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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Iv'e been searching threads like this one: No Spark in my 84 Veloce (and all the threads linked within that one) for info about a no-spark (thus no start) condition in our '84 Spider.

I did find one bad flywheel sensor - replaced it. They now both re-test good. Cranking speed sounds good, I get good voltage at the ignition computer's large connector (IIRC, terminals 4&5) when cranking.

But no spark.

Should I see 12V at the + terminal on the coil (green/black wire) with ignition on or when cranking? Because I don't. Does this indicate a dead ignition computer? Any advice appreciated. Well, within reason, of course...

P.S. I've been searching for information about an inertia sensor. I don't find one in this car. The FI harness has a white wire with red tracer that I did not know where to connect. I studied a guy's '86 Spider and found the same wire connected to a pink/white wire that goes into the harness along the rear of the engine bay (it'd be near/under the washer reservoir). And no inertia switch on the firewall of his car either.
 

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1966-2013
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Do you by happenstance have a large white wire on the negative side of your coil?

If it's not there, the ICU won't work as that's it's power feed.


To check coil itself get yourt multimeter and check for the following: (key off)

terminal #1 (-) to terminal #15 (top of coil tower) .6 - 1.0 ohms
terminal #1 (-) to terminal #4 (+ (** NOTE: may be labelled as '2' on the coil proper)) 3 - 5k ohms

Make sure the little mastic fill plug is present and not leaking.


My 85 doesn't have an interia switch either, btw. (I think it has to do with the L-jet AFM. If it slams shut, ie: engine stalls or gets killed during a wreck, the fuel pumps shut off anyway as the flap has to deflects a certain amount for them to activate)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hmm, describe this 'mastic-filled-plug', please. This not a Bosch coil. Is that going to be a problem?

oh - yes, there is a large (I'd guess 14 or 12 gauge) white wire to the - terminal. and a white with black wire. and a yellow wire (you have to push back the black cover to see the yellow). Then there is what I assume is a shielding wire. Does that connect to ground?

Eric
 

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1966-2013
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You've got email :)

The mastic plug is a round cork basically.

Near the tower of the coil, it's where they do the oil fill then cap it during manufacture. (obviously not all coils will have it, and in fact the Bosch is one of the first that I'd seen one on)
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
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ghnl said:
Should I see 12V at the + terminal on the coil (green/black wire) with ignition on or when cranking? Because I don't.
Yes. This 14ga Green/Black wire starts at the hot side of fuse #7 and should be hot in both key on and start positions.

ghnl said:
Does this indicate a dead ignition computer?
No. There is a second 14ga Green/Black wire from the hot side of fuse #8 that powers both the ignition and fuel ECUs that is hot under the same conditions as the coil power wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's alive !!!

After lots of wire tracing & deciphering Alfa schematics I found the likely problem. I traced the green/black wires to the back of the fuse box.

1. one of the spade connectors seemed a bit loose - when I first turned the fuse box around to study the connections I noted that a 3 wire connector was crooked - leaving one of the green/black wires barely connected if at all. Since it seemed loose I decided to pull that connector block and release the spade connector so I could tighten it up.

2. As I was re-assembling the 3 wire block I realized it had previously been plugged into connections 7-8-9. (I made note of its position before pulling it.) However, Alfa's schematics and PapaJam's most excellent color-coded wire diagrams indicated it should have been plugged into connectors 6-7-8.

I decided to reinstall it into 6-7-8. Then I reconnected the battery and ran through the trouble shooting procedures again. And everything now checked out! I had 12V at the green/black + terminal on the coil. And cranking with a test spark plug hooked up proved there was now SPARK! #$&* previous owner !!

Buttoned everything up and tried starting it. It didn't start right up... I installed some new plugs and tried again. It coughed then started on the second try!

No bad sounds, no leaks, good oil pressure. My wife took it around the neighborhood (it's not registered yet...) and returned with a huge smile. She likes it!

Attached it a picture of the back of the fuse box with the connector plugged in to 6-7-8. Note there is a yellow connector a little crooked. I also snugged that one up.
 

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Big Congrats!!!! Loved the story!

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Sorry to bring this thread up again.

I had the same problems with not starting/no chimes or lights. I checked the battery, all was good. I looked at the igintion switch, everything looked OK, but did no multimeter testing.

I took down the fuse panel, and found the Green w/black stripe wire burnt. I also found the 20amp fuse in the power supply melted.

1.) Is this the only problem?
2.) Do I run a jumper wire where the break (burned section of wire) is?
3.) Is my coil in need of changing? (P/O said he changed it five years ago)

Lost in Orlando

DB9
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Don't apologize for bringing up an old thread. That is exactly what the search function is for.

I would suggest you contact PapaJam (click on his 'username' name in the reply above and then select 'send private message'). Ask him to email you a copy of his color-coded wire diagrams for your model Spider. That will make tracing wires a lot easier.

Definately repair/replace the burned section of wire. Make a neat & sturdy repair - don't just twist bare ends and slap on some tape like my DPO did. I like to use solder & shrink wrap tubing.

Obviously replace the old fuse but them keep a close watch on it. If there is another fault it may blow again. If so, you have more detective work to do.

I wouldn't rush to replace the coil until you know everything else is good and the coil tests bad.
 
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