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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

looking for a weber carb support for a 2 litre weber converted engine. Any condition provided usable.

Shipment to 06840

Thank you!
 

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$60 plus shipping Nos piece if interested.Sorry not set up for PayPal check or money order.
20190710_130634.jpg
text if needed 6145719884
 

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A 1750 support will have the same length. Some starters (big ones) require a support with a relief one that side of the strut
A 1300 or 1600 strut can be lengthened either in an un-noticeable way or a more crude but functional way. Some are also available from after market suppliers.

Ken
 

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58-61 2litre or 72- 2 litre?
 

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It looks different than the 105 and 115 cars but length should be ok .
 

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I updated the support in my 1750 GTV with the nice version sold by Centerline, $59. Fabulous results, much more robust than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I updated the support in my 1750 GTV with the nice version sold by Centerline, $59. Fabulous results, much more robust than stock.
I may go that route as well - mine is not a concourse candidate! The Centreline is even better value if I combine a few more items in the shipping.
 

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The appearance is actually quite nice but fairly hidden under the carbs. Also, important to support small business, what would we do without Centerline or Classicalfa?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The appearance is actually quite nice but fairly hidden under the carbs. Also, important to support small business, what would we do without Centerline or Classicalfa?
forgive the stupid question, but do you also need a carb support plate or can it be bolted direct to the carbs?
 

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Yes, you need to tie the carbs together to stabilize, I have a Euro airbox so that is where I bolted support. You may also want to check your bellcrank and refurb or replace. They can get sloppy. I bought the bellcrank made for Classicalfa.
 

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forgive the stupid question, but do you also need a carb support plate or can it be bolted direct to the carbs?
1750s kind of implied the answer to your question, but let me state it directly: the strut does NOT bolt directly to the carbs - the strut attaches to either the stock air box or to an aftermarket flat plate (see first photo below). And as 1750s said, that air box / plate also serves to stabilize the carbs, forcing them to vibrate as one large mass, rather than as two independent small ones.

A siamesed center manifold-carb isolater (see second photo below) will help reduce carburetor vibration as well, though that's beyond the scope of Stonewheels69's question.



 

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Discussion Starter #14
1750s kind of implied the answer to your question, but let me state it directly: the strut does NOT bolt directly to the carbs - the strut attaches to either the stock air box or to an aftermarket flat plate (see first photo below). And as 1750s said, that air box / plate also serves to stabilize the carbs, forcing them to vibrate as one large mass, rather than as two independent small ones.

A siamesed center manifold-carb isolater (see second photo below) will help reduce carburetor vibration as well, though that's beyond the scope of Stonewheels69's question.



Again, many thanks for the replies. The conversion I inherited does have the Euro air box so looks like i just need the support strut!
 

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The conversion I inherited does have the Euro air box so looks like i just need the support strut!
Yes, you definitely want a strut (which I see you have ordered) as the Euro airbox is pretty heavy. Having the box + carbs cantilevered off the rubber flex mounts will lead to premature cracking of the mounts. You should be able to see the two holes toward the top of the airbox where the 6mm bolts for the support strut go. Of course, the box will need to come off to get at the strut-motor mount bolt.
 

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Of course, the box will need to come off to get at the strut-motor mount bolt.
I have had mine in and out without removing the plenum. After the lower bolt has been removed the strut can be lifted out. Installation is the reverse - lower the big end so that it falls into the engine mount, insert the lower bolt, then the top nuts and bolts then tighten everything up. I recommend stuffing paper towel into the Weber intakes anytime that you are working with small parts. I learned the hard way when a small nut must have dropped into the plenum and then bounced into a venturi where it was out of sight and was then sucked into the combustion chamber.
 

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From above. My bolt is a cap head. I can get an Allen wrench on the forward end and a socket onto the rear facing nut. I have had plenty of practice!
 
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