I'm in a rural area, close to urban but no one has a mandrel for pipe bending. Will be visiting a shop tomorrow morning to buy pre formed parts and will join them to get he best fit. These will be stainless and they will also make a connector from 2.25 inch (stock pipe) to 3 inc (new inlet). Will post before and after images later.most of the time, in my experience, auto muffler shops work with and have tools for, 1 1/2" pipe.
maybe if they handle trucks, they may have larger bore setups. just a thought
One time, Did as you describe, bought the best pieces I could find and made the system work, then drove gingerly to the muffler place and had them weld the joints.I'm in a rural area, close to urban but no one has a mandrel for pipe bending. Will be visiting a shop tomorrow morning to buy pre formed parts and will join them to get he best fit. These will be stainless and they will also make a connector from 2.25 inch (stock pipe) to 3 inc (new inlet). Will post before and after images later.
The bent one wasn't so much a problem, after not finding one I decided I was going to have the machine shop just bend it back into shape and then take both with me next weekend to my next race and have my buddy box weld them on the spot. The ancient beat up bushings however were the issue, and there seems to be no replacement.If I ended up with a bent one, I would straighten it back and then put a comparable rod or tube along side, held on with about four good band clamps. The thusly attached rod supplies the necessary bending strength so that the original but damaged strut will not buckle under compression load. Tension loads would not be a problem.
Agree that it might look cludgey but should do the job.
Seems like one might be able to make a strut from tubing with rod ends w/bushings, or just ball joints, kinda standard aerospace. And, there are companies which do make them, used a couple on a satellite I helped design years back.
You need to email them, they will figure out shipping and then add the option for you. It cost me $37.50 for DHL express which should get here in 3 or so days. They had a $7 cheaper shipping option that would take 5 to 30 days, but I'd rather have them sooner than later and the price difference was so small it didn't matter.Tried to order 3rd one but no shipping option would come up for two addresses I tried. Did you have a good shipping option that worked for you?
I agree 100% this could pretty easily be made, you just need to worry about setting up for the proportioning valve actuator, so you'd need to weld on some appropriate studs on one end of each to hold it in place, and keep the bushings small enough for it to go around. I was thinking more box steel or tube steel with 2 ends on it. Heck there are even websites that will make them to order for you.Take a look at McMaster Carr catalog, they have ball joint ends in right and left hand thread. I am not sure about metric threads, buy I wouldn't balk at using SAE threads down there, where nobody can see them.
In SAE, it wouldn't be too hard to make up the center piece length to suit, hexagonal stock and taps are available at McM/C also.
If you must have them in soft suspension, like the original rubber, then surely it wouldn't be too hard to re-cast the originals in medium polyurethane. as Beeton did with his engine mounts. My 2 cents, FWIW.