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Huge progress this weekend. Finished the NiCopp brake lines, Installed some of the steel braided lines, rebuilt the rear cradle and installed, roughed in the rear Yellowspeed Coilovers.



The little hex port right by the clutch lever there, is that the fill port? Seems like a pain to get to, I may just pull one of the sensors instead.





I need to pull this out and re-do it. I realized I used too many thick washers and therefore couldn't lock the bolts down without locking the arms to the cradle. No big deal though to fix.





Just stuck the bottom bolt in there to hold the arms in place and off the ground.

I feel like i'm in the home stretch here, still need to do a bunch to the front end, but the brake lines were really just a massive time suck.
2nd picture from last... the splash guard-under-tray, to the left, some rust starting under the undercoat at he bolt points...I think if you remove the plastic tray you will find many more rusty spots starting, hopefully not too serious. That is a trouble spot.
 

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Removed the flex pipes and resonator again. I measured the weld points and spot welded the resonator pipes during a fitting and all seemed fine but I think the heat may have changed things a bit. The header pipes did not want to align and as they have protrusions that hold the gaskets in place, I think the front one simply wasn't seated properly, leading to the leak and my code 1221. I am buying smaller bolts for the front and will seat and then tighten up one side so I can again drill through to make sure the holes are aligned. That should do it.
I have a Walker gasket that fits the joint perfectly but when I purchased an aftermarket version, the only one the supplier had, the i/d was almost 2mm tighter and would not seat. So, the search for a new gasket will continue Monday.
 

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2nd picture from last... the splash guard-under-tray, to the left, some rust starting under the undercoat at he bolt points...I think if you remove the plastic tray you will find many more rusty spots starting, hopefully not too serious. That is a trouble spot.
Yeah under that tray is a rot hole. The trunk seal leaks somewhere above that on to that spot and below, also the P/s rear quarter has rot, the usual spots. When the car goes for body work all that will be fixed by the shop.
 

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Took BB1 to C&C this morning. Good to see the old gang. I will try to add pix.


Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk
 

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Yeah under that tray is a rot hole. The trunk seal leaks somewhere above that on to that spot and below, also the P/s rear quarter has rot, the usual spots. When the car goes for body work all that will be fixed by the shop.

My problem are exactly. Had to replace much of the metal around the tow hook area. I don't think it is the above problem but the below problem with rust starting at the bolts holding the tray in place (as I think the tray holds moisture in) and that rot works into the seam and up to the gas cap area. If you stop it early enough, you can keep it from becoming fatal.
 

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Code 1221, IIRC, is a fault in the AFM. When my LS got this, it was the multiwire connector to it which was dirty and not making a proper connection. Needed to be cleaned and protected with dielectric grease.
AFM? Air Flow Meter? Is this related to the lambda sensor maybe? That is the only wire up area I may have messed up while removing the converter. I got this reading after starting the car up and it did a have a noticeable leak at the front header-flex connection due to an unseated gasket. I re-seated the gasket, both front and rear and believe the leak is all gone. I had disconnected the battery for 20 seconds between starts but still have the 1221. The resonator section was loosely fitted as I may have to revise slightly. Would lack of back pressure cause this reading and is this a sigh that I should change to a higher back pressure version?
 

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"AFM? Air Flow Meter? Is this related to the lambda sensor maybe?"

It's the big metal and plastic device mounted between the air filter box and the corrugated rubber intake hose. It has a multiwire connector attached to it. As with many other connections in these hot dirty 164 engine bays, with old age and many miles, this connector can get dirty, and not fully make all contacts in the plug, even if you hadn't touched it. thus a 1221 code. Most likely needs to be cleaned with electronics cleaner spray, and then protected with dielectric grease.

Not directly related to the lambda sensor, the AFM measuring the intake air volume/mass as input to the engine computer. The lambda sensor signal just tweaks the mixture a little to reduce combustion pollutant output, leaning out the mixture slightly. That's not a big deal.
 

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My problem are exactly. Had to replace much of the metal around the tow hook area. I don't think it is the above problem but the below problem with rust starting at the bolts holding the tray in place (as I think the tray holds moisture in) and that rot works into the seam and up to the gas cap area. If you stop it early enough, you can keep it from becoming fatal.
My Gas cap area:



I already have a perfect mint rear quarter to replace it from Richard2
 

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To quote the great Daffy Duck....
"You morooon, you nin-com-----poop", I refer to myself.
My code 1221 was due to an loosely connected afm harness.
Have a great day.
 

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Yup, that's exactly what happened to my LS, the connection being dirty, having not been routinely cleaned and re-protected for a few years. I always tell people to first easily check all the electrical connections in these dirty engine bays, so maybe I should follow my own advice, lol.
 

