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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
It is part # 01.06.44.503.00 and is shown in the picture. It connects to the bell crank and the horizontal throttle rod at the firewall. Or has anyone come up with a good alternative?
Thanks.
 

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Premium Member
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2,640 Posts
Spring

101 or 105 Alfa?
Parts diagram seems to indicate 101
105 is different.
Cheers, Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My car is a 105 but Gordon Raymond told me this spring is the correct one.
 

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Ed,

At One Time I Had This Spring (NOS). I Will Look For It Over The Weekend In My Various Stashes Of Parts And Let You Know If I Find It.

-John
 

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Spring

I have a 105 spring...it goes from the crossover shaft to the firewall flange where the throttle linkage is located.
Cheers, Jon
 

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11,562 Posts
I need a spare l o n g spring too.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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10,511 Posts
My hardware store has the "big wall of springs". Yours probably does too. I'd just buy a few in close to the right size and you'll find something that works.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
McMaster Carr have some long springs in their catalog but I would prefer to get the right one.
 

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Found It!

Buried In My Old Machinist Tool Box, I Bought This Spring When I Worked In Parts At An Alfa Dealer Over 35 Years Ago, This Part Should Probably Go On A Spider Veloce Or Sprint Speciale Restoration (#101.06.44.503.00), The Total Length Of The Spring Is Approximately 8-7/16", The Closed Coil Length Is Approximately 6", Alfaholics Has A Throttle Return Spring Kit (different design) On Their Website For About 15 Pounds, I Want Entirely Too Much Money For What This Part Is (a spring), However It Might Be Good Trading Material.

-John
 

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Richard Jemison
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Spring

That spring would seam superflous. It accomplishes nothing relatice to closing the carbs..
I`ve never encountered one in 45 years of messing with this stuff.

With your issue of the rear carb not closing all the way the suspect spring is the internal one in the chamber between the butterflies behind the plate.

Since these carbs had the wrong syncronizing linkage on them when they were here for mods, you said you were going to swap to the old linkage from the 40 DCOEs. Are you sure you dont have the arm on that carb compressed against the body of the carb? Loosen the nut and see if that resolves the failure to close completely. They seemed to be fine with the aftermarket linkage on them.

Be sure the long rod is adjusted correctly. Too long and the long arm from the accelerator assembly will rest against the body/brake lines or other such clutter, preventing the linkage to return the carbs to idle.

Sometimes to get enough carb shaft motion to fully open the carbs, the shorter arm on the bell crank needs to be shortened to decrease the leaver point to get a higher % of motion on the arm pulling the carb open.
 

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Uh Richard? I built the Webers and they both have new "race" springs. They slam shut with authority without the linkage installed. I'm pretty sure it's not the Webers. The spring discussed is not a Weber closing spring so much as a linkage "back-to-0-" spring. If the linkage is wrong, you can't close that rear Weber.
Just a thought. All I've done for you slam shut, don't they?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It is not a linkage problem. I disconnected it and the rear carb was not closing all the way. I synched the carbs this morning and it idled beautifully. But now I have a bigger problem - no compression, a damaged spark plug and a bent valve on #3 cylinder.
 

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Ed? What's happening? Why didn't the rear close? WHY did you bend a valve? Bent enough to mess up the plug? We NEED pictures. This IS getting interesting!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I probably dropped a nut into the plenum and did not see it. I was cruising at about 55 mph then a loud rattle and a loss of power. Hopefully the piston and valve seat are not damaged.

RJ may be right about the carb not closing all the way - maybe I over-tightened the nut when I swapped actuators.
 

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