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Cinching them down required a certain amount of sensitivity and I may just not have been as aggressive as I needed to.
That makes sense. My experience with brake lines - even with factory-made flares - is that you need to tighten them a little like head nuts: torque them down, come back the next day after the flare has flowed a bit, and torque them again. Sometimes it takes me a few rounds of tightening and waiting to get them to seal.

Obviously Toyota doesn't use my technique on their production line, so I don't know if this makes any sense; maybe just tightening them more the first time would work as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #402
Yeah, the tool I used didn’t make a flare that was exactly like the factory line. I think I needed to tighten the fitting enough to get it to seal against the bottom of the bore. The original Alfa lines were steel but we could not get a good flare on the steel with the tool. New copper is much easier to get good results with.

That makes sense. My experience with brake lines - even with factory-made flares - is that you need to tighten them a little like head nuts: torque them down, come back the next day after the flare has flowed a bit, and torque them again. Sometimes it takes me a few rounds of tightening and waiting to get them to seal.

Obviously Toyota doesn't use my technique on their production line, so I don't know if this makes any sense, or if just tightening them more the first time would work as well.
-tj
 

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This is great news.

Copper pipe?, copper alloy I hope as copper is not suitable for a brake line.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #405

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Copper nickel is what it probably is. Plain copper work hardens ...
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #407
It's been some time since I've posted about Renzo. We had a nice time in Carmel for Car Week and enjoyed showing her on the lawn at Concorso Italiano.

My brake issue has returned. I will likely have to pursue buying and installing the later style master cylinder. I haven't had much energy to worry about it as since my return from Carmel I went to visit my 1900C SS which will be ready to pick up in the next few weeks and so I've been focusing on getting ready for that happy reunion.

Ciao!

-tj in the Cruz Mtns
 

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Discussion Starter #408
As I mentioned in my last post, Renzo's brakes started acting up again. I figured I was still fighting air bubbles. I want to get a few things tidied up because the 1900 is supposed to come home next week and I won't have room or time in the shop to work on them once that happens, so today she went up on jackstands. I'm not sure if I'm happy or pissed that the **** master cylinder is leaking internally. Brake fluid is leaking through the piston/seal/bore and dripping out the rubber boot, so that's why the brake pedal was doing its old tricks again.

Thankfully I have the previous MC and since I am pretty sure the root cause was a loose fitting I reinstalled it.

While I'm under the car I've removed the drive shaft to replace the guibo, and pulled the output flange so I can replace the rear flange oil seal which was leaking transmission oil.

I hope to have her all buttoned up tomorrow and will report back on whether or not I was successful.

-tj in the Cruz Mtns
 

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So when are you opening up an Alfa only workshop :grin2::wink2: Brakes a speciality.
 

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Discussion Starter #410
As soon as they figure out how to use bourbon for hydraulic fluid. Man I hate Dot 4 brake fluid like poison. I'd rather bathe in 90W gear oil than have to deal with brake fluid. It's just nasty.

So when are you opening up an Alfa only workshop :grin2::wink2: Brakes a speciality.

-tj
 

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Discussion Starter #411
Turns out that perhaps the 8th or 9th time is a charm.

Following the failure of one of the four brake master cylinders I bought I decided to take the opportunity to tackle a couple things I'd been wanting to take care of. I removed the failed MC, the driveshaft and the transmission output flange. I replaced the output flange seal, the guibo and replaced the MC with another new one I had in the shop that I had assumed was bad, before realizing I had a air leak in one of the fittings.

I put everything back together, bled the brakes, and with some cautious optimism I'll say "hallelujah!" The brake pedal is firm all the time (no pumping up) and the new guibo seems to have quelled the nasty vibration/resonance I'd been experiencing. I haven't driven her on the freeway yet but so far it seems much better. I know there are a couple different styles of guibos and the one that I removed was old, but apparently are known to be too stiff. It was the one with the pressed steel inserts rather than the cast aluminum ones. I sourced the replacement from Centerline.

In any event, but for a few minor items, still the seatbelts and a few other things, Renzo is running well and hopefully will take a back seat to the Super Sprint which is supposed to come home next week.

But for the threat of wildfires this is one of the most pleasant times of years for driving here in the Bay Area, so I'll get out and run 'er a little before the rains come.

Happy Weekend everyone!

-tj in the Cruz Mtn
 

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Firewall Grommets

Hi TJ,

I hope all is well with you and your GTV. I've looked through your entire thread again - some great pictures and amazingly helpful information is in there! The one thing I didn't see was pictures of your engine / engine bay - more specifically (at least in this case) is that I can't seem to figure out what all the firewall grommets look like. Specifically, in the picture I've provided (I've circled the firewall hole in question - in yellow), I'm fairly sure this smaller hole is for long, heater-water line that ultimately routes to the water pump (with an intermediate tee into the rear of the intake manifold) - is this true? Secondly, what does this grommet look like and do you know where to get one of them? I have the upper, heater hose firewall grommet (which is a much bigger hole) - I just can't seem to visualize the lower, smaller hole's grommet.

Thanks in advance!

Chuck

P.S. Any engine bay pictures would be much appreciated as well!
 

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Discussion Starter #414
Chuck,

Apologies for not responding earlier. I didn't see this post until today. ItalCarroz, thank you for stepping in. He's correct in that it's for the return heater hose which has a crook in it. The grommet should be readily available.

-tj
 

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Discussion Starter #415
I've been largely quiet in this corner of the forum as of late. Renzo has been out for a few drives this winter as it's been a rather dry one here in the Bay Area. I got a new Miller Multimatic welder (Mig, Tig, Stick) which I'm using to fabricate an engine test stand for my 1900, and now that the car is back in my shop it's been consuming most of my time.

I did use said welder to weld i some seat belt mounts on the inner rockers so I have functioning seat belts, which is nice, but other than that I've not had much need to tinker on her.

A while back I began to notice the smell of raw fuel in the ****pit and upon removing the trunk upholstery noticed fuel around the fuel tank sender unit. Believing the gasket must have failed I removed it, but did not see any signs of leakage there. I then turned my sights on the fuel delivery hose, and tightened the hose clamp at the sender unit/fuel pipe. After a quick test drive I popped the trunk lid open and again noticed fuel around the sender unit and then saw that fuel was bubbling out of the fuel hose through the clamp.

I don't understand how this could be happening as it's not under pressure, and I'm running the original mechanical fuel pump.

Anyone got any bright ideas?

TJ
 

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Old/cracked/overtightened/damaged hose Is simplest explanation, or squashed-out-of-round or cruddy pipe.
It‘s a short piece, put some new hose on. Clean up the metal pipe with some steel wool while you’re at it. Add a second hose clamp or move it to nice, rounder pipe section, if it looks a bit squished.
 

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Discussion Starter #417
I thought you might enjoy seeing/hearing Renzo run.


-tj
 

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Discussion Starter #420
That's definitely a thing. The radio is essentially useless. It's somewhat functional as it does have a USB input that kinda sorta works. The tuner works but I don't have the desire to blight the body with an antenna so it's mostly there to look period appropriate and fill the hole in the dash. Original blanking plates for Veloces are very hard to find.

After listening, I have absolutely no idea of why you would have a radio.

all the best
Chuck
-tj
 
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