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Discussion Starter #1
What are your thoughs on drilling a hole throught the oil pump pully large enough to fit a 10 mm socket into to remove the waterpump bolt behind the oil pump pully. I have all the bolts off teh timing belt has 17K on it so I would perfer to leave it alone...
My thoughts
Balance problems from hole?
Shavings from drilling hole damange other stuff?
 

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I think you could control for the shavings using a shop vac and/or compressed air, and were vigilant with the clean up. I drilled out and reparied the thermostat bolt holes last year and cleaned up afterwards.

I can't speak to the issue of the affect of a hole drilled in the oil pump pulley. My questions would be:

Would it weaken the pulley?
Would there be ballance issues?

I understand not wanting to diddle with the timing belt, but is it worth it?

Any thoughts, Gurus?
 

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I would set up engine at TDC and check cams with template and then hold aux pulley with correct tool in holding holes and loosen bolt, loosen tensioner and remove aux pulley. Then get on with water pump change and then reset timing belt.

What are your odds that you will drill hole in correct position first time to line up with water pump bolt?

I would also drain engine block of coolant to prevent getting any on timing belt by removing 7/8" hex socket size drain plugs in sides of block.
 

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What are your thoughs on drilling a hole throught the oil pump pully large enough to fit a 10 mm socket into to remove the waterpump bolt behind the oil pump pully. I have all the bolts off teh timing belt has 17K on it so I would perfer to leave it alone...
My thoughts
Balance problems from hole?
Shavings from drilling hole damange other stuff?
I think it is a waste of time and could slightly throw the balance off but lighten too;). Unless you counter it and maybe you will get lucky and line up??
It takes 2 seconds to pull the belt and that pulley to have access to that bolt. I think it makes an easier install with it off anyway!
If your changing out pumps that much that you need an access hole then you may be doing it wrong. The length of time a water pump lasts should be the same time you replace the timing belt and tensioner anyway usually every other timing belt or longer.

Jason
 

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I agree. If you change the belt, tensioner and water pump your at a good starting place for setting up a change program. Mine is: belt and tensioner every 30,000 miles and water pump every other belt change.
 

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I think you should just remove the belt. Like Steve said, make sure the engine is at TDC and it would be beneficial to use the timing belt/mark template.
 

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There isn't any water pump bolts behind aux pulley on 164 12v V6. Bolt is behind tensioner pulley so you pretty much have to take off Timing Belt to get water pump off.
 

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There isn't any water pump bolts behind aux pulley on 164 12v V6. Bolt is behind tensioner pulley so you pretty much have to take off Timing Belt to get water pump off.
Duh, good eye. With so many times of doing this I nor anyone else realized, wait a second there is no bolt under the pulley. LOL!

Haha. Good eye steve
J
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes. Removed the pulley and Found that out...but there is no way to take off the pump without removing the alt bracket or crank pully which is easier? I have all the pbolts off the pump and with the oil pump pulley off I still cant get it out?
 

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Yes. Removed the pulley and Found that out...but there is no way to take off the pump without removing the alt bracket or crank pully which is easier? I have all the pbolts off the pump and with the oil pump pulley off I still cant get it out?
Did you get bolt out behind tensioner pulley so pump moves? If you still can't get it out with timing belt off and aux pulley removed remove tensioner.

Another problem you may have is type of pump you have. If it has a large flat spot in front below pulley/shaft with a steel "freeze" plug in it at a 45 degree angle that freeze plug area hits crank pulley.

I just changed one of those kind but I had alternator and bracket OFF ENGINE SO I GOT IT off without removing crank pulley. Think you are right I had to slide it forward into area where alternator bracket is to get it to clear crank pulley.

I wonder if with tensioner off you can slide it rearwards enough to roll it outward to clear crank pulley?
 

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Yes. Removed the pulley and Found that out...but there is no way to take off the pump without removing the alt bracket or crank pully which is easier? I have all the pbolts off the pump and with the oil pump pulley off I still cant get it out?
I have never removed the Alternator bracket nor the Crank pulley (on some occasions). You really need to remove the tensioner and belt to really be able to get to it. It will be very difficult to get back in if you do get it out this way.
You can do kind of what steve says to get it out but again getting back in is not going to happen., especially with the gasket and sealant on pump, gasket and block. Your going to get sealant all over or not be able to line it up right.
It is not that much more work. Might as well replace the belt/tensioner if needed, then they will both be at the same intervals.
Just remove belt and tensioner, and oil pump pulley. Easy from there.
J
 

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Timing belt tensioner or water pump/ac crank?
I removed tensioner, aux pulley and already had alternator and bracket off, but left crank pulley on.

Does your new replacement pump have that freeze plug bulge on front if not should be easier to install.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I did not have to take the alt. bracket completly off, I just loosened the adjusting bolts and the water pump cleared. I had the oil pump pulley off at the time. It was hard to determine if I really need the pupply of to clear the water pump. As a note this WP was the one with a freeze plug and 45 degreee angle above the crank pulley...
 
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