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86 Veloce
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Discussion Starter #1
So it was time to start the break in procedure. Took all the plugs out and turned it over until I got oil pressure. I turned it over until it hit 57. Shut it down, put everything back together and prepared myself for the 20-30 min fast idle to break in the cams.
Started right up, for a second. Then it coughed, sputtered and quit. Then it kinda acted like it was out of ignition timing. Pulled the dist. cap off and turned it over to TDC and realized the rotor never moved. Pulled the rotor off and looked at the drive gear. No movey. What could I have done?
 

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pulll the distributor, remove the O ring from the shaft, observe that the dog that mates with the oil pump has one piece a bit thicker than the other. Place the O ring onto the sealing surface of the timing cover. Line up the distributor dog and FULLY insert the distributor. try to rotate the rotor and verify that it will not move. Snug up clamps. Verify that your timing is correct and not 180 degrees out. Start the motor. It should be fine.
 

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86 Veloce
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Discussion Starter #3
Verified drive not rotating with engine.
 

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Verified drive not rotating with engine.
Distributor shaft not rotating? Or drive inside engine not turning?
Distributor drive gear has a roll pin holding it to the shaft. Fall out or break?
 

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Distributor shaft not rotating? Or drive inside engine not turning?
Distributor drive gear has a roll pin holding it to the shaft. Fall out or break?
You know, that's a good question. The way SkiBum wrote his responses, it really isn't clear that he pulled the distributor and watched the slot in the oil pump shaft as he turned the engine.

If it's just the distributor that isn't turning, it could be something far less drastic than a sheared oil pump shaft. Perhaps as simple as not fully seating the distributor when it was first installed.
 

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Ski what’s the story? I m thinking like the gang — dist not fully seated. What I do is put the o-ring in the cover, drop the dist down, and once it hits bottom I spin the rotor slowly while pushing down a little. It will drop 1/8 inch with a “clunk” and now you know it’s fully seated
 

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Pump drive sheared he says so in the thread above that Eric linked to Oil pump drive issues.
Don't you just love it when BB users create multiple threads on the same topic at the same time. Makes you feel like an idiot.

Some tough moderator should just merge the two.....
 

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You have the patience of a saint.
 

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Ski contacted me about building him a pump, and I requested he pull and photo the dead one for me. He is probably doing that.
BTW:
My Victory Garden this year has been planted with two rows of Quilted Northern Ultra Plush.
(sorry, couldn't resist. The self quarantine is responsible.)
 

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Use your imagination....
 

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SkiBum, when you install the oil pump you must turn the crank to seat the pump. If you do not, you risk breaking the shaft when the pump binds against the drive gear. Once the pump is seated you go around the 3 bolts tightening them until they are seated in place. Then again rotate the crank to ensure it is not binding.

The lesser of the two is that the distributor was never seated into the oil pump drive due to the newly installed distributor Oring.
 

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86 Veloce
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Discussion Starter #19
I mistakenly started this thread in the Spider forum but realized the tech forum is where is should be. Easy Jay! So I pulled the engine and confirmed that the shaft was seized due to my negligence. Where it was binding is where the distributor drive sits in the cover housing. When out it is hard to tell that the shaft is tweaked but cannot reinsert pump. No damage to drive gear that I can see but brass pump gear shows considerable damage. Got it all apart and cleaned well, will inspect closer tomorrow and reassemble PROPERLY this time. To confess, not knowing any better the first time I put the front cover together before my new distributor came.... lesson learned. By this next weekend I should be back to where I was......
 

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The crank drive gear is hard to ruin, but it can be done. Pumps are EASY to trash. Somewhere I wrote up a lengthy pump installation discussion, both front cover off, and front cover on the assembled engine. This is NOT always a simple job and requires some experience with the difficult ones.
Once the pump upper body aluminum casting is "bent" by incorrect installation, the main shaft bind is then forever, and leads to metal transfer pits on the bronze crank driven gear, or worse. A pump bent by incorrect installation is pretty much toast.
 
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