove the fault from the ecu's memory:

1) disconnect the ecu for at least 30 seconds (= disconnecting the battery)
2) start the car 60 times in succession with source of the fault corrected

Even using the Alfa Tester (= Fiat-Lancia Tester) with MA4A cartridge it is not possible to remove the fault from memory.

I found that the last code stayed in the system after I fixed the issue. In my case it was the temperature sensor in the rad. After I replaced the sensor the car ran perfectly, but the code still came up when I did the gas pedal test.

 

[beeton]

A bit of Alfa time over the last few days between outdoor work and indoor painting. A short drive in my "little Red microwave" and I really think I should get that a/c repaired. Drilled a new hole to revise the rear hanger mount on the Magna Flo muffler. The resonator and pipes I built up distorted slightly and the rear system had to be displaced 1 cm rearwards for the flanges to line up tightly. Repaired all of the sagging heat shields, large washer-sized plates cut out of clean sheet metal and painted over once installed.
I still need to either have an alignment to straighten the wheel or loosen and re position the column slightly, one or 2 teeth, to the right side.
I have this strange sunroof issue in that at speed, I cannot close the roof completely. Either the wind guard is stiff (doesn't seem so) or the roof is slightly distorted. I have to push up on the front section with one finger as I push the close button....not advisable at speed or during sudden rain.

On another note, browsing through the 2019 Sotheby auction list shows many, many older Alfas and one lonely 164 (sold for $1200.). The 164 era cars are going through the same "oh, that cousin" reaction as the Biturbo-era Maserati cars. The dealers push the history and new stuff but don't mention those periods. As Biturbo's crumble, they are slowly becoming more popular with a racer version selling for +/- $35k and basic models for $4k. Slowly, cleaner 164's may start to increase. Keep yours running.

 

[Rogue Leader]

On another note, browsing through the 2019 Sotheby auction list shows many, many older Alfas and one lonely 164 (sold for $1200.). The 164 era cars are going through the same "oh, that cousin" reaction as the Biturbo-era Maserati cars. The dealers push the history and new stuff but don't mention those periods. As Biturbo's crumble, they are slowly becoming more popular with a racer version selling for +/- $35k and basic models for $4k. Slowly, cleaner 164's may start to increase. Keep yours running.

For a car thats "unloved" every car guy I tell about that I am restoring one responds "oh man I love those". I think nice ones will appreciate somewhat some day. I mean not like big money but a respectable $15k range.

 

[beeton]

For a car thats "unloved" every car guy I tell about that I am restoring one responds "oh man I love those". I think nice ones will appreciate somewhat some day. I mean not like big money but a respectable $15k range.

Yes. When I go for drives and stop for gas, I usually get one person mentioning "nice Alfa". Consider that a basic Alfa in decent shape usually costs less than an old Honda. The Achilles heel is not reliability but the cost of basic parts and that cost results in many "hack" jobs that shorten the life of the car.
I recall, in my Biturbo era, removing a piece of plumbing and finding that the p.o. had used 2 old O rings instead of one new one. We are talking about $2 items, not expensive at all.
If I can afford original parts, I will use them but the cost factor can get crazy considering that a running model can be had for less than the sums of some key "original" components. Show me an aftermarket Timing belt tension-er bearing (they must be used in a million trucks somewhere in India), a compatible tensioner (maybe an Audi version as they seem to be similar?), shock struts that aren't insanely expensive and I would be a happy lad.

 

[144]

Necessity is the mother of invention . . . on the hyd tensioner bearing, since they're still obtainable (albeit expensive), there's not much call to come up with something different. If they go extinct, then I'm sure a new carrier center could be easily fabricated for a slightly different inner race size.

 

[RedAlfasgoFast]

Temp was 100 degrees here. So I decided to paint the intake plenum and cam covers with black wrinkle coat paint. Turned out great. I have learned that this paint works best on hot days. This evening when it cools down a bit I will install the new water pump and maybe the new timing belt on my 164s resurrection project. Need to get this car reassembled in time for Concorso Italiano in August.

 

[Del]

After straightening out the 91S RHS handbrake cable along the trailing arm and spraying Blaster on the kinked areas of the cable outer casing, the cable seems to have freed itself up. Don't know just how long that will last, so I ordered a new cable. We shall see.

Also, after having bled the offending circuit (RF and LR brakes) for the brake hydraulic system, that circuit doesn't seem to offend anymore, ie, not beginning to apply the brakes in that circuit while just driving down the road. I'm hoping that it was just crud under the associated seal in the master, although I do have a new master in my stock. I plan on bleeding both brake circuits, and the clutch circuit as well, soon, just to get rid of any old contaminated fluid.

Of course, yesterday the handbrake warning light came on, even with the handle down, and temperature checks indicate no overly hot rear brakes. Have to find that sensor/switch, must be near the handle.

