Weber F16 Emulsion Tubes
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Given that Weber jets don’t particularly wear, what would be the motivation for discounting? I have a spare set, but not interested in charity. I might need them some day, possibly helping a friend. However, if you can’t find them elsewhere, I don’t need these currently.
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I bought a set from an ebay seller in the Czech Republic at a very reasonable price. I needed a second set for some trials and the first thing that I did was comparative tests between the old ones and the new ones and there was no difference.
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"Given that Weber jets don’t particularly wear"
I have some antique idle jets stamped EW. These idles do not perform where they should on the Shankle Automotive diagram. They lean out. The new ones above and below where these antiques are perform as the Shankle scale says they should. I tried cleaning them, gently, but unsuccessfully. I suspect corrosion or gunk or a different grading scale.
So I think they can "wear out."
Don't buy those F16's. Contact Keith Franck and buy some VF tubes to try out. I want to find out how well they work. Venturi Fountain Tubes You might like them better and can let us all know. Thanks in advance.
I just found this remarkable work to read for your interest:
www.alfabb.com
I have some antique idle jets stamped EW. These idles do not perform where they should on the Shankle Automotive diagram. They lean out. The new ones above and below where these antiques are perform as the Shankle scale says they should. I tried cleaning them, gently, but unsuccessfully. I suspect corrosion or gunk or a different grading scale.
So I think they can "wear out."
Don't buy those F16's. Contact Keith Franck and buy some VF tubes to try out. I want to find out how well they work. Venturi Fountain Tubes You might like them better and can let us all know. Thanks in advance.
I just found this remarkable work to read for your interest:
I'll just share this here (DCOE Idle jet chart)
I made this table and chart while working to tune my 1750 with DCOE 151s I've been experimenting a bit again and resurrected it. It might be of interest to folks here. Rather than just do what others have done I read up a lot on how the webers work, what circuits are used when and general...
www.alfabb.com
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Im using the VFs in my 59 2000, which has a 2300 FNM engine. Definite improvement over the F16s, which is why I have several leftover F16s."Given that Weber jets don’t particularly wear"
I have some antique idle jets stamped EW. These idles do not perform where they should on the Shankle Automotive diagram. They lean out. The new ones above and below where these antiques are perform as the Shankle scale says they should. I tried cleaning them, gently, but unsuccessfully. I suspect corrosion or gunk or a different grading scale.
So I think they can "wear out."
Don't buy those F16's. Contact Keith Franck and buy some VF tubes to try out. I want to find out how well they work. Venturi Fountain Tubes You might like them better and can let us all know. Thanks in advance.
I just found this remarkable work to read for your interest:
I'll just share this here (DCOE Idle jet chart)
I made this table and chart while working to tune my 1750 with DCOE 151s I've been experimenting a bit again and resurrected it. It might be of interest to folks here. Rather than just do what others have done I read up a lot on how the webers work, what circuits are used when and general...
Keith has sort of discontinued the VF, although his testing continues. He now offers, I think, three different tube designs, depending upon Manifold vacuum at idle and ratio of Venturi size to cylinder volume.
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As for old Weber jets.....
They used to get redrilled when someone was monkeying around. Or, ham-fisted cleaning. However, “wear” isn’t a factor.
E-tubes particularly have large holes and no exposure to bumps, or abrasions.
But, for some people, price is a dominant consideration.
They used to get redrilled when someone was monkeying around. Or, ham-fisted cleaning. However, “wear” isn’t a factor.
E-tubes particularly have large holes and no exposure to bumps, or abrasions.
But, for some people, price is a dominant consideration.
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I was thinking wear as in getting gunked and crudded up, which is the only reason I can think why they would lean out on me.
The whole VF tube thing must have something going for it. But when I was trying to fathom it, I couldn't get a clear answer before Yahoo dropped their website for Keith's newer site hosting.
I am running F34's which perform for my 1700 conversion now. Finally got it sorted with Ben and Richard Jemison's help.
I fiddled with them with a Zeitronix O2 sensor and feel confident I won't burn my exhaust valves now or carbon my rings. I don't claim to have your racer knowledge, just fiddling knowledge.
FastRoadCars.Co.Uk gives you both, a good price, quality and new parts...........One man show not big business Pierce Manifolds or cranky like the guy in Auburn, WA.
The whole VF tube thing must have something going for it. But when I was trying to fathom it, I couldn't get a clear answer before Yahoo dropped their website for Keith's newer site hosting.
I am running F34's which perform for my 1700 conversion now. Finally got it sorted with Ben and Richard Jemison's help.
I fiddled with them with a Zeitronix O2 sensor and feel confident I won't burn my exhaust valves now or carbon my rings. I don't claim to have your racer knowledge, just fiddling knowledge.
FastRoadCars.Co.Uk gives you both, a good price, quality and new parts...........One man show not big business Pierce Manifolds or cranky like the guy in Auburn, WA.
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F34's are the only emulsion tubes that work well in higher output 2L motors with full emissions Webers eg 40DCOE72/73, 116/117, 138/139....
F41's will work fine in fine in the same carbs fitted to 1300 and 1600 motors and are OK on stock 1750 and 2L cars.
Alfa and Weber worked together to specify carbs and AFAIK they chose either F16 or F9 for classic Webers. Some of us have shown that F11's work well on hot 2L motors.
F41's will work fine in fine in the same carbs fitted to 1300 and 1600 motors and are OK on stock 1750 and 2L cars.
Alfa and Weber worked together to specify carbs and AFAIK they chose either F16 or F9 for classic Webers. Some of us have shown that F11's work well on hot 2L motors.
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I continue to follow Keith Franck’s conversation and developments. I’ll admit, while reading his posts I get a mental picture of the “doc” in “Back to the future”.
it has been only in the last few weeks that I THINK I’m grasping his concepts. The amount of hyperbole in his explanations tends to get in the way.
My 2300 engine, and another CI 2000 that I built up for a restoration, really sharpened up when I installed the VF tubes. I doubt I’ll return to the stock emulsion tube concept at this point.
it has been only in the last few weeks that I THINK I’m grasping his concepts. The amount of hyperbole in his explanations tends to get in the way.
My 2300 engine, and another CI 2000 that I built up for a restoration, really sharpened up when I installed the VF tubes. I doubt I’ll return to the stock emulsion tube concept at this point.
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Weber DCOE F16 Emulsion Tube Set of 4 | eBay
<p>Weber DCOE F16 Emulsion Tube Set of 4. Condition is "Used".</p>
www.ebay.com
Good price and located in US
not mine
-Jack
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That's very interesting but how did you decipher which VF tubes to use?
The question is did they smooth out the 3000 to 3200 transition area. That's the area that gave me trouble. It would help if I could understand why Keith thinks these work better than F series other than magical voodoo. Do you understand Don?
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The question is did they smooth out the 3000 to 3200 transition area. That's the area that gave me trouble. It would help if I could understand why Keith thinks these work better than F series other than magical voodoo. Do you understand Don?
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It’s too late tonight to try to summarize Keith’s earth shattering new concepts. Suffice to say, you have to give up trying to understand them based upon what you already know about Webers.
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The answer is to install a wideband and determine if you are rich or lean in that area, by how much and over what rpm range. Selection of idle jet, main jet, emulsion tube and fuel level will all have an impact but until you accurately define your problem you are shooting in the dark. In my experience you don't have to have a transition problem if you have a good ignition system, a wideband and an understanding of how Webers work.
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