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My '74 Spider is loosing fluid rapidly from the radiator. On closer inspection and talking to my mechanic, it appears the water is coming from the bottom of the water pump and this is not uncommon for an old pump. I am being quoted approx. $500 to fix. I saw on IAP that I can get the pump for $82.00 . My guestions are:

1) What else would I need to buy?
2) Can a semi inclined, but untrained person repair this themselves without destroying the car?
3)If so, is there a decent guide to assist? Special tools? ...

Greg
'74 Spider
 

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There are many threads on here to help you along. I'd ask myself if I would pay myself $418 to do it myself...They can be a headache, but $418 isn't exactly pocket change. New belts and hoses would be nice while you are there. You could easily have the whole thing done within a day. No special tools required.
 

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Greg,

Assume your mechanic wants to charge full Alfa price for the pump, and just guessing at 4 hours time at $100 per hour, the price quoted is not unreasonable. Replacing the pump yourself is not impossible; there are several studs that seem to prevent pump removal and some people remove the crankshaft pulley to facilitate removal. However, by "double nutting" the studs in question to remove them, the pump can then be removed without removing the crankshaft pulley. Removing the fan shroud and radiator is necessary, but the job isn't too technical. Use the search function, and you should find lots of discussion regarding water pump replacement.

Goos luck...

My '74 Spider is loosing fluid rapidly from the radiator. On closer inspection and talking to my mechanic, it appears the water is coming from the bottom of the water pump and this is not uncommon for an old pump. I am being quoted approx. $500 to fix. I saw on IAP that I can get the pump for $82.00 . My guestions are:

1) What else would I need to buy?
2) Can a semi inclined, but untrained person repair this themselves without destroying the car?
3)If so, is there a decent guide to assist? Special tools? ...

Greg
'74 Spider
 

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Greg, Just went thru the same thing with my 85 a couple of weeks ago. There may be a few differences but I'm guessing it should be about the same job. Except for mining for bolts(buried under 3/8" of sludge cake) and the 2 bottom studs you will need to double nut to remove stud to allow clearance for removal from behind lower pulley it is mostly straight forward. What I removed and/or serviced is as follows, Removed hood so as to degrease and pressure wash front of engine. Removed radiator and sent out to be rodded out 95.00 Purchased new upper, lower, and bypass hoses. Purchased new fan belt water pump and thermostat assy. For me installing the water pump on a clean surface made for an easier and nicer looking job. Actual time once everything arrived and picked up was about 3 hrs. I think I could do the next one faster so if inclined go for it, if you run into any trouble these guys on this site are an unlimited wealth of knowledge and great to help. One last note before I unhooked the hoses after draining the coolant I refilled with water and Radiatorflush then ran the car till the termostat opened then drained again . Once everything is installed and you are ready to refill coolant remove the 8mm plug from top of water pump and start filling( engine off) once coolant seeps out replace plug, next crack open plug at top of throttle body it is inline of one of your heater hoses now my problem is I never could get anything out of this one it would just pour back out the radiator because the radiator sits lower. Back in the 90's we would have to jack up the 300z's as high in the front so to burp the air from them after collision damage and the same worked with the spider. Make sure heater valve is open and just for sanity sake if you have a big cooking thermometer insert in top of radiator once you have it running and thermostat open. Mine gauge reads about 220 most of the time but is 30 to 40 degrees different from my turkey fryer thermometer Good Luck
 
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