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hot here too. Close to 100 today. So Rossa is due her 2 yr inspection tomorrow. What is that? Biennial? Anyway I took the wheels off and put the originals back on since over sized tires will fail and the guy does check. The other 2 cars sailed thru last week and she's last in the Que. Had A/C installed a few weeks ago in the house and it is NICE!!! Otherwise life chugs on. Ciao, Chris
 

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Well...

Spent last week trying to get a 3 column combination switch that I bought from Classic Alfa in the UK to work on my 81 Spider, as the old one disintegrated.

Realized that the switch was really a Fiat part - wired differently at the 8-pin block with different colored wires...

Decided I didn't feel sitting for hours with a multi-meter to re-wire the switch and the block.

Bought a used exact replacement switch on EBay (there were actually 2 for sale!)

Installed it in and hour, got the steering wheel back on quicker than I thought (thanks to ALFAbb for the hint on vice grips to hold the sleeve back in order to re-install the woodruff key!).

I'm up and running, though my indicator dash light is always on - suspect I installed the flasher incorrectly, will fix today.

In the meantime also installed new door handles, found out the Chrome Mirrors I ordered from Classic Alfa don't fit (though they assured me they would). and installed new interior trim above the windshield.
 

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Having noticed a small coolant drop appear overnight on the base of the front head on the transmission side, I decided (with fingers crossed) to do the recommended re-torque on both heads. The engine has 105k kms on it and no evidence of water getting to the oil side. I checked the valve clearance at the same time and cleaned the oil separation canister while I had it out. After washing the canister a few times with paint thinner, I put the air hose on it to blow through it and to my surprise a small hole opened in the plug pressed into the bottom of the can. It had obviously corroded, even though it is a copper plug, through some sort of galvanic action. I was able to clean it up and solder it over, the fix resisted an effort to pressure up the canister with compressed air so I'll just wait and watch how it performes. The only other unusual event in the job was firing it up after getting everything back into place. It started almost instantly but two idiot lights did not extinguish as usual, the battery light (wasn't charging) and the anti lock breaks. After a few restarts and some poking around they both dissapeared so not sure what was going on there.

Bart
'91 164S
 

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That oil separator canister is under a negative pressure, so any leaks in that area suck un metered tramp air into the engine affecting idle and other things. Your leak may be small enough so you don't notice it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13,385 (Edited)
Replaced the shredded serpentine belt on BB2 this morning with new Dayco 5070425 packaged by CARQUEST aka Advance Auto.

Old belt let go as I was leaving grocery store yesterday and got home before engine could overheat, lucky me!

Not enough left of old belt to tell the brand. I installed new timing belt 02-17 at 154K now have 155K on car, but don't know if I installed new serpentine belt then. I will keep date and mileage on all belts now. Plan to replace alternator belt this fall when I have all my parts in Florida.

Don't get much driving 164 in nowadays with all the other stuff we have had going on the last year or so.

I am gonna drive BB2 across town now to pick up a reserved DVD for ML in a few minutes.

We are heading back to VA next week in the 04 Grand C Jeep pulling trailer full of empty boxes to pack up for next trip in September. Hope to bring some more 164 stuff then.

I managed to bring 164S mid and rear Strebo muffler, S deck lid/spoiler and 164B velour seats in amongst furniture and stuff for ML this last trip week ago.
 

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A young guy at work recently bought a 2018 Giulia. Blue with black roof, and wheels that look like the Quadrifoglio. First one I got an up close look at, and I like it a lot. That’s about all Alfa related for the past couple of days. Too sticky and hot for my AC delete rig, and I didn’t feel like sweating. Had enough over the weekend.
 

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That shredded belt is really something.

The white 164 is one nice looking car, mate.

Finally cooled off here down to low 70's, but will rise next week to the low/mid 80's. Hoping for a little rain, as the cracks in the ground are getting wider. Humidity is up, to about 50%, but of course, we don't feel it.

Hauled a ton (a couple hundred pounds actually) of old rotten decking to the refuse transfer station. The S back seat and trunk are full of old shreds of rotten cedar, even having used drop cloths under the wood. Getting time to totally clean the interior, including the shoe dye routine and smooshing in some leather care lotion. The black leather S seats still look pretty darn good. Same for the instrument hood, almost not warped at all, and still nice leather. I always have the cowl and top of steering wheel covered with a big towel when not used.
 

