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Hello all. The other day I noticed my water pump housing was wet. I had been hunting for the airleak in my cooling system and now with the gasket showing some wetness I was happy that I may have located the leak. I cracked out my 10mm socket and thought I would give the bolts a small tighten. I made it to the last one and snap, the engine stud broken. Now I need to remove the water pump housing and tap out the stud and change the gasket. I unscrewed all the nuts but 2 run right up against the crank pulley. Is there a trick on removing these last 2 nuts and replacing the gasket? Thank you in advance. Alex
 

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I had a similar problem, but in my case, there were no signs of "wetness" on the outside. The Water Pump Bearings had failed, leading to the Seals failing and finally the coolant getting into the Engine Oil system. I currently have the complete engine out. It was the only way for me to see which of the parts had in fact failed. I know you may not want to pull the engine out, but I must say, it is not such a big job. To remove the last 2 nuts, you really beed to remove the Front Main Pulley / Harmonic Balancer. It would be very difficult to remove the Crankshaft Nut, as it needs a lot of leverage, and you have to Lock the Flywheel. I feel your pain, but that is the best I can tell you. Also that you should remove the Front Engine Cover which is locked in place by the 2 Studs in the Cylinder Heads. If the Seal in the Front Cover is leaking, it is a indication that the Water Pump Bearings are on the way out, and with it all the Seals as well. Unfortunately, there is no short cut here that I know of.
 

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Agree! In addition will suggest to change the 2100.05104 four studs on TAV.2 by regular bolts once and if you remove the engine. The wobble analysis is something recommended too. The reinforcement and rear bearing change, something to be considered if the engine is out.
 

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Hi Alex,

I had been hunting for the airleak in my cooling system and now with the gasket showing some wetness I was happy that I may have located the leak. Alex
Can you explain why or how you were "hunting for the air leak" in your cooling system? Was air pressure building up in this system and pushing coolant out of the overflow into your catch reservoir?

With the one stud broken off, is the coolant leaking out any worse than before?

Changing the water pump is a really big job on a Montreal; Jay it is not at all like changing a 4 cylinder water pump. It can be done with the engine 'in the car' but it is not easy. Tom S. did this job with his engine still in the Montreal. He drilled a special plate with about 20 holes in specific locations to use with a slide hammer type puller. I think the job took something like 10-15 hours and for some unknown reason, things did not go well with the repair, despite all new gaskets, bearings and seals.

Mark
 

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Changing the water pump is a really big job on a Montreal; Jay it is not at all like changing a 4 cylinder water pump.
I didn't pick up that this thread is in the Montreal section - just saw it in the "New Posts" section. Reply deleted. My error!
 
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