I've removed upper links using this procedure too. But I wouldn't use a jack to support the lower A arm; too much risk for something to slip or, if it's a hydraulic jack, for it to gradually retract. Sure, use a jack to raise the A arm, but support it with a big, rectangular block of wood, cement block (holes aligned vertically), or something similar that can't roll.Make sure your jack isn't under something that moves or someplace that it can slip or you're going to have a really bad day...
I'd pay someone to do it and never risk the obit. It's not that expensive and I hate accidents and regrets.I would like to replace the upper control arm and caster joint on my 72 Gt Jr. can anyone tell me if these components are under load? can I just put the front up on stands and then relieve the pressure by using a floor jack under the spring pans?
Got your instructions, thanks. One question... you refer to the upright...not sure about the term. Do you mean the knuckle?They are not. As long as you support the spring pan (as far out as possible, like under the lower ball joint) and keep the upright upright, the upper arm and caster joint can be changed without taking the spring out. It's a little tricky, and has some risk, but I've done it a number of times.
I agree, that is very good.I mean, let’s not overstate it. You need to be careful, but as long as you pay attention and follow the right procedure you’re not putting yourself in danger. No more so than working under a car on jack stands, anyway.
Good point on jack stands vs a hydraulic jack
Hey Andrew. Just got the upper control arm and caster joint and rod replaced on the driver side. After making sure to adjust the caster joint to The same length as the old one, is there anything else that has to be adjusted? Does the upper control arm attached to the tunnel of the inner fender just bolt in without any adjustments or shimming. The reason why I ask is that it doesn’t look like the arm is centred in the tunnel where it exits. I didn’t see any other adjustments.They are not. As long as you support the spring pan (as far out as possible, like under the lower ball joint) and keep the upright upright, the upper arm and caster joint can be changed without taking the spring out. It's a little tricky, and has some risk, but I've done it a number of times.
Thanks man, appreciate it!If you got the standard, non-adjustable upper control arms then you just bolt them in. There's no adjustment for camber, spec is "you get what you get".
It won't be perfectly centered at the body because the caster arm moves the outer end forwards or backwards. That's what basically limits the max caster you can dial in on a 105/115, eventually that arm gets too close to the body.