 

[Del]

Yup, discovered that the ha ndbrake switch had fallen apart. couldn't figure out how to remove it yet, so just shorted out the two contacts with a large screw to put the light out.

Anyone know just how that switch can be removed from it's little bracket?

Lifted up the center console but couldn't see enough to tell. Didn't really feel like totally removing the console. It isn't important anyway, just another extra light. After all, you know when the handbrake is off when the handle is down. And if the cable is hanging up somewhere, the handle ends up with extra play in it which tells you something is amiss.

 

[pinino]

...

Anyone know just how that switch can be removed from it's little bracket?

I seem to remember that it is just a press in fit with a plastic lock or locks, you will have the pull out the entire console to get your fingers on it. I have a spare if you get desperate.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

I seem to remember that it is just a press in fit with a plastic lock or locks, you will have the pull out the entire console to get your fingers on it. I have a spare if you get desperate.

You also have to loosen the deep 13mm hex head adjusting nut to loosen brake cable enough to lift the handle way up so contact tab on lever will let you extract switch from it's circular mounting bracket.

You will probably find the guts of the switch with contacts that wires hooked to, the end cap, spring and plunger laying on floor under switch housing.

I think if you just jumper the two wires together the dash light will stay out. Switch housing a real bear to get out of lever bracket with lever assembly attached to floor with those allen head bolts.

 

[Del]

"I think if you just jumper the two wires together the dash light will stay out."

Yup. I just ran a big screw in the plunger hole in the switch remnants, using washers to span the two contacts to short them out and put out the light. The rest of the switch housing is still in it's fitting.

I strongly suspect that this switch will never get replaced, lol.

I also recommend that anyone with a 164 take a look at the mounting of the RHS handbrake cable, and release that cable from the two aft mounts, and then zip tie it to the trailing arm in a fairly straight path in order to remove the troublesome kinks which are put into the cable as compared to the LHS. I plan on taking a look at the cable on my LS soon, after doing this on my 91S.

thanks, all.

BTW, let my membership to the Alfa Club lapse again, at least for a while (had been a member decades ago, but got tired of wondering just who was sleeping with whom in the local), as I decided that it seems to be just for much older Alfas (and somewhat the newest) and their fans, nothing for models such as the 164 (the forgotten Alfa), of which I am a fan, after having owned many Alfas since my 64 Sprint GT (which I really did like, putting 260k miles on it). And, to boot, most of those who I know who own 164s don't seem to be in the Club, or active in it.

Have always supported the Marque since 64, waved to and acknowledged other Alfa owners, tried to help those in need, and been to the Museo, as well as driving Alfas in Italy, but somehow... guess I'm just a loner, lol.

 

[Luigim]

"I think if you just jumper the two wires together the dash light will stay out."

Yup. I just ran a big screw in the plunger hole in the switch remnants, using washers to span the two contacts to short them out and put out the light. The rest of the switch housing is still in it's fitting.

I strongly suspect that this switch will never get replaced, lol.

I also recommend that anyone with a 164 take a look at the mounting of the RHS handbrake cable, and release that cable from the two aft mounts, and then zip tie it to the trailing arm in a fairly straight path in order to remove the troublesome kinks which are put into the cable as compared to the LHS. I plan on taking a look at the cable on my LS soon, after doing this on my 91S.

thanks, all.

BTW, let my membership to the Alfa Club lapse again, at least for a while (had been a member decades ago, but got tired of wondering just who was sleeping with whom in the local), as I decided that it seems to be just for much older Alfas (and somewhat the newest) and their fans, nothing for models such as the 164 (the forgotten Alfa), of which I am a fan, after having owned many Alfas since my 64 Sprint GT (which I really did like, putting 260k miles on it). And, to boot, most of those who I know who own 164s don't seem to be in the Club, or active in it.

Have always supported the Marque since 64, waved to and acknowledged other Alfa owners, tried to help those in need, and been to the Museo, as well as driving Alfas in Italy, but somehow... guess I'm just a loner, lol.

Will definitely check that cable run...and with the money I save from not paying my club dues, be happy to buy you a pint if we are ever in the same pub...or wine, I am not biased.

 

[Luigim]

 

[Luigim]

at 2.48 we can see the handbrake cable quite clearly

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Well, drove BB1 from Base Navy Gateway Inn to hobby shop at 1100 and drove Jeep away at 1600 hours with new water pump and repaired blower motor resistor wiring. So now have no coolant leaks and blower blows on full speed again.

Had to reuse blower resistor speed controller as Amazon chincom knockoff new one wired backwards and blower ran full speed as soon as battery hooked back up. I was too tired to try to reverse pins in new OEM connector as I had been up 12 hours by then.

Left BB1 at hobby shop until ML gets back to drive me over.to pick it up.

We will vacate hotel tomorrow and go back to beach house. We will be playing musical cars and trailer tomorrow.

I may get some time next week to work on BB1. The jeep problems sure messed with my Alfa related maintenance plans big time.

 

[horsewidower]

"The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry."