Upper Timing Chain
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1,200 Posts
Yes.
Lots of pulling and push around the teeth of the sprokets.
You can join the new chain to the old chain and pul and push and jiggle.
Maybe you can give us all here a reason you are replacing the top chain.
If you are trying to remove the chain rattle at idle,it wont work.
Its the bottom chain.
Head,sump and front cover to replace it.
Robert
Lots of pulling and push around the teeth of the sprokets.
You can join the new chain to the old chain and pul and push and jiggle.
Maybe you can give us all here a reason you are replacing the top chain.
If you are trying to remove the chain rattle at idle,it wont work.
Its the bottom chain.
Head,sump and front cover to replace it.
Robert
Joined
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1,200 Posts
It is possible
I do it all the time.
Patience is required.
You will need good quality wire with a hook on the end.
It better be on by the time I get back on Monday Ken.
Can take a few minites,or maybe a few hrs.
Robert
I do it all the time.
Patience is required.
You will need good quality wire with a hook on the end.
It better be on by the time I get back on Monday Ken.
Can take a few minites,or maybe a few hrs.
Robert
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2,578 Posts
Thanks Robert!
Since it is possible, I will continue to try
The engine is scheduled to go into the car on Saturday, so we"ll see
Joined
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1,200 Posts
Im still here b4 I go on my rally.
Maybe use a coat hanger.
To all concerned.
If trying this with the engine installed and using a long piece of wire,,,disconnect the battery.
If the wire touches the batt pos terminal,,you will burn your hands.
I did that 30 years ago and learnt from it.
Looking forward to hearing you achieved the chain problem on Monday Ken.
Robert
Maybe use a coat hanger.
To all concerned.
If trying this with the engine installed and using a long piece of wire,,,disconnect the battery.
If the wire touches the batt pos terminal,,you will burn your hands.
I did that 30 years ago and learnt from it.
Looking forward to hearing you achieved the chain problem on Monday Ken.
Robert
Joined
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2,911 Posts
I have a coat hangar straightened out with a sharp bend in the end for just this purpose. Be sure both rows get on the lower pulley. It is possible for it to go on just the outer row of teeth.
Joined
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2,578 Posts
Robert,
It took a couple of hours (and I removed the tensioner to give me more room) I succeeded in getting the chain to go where it is supposed to.
Thanks to all!
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12,309 Posts
I've some DIY special tools for this job. Two hardwood dowel rods, oil soaked, used like chopsticks from above. Another long brass rod with rounded end that can be pushed down below the level of the bottom sprocket teeth, to help "guide" the new chain over the sprocket. I use a nylon string tied and melted together over a chain link on both chain ends.
The job is like robotic surgery and requires patience. When your done, be sure to drop the master link or parts into the sump because you forgot the shop rag. Then there is the Snap-On magnet on another long rod....
It helps to write "PATIENCE" on a 4x5 card in magic marker, and keep that in plain sight. DIY tools can improve after you do this a few times.
The job is like robotic surgery and requires patience. When your done, be sure to drop the master link or parts into the sump because you forgot the shop rag. Then there is the Snap-On magnet on another long rod....
It helps to write "PATIENCE" on a 4x5 card in magic marker, and keep that in plain sight. DIY tools can improve after you do this a few times.
Joined
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7,987 Posts
Replacing the upper chain
Harder is finding a good high quality chain. The aftermarket is full of cheap made chains at a high price! IWIS chains are worth the cost.
Just a long dowell or aluminum rod to push the chain to the intake side while you are pulling the excess up and out the exh side is all that is necessary. It`s an easy job.
Harder is finding a good high quality chain. The aftermarket is full of cheap made chains at a high price! IWIS chains are worth the cost.
As you question appears to have been accidentally over looked by the more knowledgeable, I will ask a question in the hope that this gets the others involved too
.Have you used a screw driver, as a listening tool, in an attempt to work out if it is the top chain or bottom chain that is causing the rattle? If it is the top chain maybe it is not adjusted tight enough.
Pete
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5,865 Posts
This is all you need to feed the upper chain in.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magne...=1542838609&sr=8-4&keywords=extendable+magnet
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magne...=1542838609&sr=8-4&keywords=extendable+magnet
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413 Posts
Yes, I have done this by tying a piece of electrical wire through the last link. Use stranded 18 - 20 gauge, seriously... something larger will fit through the chain but not be flexible enough, string is too flexible. Tie a loop the size of a penny in the free end of it. Put a slight bend in the wire, in the upward direction. The wire is stiff enough to easily pass the loop from the engine right, under the sprocket, toward the engine left. The stiffness of the wire will keep the loop from falling into the sump. Reach a coat hanger with a hook bent in it and grab the loop. Pull up the wire and grab it. You probably have a couple of inches of chain around the sprocket with most of it still on the engine right, falling on top of the sprocket. Pull some slack out of the engine right side chain. Now reach the hook in the coat hanger from the engine left over the sprocket and use it to push the chain that has fallen on top of the sprocket off of it so it falls into the sump. Of course the other end of the chain is tied off someplace! It's not that hard and grabbing the electrical wire is much easier than grabbing either the chain or string.
This sounds like a slightly loose upper chain. Here's a quick fix: 1. remove your cam cover. 2. lightly loosen (but do not remove) the chain tensioner bolt located on the carb-side of the head. 3. with the bolt lightly loosened, take a long, heavy screw driver or pry bar and use it to move the chain tensioner sproket and timing chain back and forth to check movement. 4. using the heavy screw driver as a lever, push the sproket and timing chain as far back in its travel as possible and then let go, allowing the sproket and chain to snap back into place. You'll immediately see the timing chain tension itself all along it's length. 5. tighten the tensioner sproket bolt so that the tensioner is locked in place (careful: do not over tighten!) and you're good to go.
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