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Discussion Starter #261
Looking underneath my 71' you see these safety belt reinforcement plates. I believe for adding rear passenger safety belts, but if I was racing her (nope, never going to happen) I'd remove the passenger side one and relocate it on the drivers side for the second shoulder belt to attach too. The other shoulder belt can probably connect to the one that Alfa installed ... but it might need to move in a little?

These attachment points are designed so that the safety belt goes through the rear seat where the base and the backrest meet, so no holes in the rear seats are required. Most cars do the same, for rear seats anyway.
Pete
Thanks for all the photos and clarification Pete!

Sadly Renzo does not have these attachments.

-tj in the Cruz Mtns
 

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La Strega,
No rattles that I’ve ever noticed. This is a well finished, tight unit. But that doesn’t mean it won’t move, or make noise. There no radio, and the sweet engine/exhaust sounds are all I hear. I should be at the car tomorrow and I’ll do a wiggle check for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #264
Apologies for highjacking this conversation, but where can I find an early flat fiberglass dash with no glovebox/head unit cut out? Alfaholics has a fiberglass dash, but it has the GTA style open glovebox. I'm searching for a totally plain unit like the one in this photo.
Apology accepted but not necessary. I’m not sure what you mean by “plain unit.” Do you mean an OE style dash? They’re available but expensive. There’s one in Europe for about $3000 if memory serves, although I don’t remember where I saw it. It might be on the FB 105 Collective page.

Ciao!
-tj in the Cruz Mtns
 

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Apology accepted but not necessary. I’m not sure what you mean by “plain unit.” Do you mean an OE style dash? They’re available but expensive. There’s one in Europe for about $3000 if memory serves, although I don’t remember where I saw it. It might be on the FB 105 Collective page.

Ciao!
-tj in the Cruz Mtns
Sorry, I should have been more clear. The photo above that Psk posted shows a (I presume) fiberglass dashboard that doesn't have a glovebox or a radio cutout. I believe it might be this Alfaholics "Pre-Preg" style GTA dashboard.

https://www.alfaholics.com/race-parts/105-series/body-glass-cages/alfaholics-glass-fibre-dashboard-stepfront-pre-preg/
 

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I went by your car a few times at Alameda and didn’t see you. No surprise with as many cars out on the field as there were to see. Your car looks great, and the passenger door fit looked pretty darn good. If it stands a bit proud of the rear quarter panel, it’s not by much, and maybe an adjustment to the door jamb latch might help if you’re not having to slam the door shut.
 

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Discussion Starter #267
Ken,

I'm sorry I missed you! Regarding the door alignment, two of the three 1xx cars that drove up with me have the same symptom. It's curious because the top of the door aligns properly, but the bottom doesn't. I don't know how the striker plate adjustment would fix that but I suppose it's possible. I'll play around with it a bit.

I went by your car a few times at Alameda and didn’t see you. No surprise with as many cars out on the field as there were to see. Your car looks great, and the passenger door fit looked pretty darn good. If it stands a bit proud of the rear quarter panel, it’s not by much, and maybe an adjustment to the door jamb latch might help if you’re not having to slam the door shut.
Regards,
TJ
 

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Sorry, I should have been more clear. The photo above that Psk posted shows a (I presume) fiberglass dashboard that doesn't have a glovebox or a radio cutout. I believe it might be this Alfaholics "Pre-Preg" style GTA dashboard.

https://www.alfaholics.com/race-parts/105-series/body-glass-cages/alfaholics-glass-fibre-dashboard-stepfront-pre-preg/
Hi talk to Bob Wright at Alfapanels. He makes both the 1750 and early stepnose dashes in GRP. They're even textured as per the original too.
Normally he would make it with the glovebox, but pretty sure he could make you one without. I've had one of his 1750 GRP dashes before and was very pleased with it

Dashes

Steve
 

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Regarding the door alignment... It's curious because the top of the door aligns properly, but the bottom doesn't. I don't know how the striker plate adjustment would fix that but I suppose it's possible.
IMO, the top door alignment is less important than parallel vertical door gaps and the door panel fitting flush/even with the rear fender panel. If the door is sticking out at the rear, or more commonly sticking out at the lower rear corner, adjustments are required. If the door is uneven at the top (usually with the top rear of the door line slightly higher than the rear fender line), but the door closes well, call it a day and be happy with it.

The striker plate can be tilted/moved slightly inboard. So if the rear of the door sticks out a bit and you still have some compression left in the door seal, you can adjust the striker plate to hold the door closer inboard. Make sense? Feel free to PM me if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #270
This is now the third time I've responded to this post and for some reason the previous two times my post has apparently failed.

When you say "adjustments are required" where do you mean? The front of the door is right, so the hinges can't be adjusted without effecting the front. The only remaining adjustment is the striker, right?

TJ


IMO, the top door alignment is less important than parallel vertical door gaps and the door panel fitting flush/even with the rear fender panel. If the door is sticking out at the rear, or more commonly sticking out at the lower rear corner, adjustments are required. If the door is uneven at the top (usually with the top rear of the door line slightly higher than the rear fender line), but the door closes well, call it a day and be happy with it.

The striker plate can be tilted/moved slightly inboard. So if the rear of the door sticks out a bit and you still have some compression left in the door seal, you can adjust the striker plate to hold the door closer inboard. Make sense? Feel free to PM me if you want.
 

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When you say "adjustments are required" where do you mean? The front of the door is right, so the hinges can't be adjusted without effecting the front. The only remaining adjustment is the striker, right?

