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Don't know why I can't rotate the last 2 pictures. Sorry. Just turn your head 180 degrees :)
Were they taken with your phone? If so, it is due to the problem this site has with posting phone pics upside down. I have discussed it with them several times and they don't seem to be willing to put in the effort to do something about it. They blame the phones. I think the site software guys should be able to work out a fix. I don't recall this being a problem in the past.
 

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I love those wheels. Are they the ESMs on eBay? Smallest size I've seen is 16x8, but if they made them in a 15x7 or 16x7, I'd be all over them!
 

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Discussion Starter #165 (Edited)
Well not a lot of in between updates, but heres some links to watch my first test drives.
I'll bring updates soon. I just wanted to get a quick drive in before it got too cold today.

May be a low fuel issue in the first video, it broke up when trying to accelerate.

2nd and 3rd seemed to be fine but I can't go too fast through my little neighborhood :)

Enjoy!



 

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Discussion Starter #166 (Edited)
Well cut to the chase update! I got a lot of stuff done. Since this last update in like November or something?

Got my new fuel system setup
Ran the new system and it worked great.
Ran the car for a couple weeks and it ran awesome
Then out of nowhere. Developed an "out of the blue" problem...

Anyway... start from the top.

New Bosch 044 pump, Volvo fuel filter, Fuelab adjustable fuel pressure regulator, 2L surge tank, Carter HVLP with a small pre filter from a 12gal fuel cell. All new lines, fittings, and even modified the fuel rail to be the way I wanted it to be.



If anyone wants an almost direct fit Adjustable FPR, I seen someone try it before so I went for it as well. That's guys thread is a couple years old I believe. Anyways. I can get part numbers for anyone interested as far as what fittings to get, the FPR itself, or any questions



Low clearance, but I ground the head of the plug off the front of mine to clear the timing belt just in case.







Started out welding up a frame for everything to sit on



Cut out an aluminum template to make everything sit nice



More pictures of the process. Welded the rectangle frame to the actual frame we made for the fuel cell to sit in, then welded it in the car as one piece. Undercoated the entire frame for durability. Undercoated the aluminum plate.







Surge tank, low pressure and high pressure pumps, fuel filter mounted



Fuel cell and everything mocked up



That's all I have time to up date for now!
 

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Discussion Starter #167
Got some time to do some more updating..

Made my own tank straps.





Everything pretty much in place.



Back to the regulator for sec... bought a 150 degree fitting for return line and it fits perfect also.



 

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maybe this already came up, if so, sorry - but where (i.e. what sanctioning body) can you run wout a steel or aluminum case for the plastic tank? how is this safer than even the factory tank?
 

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Interesting project. I run a car in endurance races.

For anyone choosing the Bosch 044 pump, when installed with the stock fuel pressure regulator it will boost the fuel pressure in the rail about 5 PSI due to its much higher volume. This rise in rail pressure allowed me to run a slightly modified 3 liter S motor with OEM 2.5 liter engine management - I'm definitely giving up some HP but it never burned a piston or has not damaged my motor- yet. I should have larger injectors and aftermarket engine management.

With an adjustable regulator you can choose your rail pressure. Also the Bosch 044 can support way more horsepower than any of these motors can make. I chose it because its available everywhere. A smaller pump would definitely suffice and draw less amperage. Sometimes in endurance racing you want to keep the amperage draw low so you can run powerful head lamps for night racing.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Please post part #s for you FPR and fittings. I was either too dumb or too lazy to figger it all out myself.
Haha it's okay. I was feeling lazy myself, but if I wanted to drive my car I had to get it figured out.

I decided to use fragola fittings because they have Short threads but I'm sure other brands make what fitting it is that we need for our v6's.

Here is the part number I used, bought from jegs, YOU NEED 2 of them. One for each side of the rail.



This is the bottom fitting for the regulator to have enough clearance to u-turn the return line up to through a good route. Again, don't have to use the brands I used but all the information is there.



You can use any of the nylon braided line and still remain to use your barb & clamp style if you wish. but again, I wanted everything to be the same and I also ran new steel fuel lines so I used different fittings



You can run the FPR with the logo facing out, but you will either have to grind down the plug or buy a new short one. I don't have very many pictures of that but you'll see what I mean. The vacuum reference port is also on the wrong side if you run the "fuelab" logo facing out , so you will have to re route the vacuum hose. If you decide to run the FPR backwards (logo in towards the intake runners) your vacuum port is perfect.

You will have to hook up a fuel pressure tester, set your pressure at first. I wouldn't recommend an inline gauge for daily use.

Regulator with all fittings installed.

Fuelab regulator #51502-1 (google it, cheapest place is amazon or eBay)
FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS.
Light oil for AN threads, thread sealant for pipe threads, use o rings, follow all instructions.



You will need a bottom fitting also.
That bottom fitting is a -6an to -6an so you can screw on your 150 degree fitting on the bottom for the return ( fitting on the bottom in pic above)
 

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Discussion Starter #172
maybe this already came up, if so, sorry - but where (i.e. what sanctioning body) can you run wout a steel or aluminum case for the plastic tank? how is this safer than even the factory tank?
The trunk isn't quite done right now but I haven't started any racing yet so I'm not too worried. Nothing is going to damage the fuel cell. Even with the factory tank in place it could do the same damage if the car flipped and bad accident 'hypothetically speaking for the worst.' The tank sits in a perfect channel with a thick rubber mat type thing so it doesnt ride plastic on metal.
 