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Discussion Starter #13,390 (Edited)
Drove BB2 to Crowder' Ace Hardware yesterday and found syn Pennzoil on sale and met a clerk in plumbing section named Mark who also recently moved here from Virgina Beach. This place is an amazing small small world after all.

Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk
 

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Diagnosed a front end noise yesterday, Found a bad ball joint. The ball joint is made by FRAP which I normally NEVER use but replaced a few years back with both new ones on front when doing suspension. I don't know why I used them, probably what I had in stock at the time. I have less than 10K miles since then and it's toast. Clunking and spewing grease.

Soooo. I have OEM TRW ball joints that may be going in. I will never use another FRAP product if I can. I don't even stock anything of FRAP anymore as I found the products to be very low quality and not last worth a $hi#. I also have some very well made ball joints from the UK. Not a Cast but machined at the bottom, those might be an option as well. Looks well made and sturdy. This car is starting to wear on me... :(

So this is what I will be doing today. Yay!
 

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So I'm having an issue with my 164, the keyfob works sometimes and does not work most of the time. I have replaced the battery in the fob but to no avail. It worked for a bit but then decided it wouldn't work again. Any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks.
 

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Diagnosed a front end noise yesterday, Found a bad ball joint. The ball joint is made by FRAP which I normally NEVER use but replaced a few years back with both new ones on front when doing suspension. I don't know why I used them, probably what I had in stock at the time. I have less than 10K miles since then and it's toast. Clunking and spewing grease.

Soooo. I have OEM TRW ball joints that may be going in. I will never use another FRAP product if I can. I don't even stock anything of FRAP anymore as I found the products to be very low quality and not last worth a $hi#. I also have some very well made ball joints from the UK. Not a Cast but machined at the bottom, those might be an option as well. Looks well made and sturdy. This car is starting to wear on me... :(

So this is what I will be doing today. Yay!
Need a wheel bearing too. Grinding noise making right turns. Fun Fun!
 

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Ok key fob issue — if this is 24v car, 95 % of the time the issue is one of these
0. Bad battery of poor battery contact. When u press the fob, the red LED should blink about once per second kind of bright.
1. Bad solder joint on the IR transmitter LED IN THE FOB. To fix, open the fob and carefully reflow the solder joints. While u are doing this, use isopropyl alcohol and clean the led bulb, and the smoked plastic cover.
2. Bad connection or dirty receiver — pull off the Smokey gray / purple cover CAREFULLY so u don’t break the two little arms that hold it up. Then, u will see a ring array of LED receivers. Using forceps, gently pull it up and down— it rides on wires and can move 1/2 inch up and down. Move it up and down a couple times to wipe the contacts clean. Again, clean thE LEDS with a alcohol wipe, and the inside and outside of the grey cover. Sitting in the car, with door closed try it. If good replace cover carefully.
 

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Also on the fob, it’s got pretty short range. I sit in the car and troubleshoot it when I feel like it. Try it in the dark as well since it does see a fair amount of background at the detector (ie high noise floor) typically
 

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Repairing the trunk lid paint on the black S. I tried sanding it down to just coat over it, but the cracking shows through when recoating with base, so I'm having to take it down to primer . . and I guess putting a new coat of primer, then base, then clear. The factory base coat is pretty hard stuff to get off. Since the very rear vertical part of the lid is still in perfect shape, I'm going to blend the paint underneath the spoiler where it can't be seen.

I'm going to spray it with a base coat (AR601) custom spray cans from automotivetouchup.com and the 2-part clear coat SprayMAX (nasty stuff, need to use a good mask they say).

Has anyone had decent luck doing this kind of thing?
 

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Rattle cans work well make sure you buy more than you think you need. You need to put the paint on thick enough just in case you have orange pill and you going to have to wet sand it down. Not a pro just done it a couple times. Remember many thin coats make for a good finish.


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The rear fin is not difficult to take off, just several bolts, have done it without any trouble. That would make life easier when painting the lid.
 
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