Alfa Romeo Forums banner

141 - 160 of 160 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #141 (Edited)
What brand did you use?
I used SKF.

Outer Bearing 32303 J2 Made in Germany
Inner Bearing 30206 J2/Q Made in India

The ones I replaced were FAG.

Vin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,279 Posts
I'm wondering too if it is not something the alignment shop did?
they would have loosened the locknuts on the new upper control arms for instance (as well as the steering links) to adjust castor and tow in etc.......did they also tighten the lock nuts back up?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #144
I'm wondering too if it is not something the alignment shop did?
they would have loosened the locknuts on the new upper control arms for instance (as well as the steering links) to adjust castor and tow in etc.......did they also tighten the lock nuts back up?
I don't this so.

The vibration was there before the alignment.

Vin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,279 Posts
Ah ok that answers that one then!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #146
I am going to spend some time on the front wheel bearings and see if anything is there.

Thoughts?

Vin
 

·
Premium Member
86 Veloce
Joined
·
1,051 Posts
Firstly,

I want to thank everyone for their help. I am stumped on this one and need all the help I can get. So thank you again.

I just performed a little experiment that I hope will help.

I raised the back of the car and put on jack stands. Removed the wheels. Ran the car up to 4th gear and 3750 RPM where the trouble is. NO vibration.

I then put the wheels back on, car still up on jacks and did the same. NO vibration.

I think this tells me that the driveshaft is good. Does it also rule out the differential?

I have balanced and re-balanced and put several sets of tires on with no change (meaning that there is a vibration), so I think that tells me its not the tires.

I think the only things left:

Front Bearings I changed at the end of last season
Front or Rear suspension part (I replaced the front upper control arm, still vibration)
Rear Bearings I changed at the end of last season
Removed and replaced the differential friction disks, but I think my experiment rules out the differential?

What do you think?

Thank you in advance,

Vin
Jacking up the rear changes your driveshaft geometry so I think Ed has pointed you in the right direction. I too, have a curious vibration that I believe is in the drivetrain somewhere. I just downloaded an article on drivetrain geometry and it talks about symptoms under load, no load, decel, etc. and will pinpoint what angle is off. I am going to try shiming the center bushing to see it the symptoms change.
 

·
Premium Member
86 Veloce
Joined
·
1,051 Posts
Ski, this is good information but Vin has vibration in the steering wheel
He was commenting on jacking the car up looking for vibration. Changing the geometry of the driveline will change characteristics. Just commenting on what he was talking about.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #151 (Edited)
Update:

I decided to focus on the front wheel bearings.

When I removed the tire and the brake pads and spun the driver rotor, I could just faintly hear a thump thump thump.

When I pulled it all apart, this is what I found.

Driver Inner Bearing has a burn mark on it.
IMG_5581.JPG


Driver spindle has has burn marks but I think too far back for the bearing to sit.
IMG_5580.JPG


Passenger side ( I forgot and removed before I could do the spin test, ugh!)

Passenger Inner bearing looks clean
IMG_5589.JPG


Passenger spindle also has those burn marks way in the back.
IMG_5594.JPG


So, I am always open to learning, so do you think I installed these incorrectly somehow and that, especially the driver side, is the source? At least it is rotational and gives me some hope.

I have parts available to replace the bearings, but dont want to make the same mistake twice.

As a side note, this is the driver side washer. The bottom tab is missing, not seen at 12o'clock. It goes into the spindle. Does missing that little tab have an effect on anything?
IMG_5592.JPG

IMG_5596.JPG
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,727 Posts
I think the burn mark(s) you are talking about is where the seal runs.

Replace the bearings and seal, and let's see what the result is
Pete
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,695 Posts
You need to get the original style metal seals. The rubber ones you installed looked like they are either to thick or won't seat down all they way. The seal should be flush with the hub.

The marks on the spindle is were the bearing sits on the spindle. The seal rides on the bigger step behind were the marks are.

As I can see from your pictures your seals were letting a lot of grease out. The backing plates should be clean.

I can't tell you if the missing tab has anything to do with it. But you do need it. It keeps the washer from spinning. Thats why you see the grooves that have been craved in it.

In viewing the pictures from your wheel bearing thread. I like to see much more grease in the center of the hub. There should be just enough of a hole in the center to push the hub on with out pushing much grease out with the spindle.

As to the tightening of the nut I've have never done it the way the manual says. I've always done it by feel. But the one thing I've always done is tighten the nut up tight. Take a big hammer and hit the hub between each stub hard. This will completely seat the bearings. After hitting it tighen nut again. If it moves repeat the hammer procedure. If it doesn't move then loosen the nut and retighten it the final time as the book says. Like I said I've never done it that way. But I was thought by and old Alfa mechanic when I went to work on these cars and it can't really be explained telling it. It has to be shown by trail and error.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,727 Posts
Hammer versus bearings ... a no no, so I assume a gentle tap. Might be worth clarifying ;)

Pete
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,695 Posts
Your not hitting the bearings. Your hitting the the hub between the wheel studs with the nut tightened down. If the bearings won't take that. Then there not going to take the sideway forces put on them when driving the car.

I've installed hundreds upon hundreds of bearing installs this way over the last 30 plus years. Everything from Alfas to trailers. Never had a problem.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,727 Posts
I understand, but I worry that some our members will not have the mechanical understanding, and I can see them swinging away with a huge hammer bashing the heck out of their hub, which transfers that sharp force to the bearings. But the hammer should not be required if, the outer races of the bearings have been properly seated, and you do up the nut properly tight and then back off, as all instructions say, but it works for you ... so awesome.

Pete
 
141 - 160 of 160 Posts
Top