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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any experience or advice on setting up a watts link on a GTV?
I'll probably take it to the specialist suspension place here that set up race cars but if its something that I can do or dial in at the track I will play with it myself.
I don't even know if its something you set and forget or something that you might adjust to tune the car.
My friend has the same set up in a GTV6 that was set up by a specialist so I have some base settings I can copy.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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All you should need to do is adjust the two rod lengths so that the center link is vertical and centered on the car with the weight on the rear axle. It's only something you'd readjust if you change ride height.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok that's easy but do I apply a certain amount of load on the rods side to side so they push against each other? Or I'm overthinking it.
Does that make sense?
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Not an expert, but from previous Milano experience and just understanding how the Watts works you'd want to set it up with no preload. So keep the nuts on the bushings loose, adjust the rods so the center link is vertical and centered, then tighten all the bushings. All needs to be done with the weight on the rear axles.

The Watts link is just there to keep the rear axle located right to left. So if you set it up properly centered with the car sitting on its wheels it'll do its job properly as the axle moves up and down within a reasonable range.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm also wondering if I put some extra weight in the boot when I set it. The body of my car weighs bugger all when its static but as soon as you hit the track the whole things under load on the throttle so should I set it with some simulated load by putting weight in the boot.
I have always just had the stock set up and I know nothing about setting this up. Again maybe I'm just over thinking things.
 

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I just read a very old post about moving the watts center pivot from the top of the dedion tube to the bottom to lower roll center. If you are going to a specialist it seems like an easy mod, I have no idea if its still a good idea with modern wisdom. I just thought it sounded cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah mine has been done already. I have a dedion frame modified by Beninca motors in the 80's. I purchased the watts link from Andy some time ago, just getting around to setting it up.
 

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Yeah mine has been done already. I have a dedion frame modified by Beninca motors in the 80's. I purchased the watts link from Andy some time ago, just getting around to setting it up.
I am mocking up a RSR rear coil spring and adjustable spring perch assembly on my 78 Alfetta GT. At the top of the adjustment, for my use, its too low. My thought is to fabricate a 1" spacer that will go under the spring perch to raise the spring by that amount. Thoughts anyone?
 

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Richard Jemison
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Any rear end modification for a race car involves removing the trunion entirely. The upper link (which has to be adjustable to set and maintain, should at ride height have the pickup on the chassis below the diff housing by about two inches to control dive under braking and squat under acceleration.
The mount is commonly done on the chassis reinforced to the roll cage.
Using a ctoss tube where the trunion mounted isn`t at the correct height and too heavy.

The horizontal links (solid rod ends) should not have preload but adjusted so the pivot is vertical when the axle is centered.
 
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