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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #1
I've read all I can find on the BB regarding the VVT (which won't come up in a search using only "VVT"). I get how it works, but am still stumped.

Impedance checked the throttle position switch - 18-2 closed at idle and 18-3 closed at full throttle.

Put 12V directly to the VVT solenoid, and it snaps smartly indicating it works.

Other than that, it never kicks in. Turning on the ignition switch and pulling the throttle up to full does not trigger it, either engine cold or hot.

I've read the full paper from Hiperformance on the L-jet.

Anyone got a good place to start hunting for the failure mode? Sure is costing me lots of HP.

Thanks!
 

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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #3
Hello Jim,

It appears OK. Red with continuous metal band. I plan to change it tomorrow just in case, but it looked perfect when I eye-balled it.
 

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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #4
Fuse is OK. Just no VVT solenoid response although the TPS is OK. Shorting pins 3 and 18 on the harness with the key on doesn't elicit a response either. 12V directly to the solenoid and it clicks the cam adjuster pin very nicely.

Grrr. This is out of my area of experience.

Don
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
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16,232 Posts
A few more things to check.
Pull apart the three wire VVT harness connector. On the chassis side of the connector, check the yellow wire for continuity to the TPS. Check that the black wire has continuity to ground. Turn on the ignition and check the green/black wire for battery voltage.
If all is okay, then the VVT circuit board has burned out.
 

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I assume you tried the "normal" way of testing the VVT. that is: "With the key in the ignition (on) but the engine OFF you pull the throttle linkage while looking directly into the VVT to see, and hear the solenoid." if you get Nothing here and the TPS is good then it's either the fuse or an open in the line. I assume this because you triggered the solenoid directly from its pins. Then the open is: the connection to the TPS or the fuse connectors or the connection to the TPS. get an ohm meter and start checking continuity.
 

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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #7
Hello Wopjob,

In my first post I noted having done the test you describe.


Jim

3 wire VVT harness? Mine has only two pins, and the rest is plastic. What am I missing? I'll pull the VVT connector tomorrow and look for the 3 wires you describe, but there are only 2 pins on my VVT and two pin receptacles on the connector.
 

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1966-2013
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Correct, there are two terminals in the housing plug where it connects to the VVT solinoid, but there are three wires that service that plug on the car side of it. 3 wires in, 2 contacts out.
An internal PCB in the solinoid plug does the conversion from three wires to two terminals.

Papajam is suggesting checking the wires on the terminal ends where the VVT whip connects to the cars harness on the car harness side.
 

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I had the same issue with mine. It turned out to be the connectors in the wiring harness plug were loose so there was the correct voltage to the plug with throttle actuation and movement of the VVT with direct 12v application but nothing with the plug connected. Check as papajam has instructed and that will tell if the board is bad but if o.k. try to clean and tighten the connectors themselves it worked for me.
 

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Push hard and live
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Discussion Starter #10
Hot girlfriend drove the car to work today, so can't check till she gets home. Good thing she's not bothered by missing horsepower. On many levels.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I assumed he wanted pictures of the car, but then again...

I popped off the VVT lead/connector and the little black lid that appeared as though it had been pried off before. There was some chunky black rubber inside that was breaking up. When I flipped off a piece, the black wire came neatly out of the circuit board hole that it was intended to be in. Whether my gentle flicking knocked it loose or whether it was already loose and just held in place by the black stuff, I don't know. I'm guessing the latter as I put no force on it, and solder should have resisted any small amount of bumping one does with a finger nail.

Looking for replacement VVT connector cable. Drilling out the rivets and repairing this one is an option, but not one that is likely to be a relaxing or satisfactory job.

We'll see if a replacement can be found, and if it fixes the problem. Thanks to the BB!
 
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