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Yup, that's exactly what happened to my LS, the connection being dirty, having not been routinely cleaned and re-protected for a few years. I always tell people to first easily check all the electrical connections in these dirty engine bays, so maybe I should follow my own advice, lol.
I took your advice
 

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Brake calipers are now red:



Drivers front suspension is almost complete:



Man that control arm can be a pain to install, needed to get it into place with a pry bar as the bolt holes didn't line up very well.

Did some finishing work in the engine bay, tightened down all those brake lines I replaced. I swapped the transmission fluid for 2 quarts of Redline 75w90 I had left over from my race car.

Ended up removing the rear cradle again. I discovered that I had the wrong combination of washers on the bolts on top, also that I need to put that together AFTER installing the brake proportioning lever. So correct me if I'm wrong but the top bolt needs to be only lightly snugged up, the clip on caps attached to the top washer between that and the thick washer on the other side provide tension to keep the nut from vibrating off. I figured to add some RED Loctite to the top nut as well. The bottom bolt looks like it has the room for the nut to bottom out if I don't use too many thick washers.

Will put that back in next week, I should have my new lever and valve from Jason by then.
 

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Brake calipers are now red:



Drivers front suspension is almost complete:



Man that control arm can be a pain to install, needed to get it into place with a pry bar as the bolt holes didn't line up very well.

Did some finishing work in the engine bay, tightened down all those brake lines I replaced. I swapped the transmission fluid for 2 quarts of Redline 75w90 I had left over from my race car.

Ended up removing the rear cradle again. I discovered that I had the wrong combination of washers on the bolts on top, also that I need to put that together AFTER installing the brake proportioning lever. So correct me if I'm wrong but the top bolt needs to be only lightly snugged up, the clip on caps attached to the top washer between that and the thick washer on the other side provide tension to keep the nut from vibrating off. I figured to add some RED Loctite to the top nut as well. The bottom bolt looks like it has the room for the nut to bottom out if I don't use too many thick washers.

Will put that back in next week, I should have my new lever and valve from Jason by then.
What brand are those Coilovers?
 

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What brand are those Coilovers?
Yellow Speed

https://yellowspeedracingusa.com/collections/all/products/dynamic-pro-sport-coilovers-alfa-romeo

Funny enough the pictures of them on their website are mine I posted on Instagram and Facebook, I (at least at that point) had the only set in the country. Yellow Speed USA didn't know their European and Asian counterparts offered them, until I asked if they can get them here. I started a whole thread on them I planned to update once I got the car together and I actually tried them out. I will say so far they fit perfectly, everything is very precise, for example the spacer on the front fit in there like a glove.

They are made to order, takes about a month to get them.
 

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Certainly something to keep in mind if one doesn't want to rebuild the S "electro" shocks or find good used regular 164 struts, although I suspect the price will be higher by a bit. I hope you write up a manual for fitting these on a 164.

Again, how much did they finally charge you for the set? And the total cost to you of installation so far?

I wonder how they compare with those from the outfit in El Paso someone on the BB had previously mentioned?
 

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Certainly something to keep in mind if one doesn't want to rebuild the S "electro" shocks or find good used regular 164 struts, although I suspect the price will be higher by a bit. I hope you write up a manual for fitting these on a 164.

Again, how much did they finally charge you for the set? And the total cost to you of installation so far?

I wonder how they compare with those from the outfit in El Paso someone on the BB had previously mentioned?
My shocks both don't work and are rotted out so I was short on options too.

Price listed is $979, I paid $880 shipped, TBH they often have a 10% off sale code especially if you follow them on social media. As for fitting them, they so far have been completely drop in. No modification or anything required, they fit perfectly in stock mounts. Raising and lowering the height in the front is easy as you just unlock that lower collar and twist them due to the spherical bearings at the top. Rear is tougher as they are fixed so you need to either unbolt the top or bottom to raise or lower it. I kinda eyeballed it the best I could. The fronts I made just a bit shorter than the stock ones, the rears I made as tall as was safe, which is about 1 inch shorter than the stockers. However that doesn't mean it will be dropped that much as the springs are stiffer. Have to drop it on the ground to see what height it really will be. Dampers are also 33 way adjustable. I'm aiming for about a 1.5 inch drop evenly across the whole car, which will probably need some trial and error.

These guys are in El Paso, I have a whole thread on them I'll update once I can drive them. There is one other company AMR Engineering in Washington but they are twice the price, probably not any better, and the guy doesn't answer phonecalls or emails, so as far as I'm concerned he can go pound sand.
 

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Worked on putting the DIY vapor blaster cabinet together. Had help from a friend from the bay area. 4 hands made the task much easier than trying to do it alone. The caulking will cure for a week, then I'll hit it with some flex seal. After that, the fun really starts with setting up the blasting.

On a less successful note, I was supposed to go help a buddy, next weekend, put his GTV racecar back together. Unfortunately, his shop is still without electricity, so he asked to postpone until PG&E finally does the work that has been on the books for about 6 months.

So back to various Alfas and lawn equipment next weekend.
 
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