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Discussion Starter #1
Dear All, I am slowly fixing all the various problems left to me by the people who tried to rebuild the car. Leaks in the boot where down to the lights being badly fitted and now I'm dealing with the doors. I initially found they hadn't put back the scuttle pipe! Now there is a pretty large leak into the passenger footwell. I made my own door cards and then cover the bottom with gaffer tape to isolate water coming from inside the door/window.

The water seems to be coming in from the top of the door but then going into the car rather than down the gap between door and body. Also the seal is crunched up. I am thinking that a rubber flap at the top of the door where the roof drain comes in could work. Anyone tried this or other solutions?

Thanks.

View attachment 1610427 View attachment 1610427
 

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Doors need to have a plastic sheet on the inside of the trim panel, glued all the way around (they use s black putty type stuff do can be pealed off). There are openings at the bottom of the inner door frame for the water to get back into the door and then out the bottom openings.

Also check for rust holes in your scuttle area.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Doors need to have a plastic sheet on the inside of the trim panel, glued all the way around (they use s black putty type stuff do can be pealed off). There are openings at the bottom of the inner door frame for the water to get back into the door and then out the bottom openings.

Also check for rust holes in your scuttle area.
Pete
I tried to isolate one problem area at a time, so at the moment the whole bottom of the door is sealed with duct tape. I will take your advice and apply this once I have found where this leak is coming from. However the two rain seals are missing which is probably a good place to start.

Thanks,

Andrew.
 

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Picking up on PSK’s post, you need to see or imagine what the adhesive fixture ‘trail’ for the plastic sheeting around the inner skin actually looks like, from one that has been done properly. It isn’t just a matter of sealing along the bottom of the doors, with duct tape or anything else.
Any water (and there will always be some) which passes the window felts, will hit the plastic through the inner door panel cutouts (because of the fall angle from the top of the doors) and flow downwards on the plastic to wherever it can get out.
If you look closely, you will see that there are drain points on the depressed portions of the door inner skins that go back INTO the door so that the water then drips out the drain holes in the very bottom of the doors. It is wrong to let it flow down to the very bottom of the plastic/inner skins, near the door seals, because it will get out, and can then flow inwards and onto your floors.
The door seals aren’t there to guard against that.
What you need to do is run your bead of adhesive on the flats of the inner skin so that those drain holes become the lowest points. You have to zig-zag up/down along the doorskin flats, dipping near those drain points, to ensure this.
You also need a proper adhesive which will seal the plastic to the door. Duct tape won’t do it properly.
My tube of adhesive is a thousand km from me at the moment, but it’s a tacky, silicone-like but re-sealable product I bought from a bodyworks shop (they use it all the time on cars like ours) coz you will ALWAYS have to remove the plastic again for other jobs.
Sorry I don’t have a picture to help, but I’m sure if you stare at it long enough you’ll see where the adhesive should be applied to ensure the water drains to those points.
If you seal the plastic around every hole in the inner skin, that probably wouldn’t be overkill.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Picking up on PSK’s post, you need to see or imagine what the adhesive fixture ‘trail’ for the plastic sheeting around the inner skin actually looks like, from one that has been done properly. It isn’t just a matter of sealing along the bottom of the doors, with duct tape or anything else.
Thank you Ranz, I would very much appreciate some pictures.

The previous bodyshop which messed up the car has put a sheet but it is very haphazard and there is a ton of adhesive (which I need to remove). I use the duct tape to isolate the drip, its a temporary measure. Once the door drip seals arrive, and if they solve the issue I will then deal with the inside of the door.

I am actually considering removing the door so I can work at it on the bench indoors, at that stage refresh all seals as well and install the sound proofing. Is that overkill?

Thanks,

Andrew.
 

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Well, I’m still 1000km from my car, so I can’t help with pictures. There’s no substitute for looking...take the door cards off.
Did you see Scalino 1300s pic of the upper door channel? That also needs to be correctly sealed, again to ensure water drains into, and then out of, the doors, as does the plastic on the inside off the door skin, as I described.
Removing the door? Well, that does seem like overkill to fix a drip problem, as it’s definitely no fun putting the door back EXACTLY where it came off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I’m still 1000km from my car, so I can’t help with pictures. There’s no substitute for looking...take the door cards off.
Did you see Scalino 1300s pic of the upper door channel? That also needs to be correctly sealed, again to ensure water drains into, and then out of, the doors, as does the plastic on the inside off the door skin, as I described.
The sheeting needs to be completely remade, the body shop did a proper botch job. I've ordered some 8mm butyl rope and heavy duty sheeting. The rain seals have arrived and I installed them. Is it worth putting some butyl under those seals as well or just leave them fitted as is?