TJ
Not necessarily. Keep in mind that a small adjustment at the front of th door will make a noticeable difference at the rear. I would start with the striker plate and see if making an adjustment helps pull the door in a bit at the rear. I would also consider removing the B post seal along the rear edge of the door to see if that makes a difference, and removing the door seal to see how the door closes without it. Make one adjustment at a time. Or remove one element at a time all in an effort to narrow down the root cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #272
Thanks Ken. I will add this to the list of “to dos.”

-TJ

Not necessarily. Keep in mind that a small adjustment at the front of th door will make a noticeable difference at the rear. I would start with the striker plate and see if making an adjustment helps pull the door in a bit at the rear. I would also consider removing the B post seal along the rear edge of the door to see if that makes a difference, and removing the door seal to see how the door closes without it. Make one adjustment at a time. Or remove one element at a time all in an effort to narrow down the root cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #273
On another note, I stupidly forgot to install sound deadener on my hoot and trunk lid prior to painting. Has anyone found a good replacement for the factory insulation? I don’t want to use anything that is not paintable.

- tj in the Cruz Mtns
 

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On another note, I stupidly forgot to install sound deadener on my hoot and trunk lid prior to painting. Has anyone found a good replacement for the factory insulation? I don’t want to use anything that is not paintable.
Not really. The original stuff has a texture like corkboard and it's tough to keep it adhered to the underside of the hood when subjected to engine heat.

Must admit that I scraped off my stock sound deadener (which had mostly de-adhered) and replaced it with black, textured truck bed liner from a rattle can. Doesn't look original, probably doesn't insulate heat / damp vibration like the stock material, but it does stay adhered and looks tidy.
 

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Discussion Starter #275
Last weekend I drove Renzo to the final Canepa Cars and Coffee of the year meeting fellow BBer Kurtd along the way. Afterward we had a nice spirited drive through the Santa Cruz Mountains on our way to visit our friend Matt at his shop. Matt's got a 2 post lift which allowed me to get under my car with it running and in gear to try to determine the cause of a noise which I often hear while driving. I'm fairly certain that it's the center driveshaft bearing, which is frustrating because I had my entire driveshaft rebuilt, including that center bearing. I also just returned an extra bearing that I had, which means I need to re-order one, and then take the driveshaft out for inspection.

I've always felt that the mixture might not be completely right so I checked the carbs (40DCOE27) and learned that the venturis are 30, while the main jets were 135 (slightly richer than stock), with 180 air correction jets and F8 idle jets.

I replaced the mains and idle jets and she does seem to run a little more crisply, but I haven't taken her for a real drive yet so we'll see.

Other than that I'm just tinkering with some minor items and enjoying driving her.

Ciao!
-tj in the Cruz Mtns
 

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Discussion Starter #276 (Edited)
I had a bit of drama with Renzo the other day. I'd just returned from Tom Sahines's place where we dialed in jetting and sync'd the carbs. She was running like a champ but for the front end shimmy that I had convinced myself was a poorly balanced tire. In my gut I felt like something was wrong. ALWAYS trust your guy my friends.

I was on 280 going about 65MPH and trying not to get eaten alive by soccer moms in minivans and Prius's when the front tire chucked its tread. Thankfully the tire did not collapse and I was able to safely get off the freeway to a spot where I could install my spare. The bad news is that the tread hit the underside of the front fender, blowing the paint off.

IMG_0166 by tjveloce, on Flickr

IMG_0171 by tjveloce, on Flickr

IMG_0179 (1) by tjveloce, on Flickr

I'm not willing to trust the tires that are on the car and am curious if I might use the Michelin Xs which are on my 1900 wire wheels. The Michelins are new (at least they were 4 years ago when they were installed on my wheels, and have always been stored inside. Given that it will be at least three (maybe more) years before they'd see action on the 1900 I wonder if I could use them on the Giulia. They're 165/15s, so just a bit wider than the 155/15s that was the OE fitment. The other potential issue, perhaps a non-starter is that the Michelin Xs have tubes in them for the wire wheels and I don't know if they can be run without tubes. I assume you can't use tubes in the OE 105 steel wheels.

I know people play around with tire sizes on 105s, and in a perfect world I'd just get 4 new P3s, but with the Giulietta needing $$ on her engine, the cost of repairing the Giulia, and my monthly invoices on the 1900 my budget is stressed. If the Michelins would work for a while it would seem to make sense to use them rather than have them sitting in the storage space above my closet.

Thoughts? Opinions? I told ya sos?

Ciao!
-tj in the Cruz Mtns
 

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Wow! That hurts I run the Pirellis on mine and love them but they are new every couple of years..They specify to run tubes which I run in the original rims. Once, a long time ago, I ran 185/15 Michelin XAS with good results but they are a much harder compound and took some getting used to after the cinturato gumballs.
best of luck
Chuck
 

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Sorry to see the thrown tread and body damage, but glad it wasn’t worse. Safety always should come first, so if your budget is strapped, I’d put the keys away until you can get some fresh rubber. Or at a minimum, keep your driving off off the freeways and limit it to slow runs to the store on the local byways until you do.
 

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Sorry to see this happen to both you and Renzo : ( Go with the Michelin Xs and don't look back. Check with Longstone regarding the tubes.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #280
Thanks Joe. It could have been much worse. Is there a reason why you like the Michelins better than the Pirellis?

TJ

Sorry to see this happen to both you and Renzo : ( Go with the Michelin Xs and don't look back. Check with Longstone regarding the tubes.

Joe
 
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