Upper control arm and caster joint removal

They are not. As long as you support the spring pan (as far out as possible, like under the lower ball joint) and keep the upright upright, the upper arm and caster joint can be changed without taking the spring out. It's a little tricky, and has some risk, but I've done it a number of times.
Andrew

Yes, as Andrew said as long as your super careful you can do it. I've done it multiple times and I'm still standing.

With the car on jack stands, what I do is loosen the upper ball joint nut a few turns (don't remove it!) Then whale on the metal surrounding the taper a few times with a big hammer and the taper will pop free since it is under load from the spring. Then put your jack under the lower arm & spring pan, as far out as possible, and jack it up. Once the upper arm comes off the bump stop it is unloaded and safe to remove.

Make sure your jack isn't under something that moves or someplace that it can slip or you're going to have a really bad day...

I support the spring as far out as possible. Under the ball joint can work but once you unhook the upper arm the upright/ball joint combo gets floppy, so be careful. But if you support the pan under the spring it may not be enough leverage outward to fully release the upper arm from the rubber stop.
I use heavy wire to hold the upright in place fore/aft/in/out. Yes, be careful.
Andrew

Gubi said:

Make sure your jack isn't under something that moves or someplace that it can slip or you're going to have a really bad day...

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I've removed upper links using this procedure too. But I wouldn't use a jack to support the lower A arm; too much risk for something to slip or, if it's a hydraulic jack, for it to gradually retract. Sure, use a jack to raise the A arm, but support it with a big, rectangular block of wood, cement block (holes aligned vertically), or something similar that can't roll.

Yeah, sorry, I sort of use "jack" and "jackstand" interchangeably, not the best use of terminology.
Andrew

Nitrokid said:

I would like to replace the upper control arm and caster joint on my 72 Gt Jr. can anyone tell me if these components are under load? can I just put the front up on stands and then relieve the pressure by using a floor jack under the spring pans?

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I'd pay someone to do it and never risk the obit. It's not that expensive and I hate accidents and regrets.

I mean, let’s not overstate it. You need to be careful, but as long as you pay attention and follow the right procedure you’re not putting yourself in danger. No more so than working under a car on jack stands, anyway.

Good point on jack stands vs a hydraulic jack

Andrew said:

They are not. As long as you support the spring pan (as far out as possible, like under the lower ball joint) and keep the upright upright, the upper arm and caster joint can be changed without taking the spring out. It's a little tricky, and has some risk, but I've done it a number of times.
Andrew

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Got your instructions, thanks. One question... you refer to the upright...not sure about the term. Do you mean the knuckle?

I would remove the springs. It's much safer and it is an easy job.

The vertical piece from lower balljoint to upper, on which spindle and brakes are mounted. I think of the "knuckle" as the arm out to the tie rod. Not sure.
Really, you can have someone stand there and hold it the upright. The upper arm does nothing in terms of keeping the spring compressed.
Yes, that's certainly safest, but I would not call it easy, especially if you haven't done it before, don't have the spring compressor or very strong threaded rod, etc.
Andrew

If I never remove the front springs again it’ll be too soon

Andrew, why do you need to hold the upright assembly at the end of the arm vertical? With the lower arm supported at the pan with a jack stand there’s no load on the vertical piece. I just let it flop (gently) when I removed the upper arm. Am I missing something?

I often jack it on the ball joint proper, need to be that far out for leverage to get the upper arm off the rubber bump stop. In that case you have to keep it vertical.
Andrew

Gubi said:

I mean, let’s not overstate it. You need to be careful, but as long as you pay attention and follow the right procedure you’re not putting yourself in danger. No more so than working under a car on jack stands, anyway.

Good point on jack stands vs a hydraulic jack

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I agree, that is very good.

Andrew said:

They are not. As long as you support the spring pan (as far out as possible, like under the lower ball joint) and keep the upright upright, the upper arm and caster joint can be changed without taking the spring out. It's a little tricky, and has some risk, but I've done it a number of times.
Andrew

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Hey Andrew. Just got the upper control arm and caster joint and rod replaced on the driver side. After making sure to adjust the caster joint to The same length as the old one, is there anything else that has to be adjusted? Does the upper control arm attached to the tunnel of the inner fender just bolt in without any adjustments or shimming. The reason why I ask is that it doesn’t look like the arm is centred in the tunnel where it exits. I didn’t see any other adjustments.

If you got the standard, non-adjustable upper control arms then you just bolt them in. There's no adjustment for camber, spec is "you get what you get".

It won't be perfectly centered at the body because the caster arm moves the outer end forwards or backwards. That's what basically limits the max caster you can dial in on a 105/115, eventually that arm gets too close to the body.

Gubi said:

If you got the standard, non-adjustable upper control arms then you just bolt them in. There's no adjustment for camber, spec is "you get what you get".

It won't be perfectly centered at the body because the caster arm moves the outer end forwards or backwards. That's what basically limits the max caster you can dial in on a 105/115, eventually that arm gets too close to the body.

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Thanks man, appreciate it!