Removing the door? Well, that does seem like overkill to fix a drip problem, as it’s definitely no fun putting the door back EXACTLY where it came off.
I understand, but I find it very difficult to deal with the door attached to the car. I will try with it still hanging, good advice as I am on my own.

Thanks,

Andrew.
 

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Top seals: I think I may have used a little sealant on mine, tho there was no evidence of any when I removed them. It may not be needed if they fit well.
Fit them, pour a little water near them and see where it goes....if it all goes thru the flutes into the door, you’re ok. If some goes under, add a little sealant.
1611080
 

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BTW: If you do remove the door, unbolt the hinges where they bolt to the door, NOT where they bolt to the shell. Then when you reinstall the door it will go back in exactly the same place, as there is no adjustment on the door side of the door hinges.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #14
BTW: If you do remove the door, unbolt the hinges where they bolt to the door, NOT where they bolt to the shell. Then when you reinstall the door it will go back in exactly the same place, as there is no adjustment on the door side of the door hinges.
Pete
That is a TOP tip, thank you very much! Unbolting the body side looks so much easier but will definitely not do that.

Andrew.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Top seals: I think I may have used a little sealant on mine, tho there was no evidence of any when I removed them. It may not be needed if they fit well.
Fit them, pour a little water near them and see where it goes....if it all goes thru the flutes into the door, you’re ok. If some goes under, add a little sealant.
All the plastic liners need to come out so I will do that. The butyl rope arrived today but I have to finish the Integrale's calipers first!

Cheers.

Andrew.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Top seals: I think I may have used a little sealant on mine, tho there was no evidence of any when I removed them. It may not be needed if they fit well.
Fit them, pour a little water near them and see where it goes....if it all goes thru the flutes into the door, you’re ok. If some goes under, add a little sealant.
Glad to say that on the driver side the addition of the seal on its own has cured the problem completely. Almost a week outside in modest rain and there is no sign of water inside. Passenger side is different but the amount of water was significantly less.

Worth noting that I have completely removed the leaks into the boot by taking off the lights and covering the area with duct tape (to test), which means the lights are the culprit not the seal. I have cleaned them nicely, removed the reflectors (rear needed rust converter after wire brush) and sealed a couple of little cracks.

On the passenger side I have now applied some duct tape on the body work to cover the door area. If the water stops I know to add some sealant under the rain seal.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Top seals: I think I may have used a little sealant on mine, tho there was no evidence of any when I removed them. It may not be needed if they fit well.
Fit them, pour a little water near them and see where it goes....if it all goes thru the flutes into the door, you’re ok. If some goes under, add a little sealant.
Unfortunately also with the butyl sealant water still gets into the footwell. The bottom of the door seal looks pinched and wet which isn't much help either. I refitted it to make sure it was all ok but at the bottom where it transitions from the door frame channel to the step it looks wrong. Any suggestions on what to do next? Thanks.

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I would say it kinks because there is exces seal in the corner. You‘ll find that if you put a door seal in you’ll have a bit too much left on the last part, installing it backwards say 20cm at a time remedies this. I would try the same approach to see if you can ‘remove’ seal from the corner to some other place, say take out 40cm and put it back 20cm at a time.
 

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So you’ve received your butyl sealant...
Have you redone the door plastic, sealing each aperture and directing flow back inside the door, as discussed earlier?
Can you trace the water trail all the way to the top? Perhaps some talc will help do this, plus taking off the door card and watching what is actually happening.
Were these photos a result of your testing, pouring lots of water in there from the top?
It’s a little hard to see from your picture (even with the close up); but water appears to have made it to the inner edge of the seal, some inches up from the bottom. If that’s the case, the problem isn’t the kink at the bottom corner: you have water running/falling past that edge to the inside from higher up.
That top channel AND the plastic are meant to keep water inside the door, well away from even the outer side of the door seal.
Taking the kink out of the seal might help reduce the current drainage to the inside, but the water shouldn’t get that far inboard in the first place, and a new top seal alone won’t achieve that.
Good luck.
 

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Pls note, tho I said ‘sealing each (door) aperture’, the critical bit is to let water flow down the inside of the door plastic, and exit INTO the door where drain-back openings exist at the bottoms of the lower openings.
 
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