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Thanks for the #s. I'm currently running a 1983 vintage FPR squished down to give me 43 psi. I guess "running" is a loose term as I haven't got the Megasquirt working yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #174 (Edited)
More update on the fuel system:

I had a spare fuel rail but ended up just "going for it" and cutting the ends off my good ones....





The whole objective was to get reliable connections, get rid of all the pesky hose clamps and barbs, and have a clean look. So I cut the ends off the rails and had a good friend that knew how to weld, weld me on some -6an fittings. In order to join the 2 rails together, I just used a Y fitting. Right before the Y coming from the main feed line, I plumbed in a fuel pressure gauge port so I can mess with my fuel pressure. Once you find the sweet spot your car likes, the gauge isn't necessary (and in my case I bought a crappy one just for this purpose and it leaked out the front right away). I used my actual testing gauge to get the pressure correct. Mine seemed to like it rright around 37-38psi.

This was the first go around with welding on the fuel rail and I didn't take a final picture. Sorry guys.
But we welded one side and the brazing got too hot and leaked. So we ended up welding both sides just fine. You get the idea





I made 2 braided lines after this and joined them with a Y fitting mimicking the factory bridge for where the fuel rails are joined on the rear of it.




Here you can see how I had the gauge inline until it busted after a couple minutes.
Piece of crap...!!!
It was connected right on the main feed line coming up from the tank, to the beginning of the Y fitting, before the split to the rail.

.


Port fitting in-line with a plug in it. It's 1/8 NPT so i can plug the fuel tester up to it whenever

 

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Coming along great!

What's you plans to tackle the air-oil separator? That filter type will just fill with oil and make a mess in the general area.

I've been looking at finding a smaller neater alternative but I haven't come up with anything yet. Thinking about machining my own, or incorporating one into a cold air box. Plastic fabricator friend dropped off all the sheet, I just need need to make the cardboard templates then start cutting and welding. Still not sure though.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
Interesting project. I run a car in endurance races.

For anyone choosing the Bosch 044 pump, when installed with the stock fuel pressure regulator it will boost the fuel pressure in the rail about 5 PSI due to its much higher volume. This rise in rail pressure allowed me to run a slightly modified 3 liter S motor with OEM 2.5 liter engine management - I'm definitely giving up some HP but it never burned a piston or has not damaged my motor- yet. I should have larger injectors and aftermarket engine management.

With an adjustable regulator you can choose your rail pressure. Also the Bosch 044 can support way more horsepower than any of these motors can make. I chose it because its available everywhere. A smaller pump would definitely suffice and draw less amperage. Sometimes in endurance racing you want to keep the amperage draw low so you can run powerful head lamps for night racing.

Greg
I read a lot of good things about the Bosch 044 that leaned towards the Final decision. I knew I would have to fix up an adjustable regulator in order to run it. I also liked the idea of keeping an oem fuel pump type. With the mounting clamp with rubber insulator, the pump is quieter than my low pressure pump.
 

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Got some time to do some more updating..

Made my own tank straps.



I see the need for some large lightening holes to be bored in those tank straps :). Even the tank support RHS members could do with rows of lightening holes IMO. "We" are building a racing car after all :)

You can see my love of taking weight out of items with this photo of my last club car; even alloy angles ... :

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Thanks for the #s. I'm currently running a 1983 vintage FPR squished down to give me 43 psi. I guess "running" is a loose term as I haven't got the Megasquirt working yet.
If you're running a megasquirt system, this pressure regulator will be perfect for that. PM me or email me at [email protected] if you have any questions! I was blown away at how perfect this little guy fits. It's like it was meant to be
 

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Discussion Starter #179
Better shot of the surge tank and everything.
I was scared of this setup at first but, it ended up working like a top!



Break down of how the system works if you didn't know:

The gold pump mounted on the trunk frame is a low pressure pump. It pushes 5-7psi of fuel just enough to fill the surge tank.
The low pressure pump basically acts as if I had a in tank pump, pumping fuel out to the high pressure pump, except for its external in this case. I read a lot of people running this style setup and I just needed to create my own so I did a ton of research.
Without having to run a high dollar fuel cell, this was the best alternative.
The sole purpose of the surge tank is to eliminate fuel starvation at certain times since I dont have a submerged fuel pump constantly picking up fuel. the surge tank will stay full long enough to keep the high pressure to the engine supplied during more aggressive driving. I upgrade to a Volvo fuel filter so I could stick with AN fittings.



So next question in order:
How can I tell how much fuel I have?
Well me buying a fuel cell without a sending unit (rookie move not thinking), I had to improvise something. I still had my old fuel tank and everything. Took the sending unit and did some engineering.



Made 2 aluminum plates to start
One for outside of tank and one for the inside



Cut notches like the factory tank





Ground down a recess so the unit can lock into place like factory



Unit will fit almost perfect, what a score



Started making some marks, also went down to the local hardware store and found a rubber seal for the new one.



Went ahead and made a hole. Just big enough to press fit the unit down in. Literally was so tight, I had to spin the unit down into the tank while pressing it down.





Here's a picture with the sending unit all the way down.
Of course I cleaned all the debris out so don't get scared :)



The sending unit still has the factory square style big o ring around it so once it locks into the ring, it will also seal the fuel cell.



Finished project



In the end, this is how it's all set up.
The 2 aluminum circles, one is inside the tank and one is outside sandwhiching a rubber seal and a spacer (the yellow thing) I had to make all together.
 
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